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Bangles of Tradition: The Historical Legacy of Shakha Pola

Picture of Himaghna Bandyopadhyay
Himaghna Bandyopadhyay
I am a student of masters of history at Presidency University, Kolkata, India. My area of interests includes early medieval, colonial and postcolonial history of India, particularly Bengal, as well as Socio-Religious interaction. I am currently involved in several societies and platforms both inside and outside Presidency University. My research interest includes looking at satire in nineteenth century Bengal.

Shakha Pola bangles are traditional ornaments deeply rooted in the cultural and religious heritage of Bengal, both in India and Bangladesh. These bangles, typically crafted from white conch shells (Shakha) and red coral (Pola), symbolize marital bliss and are worn by married Hindu women as a mark of their marital status. Therefore, Shakha Pola bangles are integral to Bengali wedding rituals. They are traditionally presented to the bride by her elders or in-laws before the wedding ceremonies. The white and red colours symbolize purity, fertility, and the strength of marital bonds. They are believed to bring prosperity and protect the wearer from evil spirits. Shakha and Pola are blessed by priests before being adorned, marking them as sacred and auspicious.

Historical Beginnings: The Origin Story of Shakha Pola Bangles

The origin of Shakha Pola bangles can be traced back to ancient traditions in Bengali Hindu culture, steeped in religious symbolism, regional artistry, and a deep reverence for natural materials like conch shells and coral. These ornaments represent one of the oldest forms of cultural expression, rooted in customs and rituals that intertwine mythology, social practices, and marital rites. The concept of adorning married women with auspicious jewellery dates back thousands of years in Hindu society. 

The use of white conch shells (Shakha) and red coral (Pola) is closely tied to the Hindu reverence for natural elements, which are seen as divine gifts. The white conch shell, linked to the god Vishnu, symbolizes purity and cosmic order. The sound of the conch was believed to drive away evil spirits, and its use in bangles was seen as an extension of its protective power. Red coral, representing fertility and vitality, was associated with the goddess Durga and Shakti, underscoring the belief in female strength and protection.

Collection of a Shakha Pola bangle set with modern gold embellishments

Ancient Hindu scriptures, particularly the Vedas, describe the significance of bangles, not specifically Shakha Pola, and adornments as markers of a woman’s marital status. In the Vedic period, the “Samskaras” (sacraments) included specific rituals for women that emphasized jewellery as a form of protection and blessing, particularly in marriage. The widespread use of conch shell ornaments in Bengal predates the codification of Hinduism. Archaeological evidence suggests that conch shells were integral to local communities as tools, ornaments, and objects of worship. Over time, as the greater Brahmanic tradition fused with local customs, the Shakha and Pola bangles became an indispensable part of Bengali Hindu identity.

Sacred ties of Shakha Pola

The availability of conch shells along the Bay of Bengal also made them a natural choice for crafting sacred ornaments. This practice of carving conch shells into intricate designs found its hotspots among the Bengali artisans of Murshidabad, Cuttack, and Kolkata. These artisans, known as Shankharis, developed highly sophisticated methods of carving floral, geometric, and mythological motifs into conch shell bangles. Red coral, sourced through maritime trade with South and Southeast Asia, was polished and crafted into the Pola bangles.

Embracing Heritage: The Flourishing Journey of Shakha Pola Bangles

Bengal’s coastal location facilitated trade routes connecting it to regions like Sri Lanka, Southeast Asia, and the Persian Gulf, where conch and coral were significant commodities. These exchanges likely influenced the adoption of coral in Pola bangles. Coral became prized not only for its beauty but also for its rarity, linking its use to social status and wealth.

Collection of Shakha

The early medieval period in Bengal was marked by the rise of Hinduism under the influence of regional kingdoms, such as the Pala (8th–12th century) and Sena Dynasties (11th–12th century). These rulers patronized Hindu traditions, solidifying the use of Shakha

Company Art of a Bangle Maker: Although it does not depict a Shakhari it highlights the recognition of the bangle makers by the colonial power.

Pola as marital markers among Bengali Hindu women. Religious texts and practices during this time emphasized the importance of adornments as markers of marital sanctity as well. Married women were required to wear, along with other sacred ornaments such as Sindoor, Shakha Pola which took a central role in Bengali households.

The colonial period brought both challenges and transformations to the tradition of Shakha Pola bangles. The arrival of the British East India Company in the 18th century introduced new cultural and economic dynamics that influenced their usage and production. The colonial administration’s focus on industrialization and export disrupted traditional artisan guilds. The Shankhari community, reliant on the local trade of conch shells, faced declining patronage as imported cheap goods flooded the market. To compete with industrially produced jewellery, Bengali artisans began incorporating gold, silver, and enamel work into Shakha Pola designs, transforming a ritualistic sacred ornament to a decorative one.

In the 20th century, Bengal became a centre for cultural and nationalist movements and Shakha Pola bangles emerged as symbols of cultural pride and resistance to Western influences. Bengali women continued to wear these bangles as a way to preserve their heritage amidst rapid modernization. The so-called Bengal Renaissance of the 19th century, led by figures like Rabindranath Tagore, Akshay Kumar Dutt, Michael Madhusudhan Dutt, etc revitalized interest in indigenous traditions, including Shakha Pola, as symbols of Bengali identity.

Symbolic Artistry: The Motifs and Crafting of Shakha Pola Bangles

The creation of Shakha Pola bangles is an intricate process that combines traditional craftsmanship with precise techniques and tools, honed over centuries by skilled artisans known as Shankharis. These artisans primarily work with conch shells (for Shakha) and coral (for Pola), although modern adaptations now use glass and synthetic materials for Pola bangles. Below is a detailed overview of the tools, techniques, and processes involved.

A Shakhari making Shakha

Materials Used

  1. Conch Shells (Shakha): Large, high-quality conch shells are sourced from coastal regions such as the Bay of Bengal. The shells are bleached to enhance their white colour and polished for smoothness.
  2. Coral or Alternatives (Pola): Historically, red coral was used, often imported from the Mediterranean. Today, glass, resin, or plastic alternatives are more commonly used due to coral’s scarcity.
  3. Gold and Metal Embellishments: Thin gold sheets, enamel, or gemstones may be added to enhance aesthetic appeal.

 

 

 

Tools Used:

For Shakha Bangles (Conch Shell)

  1. Saw: Used to cut the conch shell into thin circular pieces for bangle bases. Traditional tools often feature fine, serrated blades suitable for hard materials like shells.
  2. Chisels: To carve intricate designs and patterns onto the surface of the bangles. Different chisels are used for fine detailing, floral motifs, or geometric patterns.
  3. Grinding Stones: Circular or flat stones are used to smooth the edges of the bangles after cutting. These stones also help polish the shell to enhance its natural shine.
  4. Hand Drills: Used to create small perforations or patterns on the bangle for decorative purposes.
  5. Sandpaper: For shaping the bangle and ensuring smooth, comfortable surfaces.
  6. Bleaching Agents: Chemical solutions like lime or bleaching powder are used to whiten the shell and remove impurities.

For Pola Bangles (Coral or Glass)

  1. Molds: Circular Molds are used to shape molten glass or synthetic materials into bangles.
  2. Heat Furnaces: Coral or glass alternatives are melted and melded using furnaces or high-temperature tools.
  3. Polishing Tools: Rotary polishers or hand polishers ensure a glossy finish for Pola bangles.
  4. Pigments or Dyes: Bright red pigments are applied to Pola bangles made from alternative materials to replicate coral’s natural color.

Techniques Used:

  1. Shell Processing (For Shakha Bangles): Shell Selection, Cutting, Shaping, Design Carving, Polishing, Whitening
  2. Coral or Glass Processing (For Pola Bangles): Melting and Shaping, Colour Application, Surface Decoration 

The Motifs Carved:

Shakha Pola bangles often feature intricate motifs that reflect the rich artistic heritage of Bengal. These motifs carry symbolic and cultural meanings, deeply rooted in tradition and mythology. Two commonly used motifs in Shakha Pola bangles are floral motifs and geometric designs. Floral designs, including patterns of lotus, jasmine, or other local flowers, are among the most common motifs. These intricate carvings often adorn the surface of the Shakha (conch shell bangles).

Lotus: The motif of lotus transcends mere decorative and ornamentation purposes. It represents purity, prosperity, and spiritual enlightenment. Lotus also has its roots in various traditions such as Hinduism, Buddhism, Jainism, etc. In Hinduism, it not only acts as seats of various gods and goddesses such as Lakshmi, Ganesha but also symbolises beauty, fertility and eternity. In Buddhism, lotus finds its mention in the Anguttara Nikaya, where Buddha compares himself with a lotus and how it rises from muddy water. In Buddhism, lotus symbolises purity of body, speech and mind. Given all these symbolisms, the motif of lotus in Shakha Pola also denotes the emotion of strength in persistence and purity in the ability to rise above difficult circumstances.

Classical Depiction of Lotus Motif without Gold Embellishments

Modern Depiction of Lotus Motif with Gold Embellishments

Shakha Pola with Jasmine Motif

Jasmine: The motif of jasmine symbolises love, beauty, and femininity, aligning with the bangle’s role as a marital ornament. The word jasmine has been derived from the Persian word “Yasmin” which translates to “gift from God” and means fragrance. Jasmine is believed to be present from Vedic era in India so much so that its cultivation is believed to have begun around the 5th century BC onwards. Given its quality as an aphrodisiac among other qualities, Jasmine is also associated in Hindu tradition with Kama. In Hindu mythology it is believed that jasmine is one among the five flowers which constructs Kama’s arrow of love. It also symbolises simplicity, modesty and strength. Given these symbolic meanings, it is inevitable that jasmine features as a motif in the Shakha which itself is a marker of marital bliss.

 

 

Swastik motif

Swastika: The motif of swastika is one of the geometric designs of Shakha Pola. It holds great symbolic essence in India’s cultural and mythological essence. However, one must be careful to not commit the crime of identifying Indian visualisation of swastika to the corruption it underwent at the hand of the Nazis. In Indian tradition, Swastika symbolises good fortune and positive energy. Swastika can be visualised as shaped like an equal-armed cross, with each arm extending at a right angle. The term Swastika is derived from the Sanskrit root swasti which is composed of su meaning “good” and asti meaning “to prevail”. Swastika also conveys different meanings in different religious traditions of India. In Hinduism, Swastika can be understood both as a solar symbol and as the 108th symbol of Lord Vishnu. In this tradition, Swastika conveys auspiciousness and prosperity and are frequently used in rituals finding its way to households. It is also viewed as signifying infinity as it appears to be the same even when viewed from different angles. In Buddhist tradition, Swastika represents the wheel of dharma which symbolises enlightenment and spiritual growth while in Jainism Swastika is assumed as a representation of Suparshvanatha (7 out of 24 Tirthankaras) symbolising harmony and well being. Given these symbolic meanings in different traditions, swastika therefore serves as an auspicious symbol which when encrusted upon an object transforms it into a sacred entity. In this sense, the Swastika motif in Shakha Pola voices out these meanings of good luck, well being and purity. 

Cultural Continuity: Shakha Pola Bangles in Today’s Society

The making of Shakha Pola bangles is a testament to the enduring skill and artistry of Bengali craftspeople. While traditional tools like saws, chisels, and grinding stones remain vital, modern techniques and materials are increasingly blending with these methods to meet contemporary demands. Despite changes, the intricate craftsmanship and cultural significance of these bangles continue to celebrate the legacy of Bengali traditions. Today, Shakha Pola bangles have evolved into a blend of tradition and fashion. Designers incorporate gold plating, diamonds, and enamel work to appeal to modern tastes while retaining their cultural essence. These bangles continue to hold emotional and cultural significance, often passed down as heirlooms within families. They are not merely ornaments but serve as living symbols of Bengali identity, representing the continuity of traditions across generations. 

Sources:

https://brownhistory.substack.com/p/shankha-pola-bangles-a-legacy-of

https://theweddart.com/blog/bengali-wedding-bangles

https://youtu.be/2KR1GDGkgAE?si=mPHFePKWhLb_ZSPS

https://youtu.be/PiYFoLE87_8?si=uvgpCDRVkgaBM1E5

https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Chura_(bangles)

https://en.banglapedia.org/index.php?title=Shankha

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