Draping History and Art: A journey of Bhagalpuri Silk Saree
Bhagalpuri silk sarees, also known as Tussar silk sarees, are highly renowned in the Indian textile industry for their exquisite beauty and unique features. These sarees have a long and rich history that dates back many centuries. Bhagalpur, a bustling city in the eastern Indian state of Bihar, is the birthplace of these saris, which have garnered recognition worldwide for their elegance and versatility. The spirit of the local culture is aptly captured by these sarees, which are created by skilled artisans using traditional techniques that have been passed down through the years.
Image credit – HfnLife
Historical Origin
Bhagalpur, a historic city in Bihar located on the banks of the Ganga, is where Bhagalpuri silk, also known as Tussar silk sarees, first appeared. Bhagalpur has a long history that dates back to the Vedic period. Bhagalpur is mentioned in Indian epics such as the Ramayana and Mahabharata, where it is referred to as the Kingdom of Anga. The city is well-known for its distinctive silk textiles and was formerly thought to be the largest trading hub in Eastern India. Its fame for Bhagalpuri silk has earned it the moniker “Silk City.”
India’s silk industry has a long history that dates back to ancient times. Although the origins of Bhagalpuri sarees can be found in the Vedic era, this skill really took off and attracted widespread notice during the Mauryan era. The silk industry has persisted in its native form from antiquity to the present. In the past, the Bhagalpuri tussar was highly sought after abroad and was mostly utilized to manufacture stoles and home furnishings for the domestic market.
Buchanan Hamilton gave a good description of the Tussar of Bhagalpur in 1810–1811. These silks and silk products were exported, particularly to Europe, during the British Raj in the nineteenth century, at a premium price that they easily commanded. However, the craft gradually began to disappear in the years that followed due to the introduction of cheaper synthetics and parallels made in mills. For a long time, everyone forgot about it, and it nearly became extinct.
A New Life
Image Credit – Pernia’s Pop Up Shop
This craft began to find a new vitality after a long period of neglect and near extinction. In order to ensure that the Bhagalpuri sarees were prepared to compete in the market and regain the allure, attention, and high demand that they formerly enjoyed, the government and non-governmental organizations made the decision to revive this forgotten art and launched new projects.
Dastkar provided financial support in 1993 to help create the charity Berozgar Mahila Kalyan Sanstha (BMKS), which has contributed to the revival of tussar weaving in the Godda district through employment programs and technical and design assistance. The production and marketing of tussar silk items in the Bhagalpur clusters and beyond have since received backing from a number of additional organizations, weaver cooperatives, and individual investors. Due to its production and land-specific qualities, Bhagalpuri silk was granted Geographical Indication (GI) status by the Indian government in 2013.
Characteristics
Bhagalpuri Silk Saree with Bandhej Design, Image Credit – Glitter Gleam
Tussar silk, also known as Bhagalpuri silk, is one of the highest quality silks found in Mother Nature and is used to make Bhagalpuri sarees. The Bhagalpuri sarees are incredibly cozy and light. These come in a variety of colors, prints, and elaborate patterns and embroidery motifs.
Bhagalpuri sarees are typically made of silk, but because pure silk is so delicate, it cannot support heavy embroidery work. For this reason, designers have created innovative blended embroidery sarees, which add sheen and luster while being slightly thicker to support the design. Any kind of Bhagalpuri saree design can be embroidered, from hand-painted Kalamkari artwork to mirror work borders, from vivid Bandhani patterns to exquisite Zardosi embellishments.
Cultural Significance
Bhagalpuri silk sarees have cultural significance in Indian society in addition to its visual appeal. They represent tradition, heritage, and prosperity and are frequently worn at auspicious events like weddings, festivals, and religious ceremonies. These sarees are cherished relics that have been handed down from one generation to the next, representing the timeless history of Indian craftsmanship and serving as a sign of grace and refinement.
Uniqueness
The dying technique of a Bhagalpuri silk sari is what sets them apart from the regular art silk sarees on the market in the Asian nation. Traditionally vegetable dyes were used to get vibrant colours. Another fact that makes Bhagalpuri silk unique is that it is environment-friendly. A limited number of silkworms are used during the production of this silk. Due to this very reason, Bhagalpuri silk is also sometimes referred to as “peace silk”.
Method of Production
Tussar Yarn, Image Credit – MAP Academy
The production of Bhagalpur silk is done in three steps. Buying cocoons, processing them, and spinning silk yarn are all part of the initial step. Pre-weaving procedures such as dying come next. After being exposed to mordants, the tussar silk textiles are colored using vegetable extracts. Excellent results are obtained, and there is a high demand for this environmentally beneficial shade. The extracts—Harsingar, Tealeaf, Lac, Palash, Katha, Pomegranate, and Turmeric—are used in fabric dyeing, while powdered Harda and Beheda is used as a pretreatment.
Weaving Process in Loom, Image Credit – MAP Academy
Weaving and finishing the silk fabrics mark the completion of the procedure. The weaving of Tussar silk is completely traditional. The majority of the time, it is done on fly shuttle frame looms and pit looms. Tussar silk, Matka silk, Eri and Mulberry silk, and Chinese silk are among the various types of silk used in this cluster; Tussar silk is the most commonly utilized. After drying, the cloth is evenly sprayed with water, folded, and pounded with a device known as a “kundi.” These extra steps ensure that the fabric is ready to be molded into exquisitely gorgeous garments by properly setting the weave.
Designs and Motifs
The majority of Bhagalpuri sarees are hand-woven, displaying the artist’s exquisite artistry and meticulous attention to detail. With themes, patterns, and designs painstakingly woven into the cloth, every saree is a work of art in and of itself. Every component of a Bhagalpuri silk saree, whether it be the intricate paisley motifs, the checkered or striped patterns, or the delicate floral patterns, showcases the artistry and talent of the maker.
Image Credit – Banarasee
Temple Border Motif:
Wearing silk sarees with temple designs is similar to bringing a piece of sacred architecture with you. These themes, which are modeled after the elaborate architecture of South Indian temples, stand for supernatural favors and protection. One can clearly identify a temple border; its recurrent triangular and frequently layered motifs resemble the gopuram’s exquisitely detailed design as it soars upward. However, the temple pattern is employed so frequently that its subtle variations and adaptability are frequently overlooked.
Temple designs contrast with the plain colors of six yards when they are woven as a figurative relief and positioned structurally on the pallu or borders of sarees. In addition to being aesthetically pleasing, the temple border strengthens and weighs the saree’s ends, which are most likely to sustain damage, and blends in with the saree’s body through the use of warp and weft.
Elephant Motif:
Image Credit – India MART
The elephant is a common animal motif found in Bhagalpuri sarees. The motifs were meticulously hand-drawn and placed with additional designs based on the color, material, and handloom capabilities of the saree. The elephant, also known as Yanai, Hathi, or Gaja, is a representation of power, intelligence, wealth, and nobility. Elephant themes are widely used in Indian textiles, particularly because of the huge and elegant animal’s respectable status in mythology and history.
The deity of the sky, Indra, is depicted in Indian mythology riding Airavata, a white elephant. He threw his thunderbolt at the dark monsoon clouds, which he pictured as a herd of dark elephants, in the midst of the battle, forcing them to release rain, turning the Earth green. In a different tale, Queen Maha Maya gave birth to a boy who would later become the Buddha after having a dream about an elephant entering her womb. These kinds of mythological tales accurately depict how elephants were connected to fertility and rain.
Elephants were considered a symbol of riches and power, and only kings were permitted to own them in Mauryan Indian history. When Alexander’s army arrived at the frontiers of India, it was also reported that elephants scared them. The elephant was more than just a regal animal, according to the historical references found in India.
A model wearing a sari with temple border by A&T on the runway of 2014 A/W collection, Image Credit – Voice of Fashion
Reference to Pop Culture
Local Bihar artisans have received proposals from designers in the world’s largest fashion cities, such as Milan, London, and Paris, to create silk specifically for their designs. Indian designers like as Suruchi Parakh, Punit Balana, Avni Bhuva, Chaturbhuj Das, Urvashi Kaur, Payal Singhal, Architha Narayanam, Pratima Pandey, Priya Agarwal, Nilesh Parashar, and many more may be found selling clothing fashioned with the seductive Bhagalpuri silk fabric. Additionally, these sarees are easily accessible globally via all of the well-known e-commerce sites, including Mirraw, PeachMode, Amazon, Flipkart, Nalli, Saree.com, and others.
Conclusion
Bhagalpuri silk sarees are artworks that represent the artistic brilliance and cultural legacy of the Bhagalpur area; they are much more than simply clothing. Originally used just for Bhagalpuri silk sarees, this fabric is now used for bedspreads, curtains, kurtis, tops, shawls, and other items. The prevalence of Bhagalpuri silk has increased dramatically as a result of this development. The world is paying attention to Bhagalpur silk fabrics. However, beneath all the glamour, the industry also has a dark side that obscures the existence of its artisans.
