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Woven Identity: Unraveling the Traditional Attire and Symbolic motifs of Ladakh

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vanshikasai8
Vanshika Sai is a researcher and writer driven by profound love for history, art, and heritage. With a deep passion for uncovering the stories behind different cultural traditions, her work brings the past to life, blending meticulous research with a creative touch. Whether exploring the vibrant cultural heritage of Ladakh or preserving the oral history of a Partition survivor, she wants to uncover the hushed voices of people whose stories have been overlooked or neglected in mainstream historical narratives. By approaching history with empathy, she strives to cultivate respect for different socio-cultural identities and advocate for their preservation, ensuring these narratives continue to inspire future generations.

High in the pristine valleys of Ladakh, where the snowcapped mountains seem to merge into the stark blue sky seamlessly, leaving the viewer speechless and completely in awe of its beauty. A place far from chaos, where the slow and quiet life allows you to hear your own breathing distinctly—especially if you’re not native, thanks to AMS—and where the artistic brilliance of its native people speaks volumes in terms of the interplay of sophisticated embroideries such as Zari and Koshen crafted on traditional Ladakhi attires, a craft that is a rich mélange of utility and beauty.

Situated at the crossroads of Kashmir, Tibet, and Central Asia, Ladakhi traditional attire has drawn rich influences from diverse regional cultures. Owing to the dearth of archaeological sources, the precise trajectory of the origin and evolution of Ladakhi textile traditions is shrouded in darkness. Despite this, Ladakhis have a strong conviction that the art of crafting textiles is quite ancient. Before the emergence of elaborate textile patterns, Ladakhis would wear clothes made of animal skin, bark of trees, and straw, a practice that is still prevalent in the region. Taking inspiration from the neighboring cultures, Ladakhis evolved their unique textiles as the time passed by.

Ladakhi people in traditional costume, Leh, Ladakh. (Image Courtesy: alamy)

 

Goncha: The Ladakhi Male Robes

(a) Structure and Design

The goncha, the traditional attire of Ladakh, is an epitome of Ladakh’s unique textile heritage, representing a rich mélange of utility and beauty. It is, in effect, a double-breasted calf-length coat; it is cut wide, and the extra material pulled to the back to form two pleats. (Rizvi 1996: 139). The male goncha is a loose-fitting robe that is crafted to facilitate freedom of movement, essential for the physically challenging lifestyle in Ladakh, which often incorporates more outdoor activities like herding and farming. It is conventionally made from thick wool or pashmina, providing warmth against the extremely cold and dry climate of Ladakh. The fabric is crafted in earthy tones such as brown, maroon, grey, or ochres, which are dyed with the help of natural pigments sourced from local plants and minerals.

The goncha is fixed at the waist with a belt called a skerag. The belt is often made of cloth or leather, and in certain cases, it is also embellished with intricate embroidery, which augments its beauty. The skerag helps secure the goncha in place, giving a nice fit to the attire. The front section of the robe folds over the belt, forming a pouch-like space, somewhat akin to a kangaroo’s pouch, where men store utilitarian items such as small knives, nuts, flints, or matches and religious tools like prayer beads (mala) used for chanting during the deep state of meditation. Beneath the robe, they typically wear shirts and loose, straight trousers—crafted from wool for winter and cotton for summer. The male gonchas particularly feature simpler designs, motifs, and patterns compared to the female counterparts. The common motifs include minimalistic floral designs and the symbol of endless knots, representing the interconnection of all things associated with Buddhist teachings. The embroidery is often done along the edges of the collar, sleeves, and the hem of the goncha.

Ladakhi man utilizing his robe for the utilitarian purposes. (Image Courtesy: alamy)

The Kargil Muslims, however, have a distinct style. Men typically wear the goncha made from homespun wool in its natural color, unlike the maroon-dyed version worn by the Buddhists, and it is only worn in cold weather. In regions near Kargil and parts of Nubra inhabited by Muslims, men commonly wear a long-sleeved robe called a choga, which features an open front. Typically worn over a long-sleeved, knee-length shirt (kameez in Urdu), the shirt remains visible through the robe’s opening. (Ahmed n.d.). In summer, they choose to wear an outfit similar to the popular ‘Pathan’ style: a knee-length cotton shirt paired with baggy trousers resembling salwars, and topped with a loose waistcoat. They almost always wear a knitted woolen cap on their heads. (Rizvi 1996: 141).

Long sleeved robe, choga. (Image Courtesy: sahapedia)

 

Additionally, Cunningham has provided detailed firsthand information pertaining to traditional Ladakhi robes. He articulated that:

The men of Ladák wear a cloak of woollen, thick, and warm. Round their legs, from knee to ankle, they have coarse woolen leggings, fitting tightly, or else wrapped close round the leg and secured by a garter, which is wound spirally round the leg from the ankle upwards. The garter is generally black, but sometimes red. On their heads they wear either quilted skullcaps or caps of sheepskin with the wool inside and with a large flap behind, which covers the back of the neck as well as the ears. Their boots are of felt, with soles of sheep or goat skin, which are turned up all round and sewn to the felt. The upper part of the felt boot is open to the front and is allowed to fall over, something in the manner of the boots worn in England in Charles II’s time. The lamas have red boots, and the others are mostly ornamented with small bits of colored cloth in the front. (1854: 301).

(b) Cultural Significance 

The male goncha represents the perfect blend of masculinity and pragmatism, reflecting the ruggedness and strength associated with Ladakhi men. The attire is worn both during the routine activities and special occasions, festivals, and religious ceremonies. It also features myriads of religious motifs, representing Ladakhi’s spiritual beliefs and traditions.

The type of goncha also serves as a yardstick for ascertaining status within the social hierarchy. While the rudimentary designs remain uniform across the region, the type of material and embellishments are considered indicators of the economic status of an individual in the society. Wealthier men often wear gonchas made of silk brocade, adorned with sophisticated and elegant embroidery crafted with gold and silver threads. These highly elaborate attires are mainly reserved for special occasions, signaling towards the wearer’s prosperity and opulence in the society.

 

Sulma: Weaving Identity of Ladakhi women

(a) Structure and Design

In Ladakh, women traditionally wear a full-length robe called the sulma, a garment believed to have originated locally but heavily influenced by Tibetan and Central Asian styles. It is a bit similar in structure to the male version but is more body-fitted, especially around the waist. It may also carry a more flared or flowing design, giving a more feminine and comfier look. Older women, especially those in villages, often wear an additional layer of goatskin draped over their shoulders, with the wool facing inward for warmth. (Rizvi 1996: 139)

The sulma features a round neckline, long sleeves, and a fitted bodice, with gathers (sul) at the waist. Its wide, voluminous skirt provides ease of movement, making it practical for women working in fields or at home. The robe lacks buttons and is secured at the waist with a narrow belt. Beneath the sulma, women wear a loose, long-sleeved blouse known as the greslen, which has a soft collar that folds over the neckline of the robe. The blouse’s sleeves also extend beyond those of the robe, folding into wide cuffs. In Kargil, women sometimes paired the sulma with men’s shirts, valued for their closed collar. (Ahmed n.d.)

It is mostly crafted with wool or pashmina, featuring beautiful embroidery designs and intricate motifs. Opulent fabrics like brocade or silk are often used to give a more appealing and visually striking look to the robes. Like the male goncha, the sulma is also tied at the waist with skerag. However, the female version of the belt is more embellished with sophisticated embroidery and patterns. The belt helps to accentuate or highlight the waist and provides a more structured silhouette. Female robes are also more ornately decorated with detailed embroidery using threads of gold and silver, featuring vibrant hues like bright red, green, yellow, and pink. During traditional occasions and weddings, the female robes are made of rich brocades, often adorned with sequins, or beads. In winter, women pair their robes with trousers crafted from the same nambu fabric, while in summer, they wear loose cotton trousers known as rdochaks. (ibid.)

Group of Ladakhi females in traditional attire, Goncha, Ladakh. (Image Courtesy: alamy)

 

The chuba, a more streamlined and elegant Tibetan gown that was a popular choice for semi-formal wear among Leh’s elite women, had largely disappeared by the 1990s. Instead, the goncha is now often paired with a dupatta, a light, chiffon-like scarf originally associated with the North Indian salwar-kameez ensemble, which is gracefully draped over the shoulders. The goncha is as unfamiliar to Kargil Muslim women as it is to Kashmiri or Punjabi women. In rural areas, they typically wear a loose woolen kurta—similar to the Kashmiri pheran, though less voluminous—paired with a salwar, with a shawl draped over their head and shoulders. Meanwhile, the younger, more modern women in Kargil town have largely embraced the Punjabi salwar-kameez, though they also keep their heads covered with a dupatta. (Rizvi 1996: 141).

Group of Muslim teenage girls in colorful scarf or headcloth, Kargil, Ladakh. (Image Courtesy: alamy)

 

(b) Cultural Significance

The sulma or female goncha is a distinctive part of Ladakhi women’s attire, symbolizing their connection to their roots and cultural heritage. Wearing it reinforces a sense of identity and belonging, especially in a region where traditional customs have been preserved despite outside influences.

The traditional robe also plays an imperative role in representing the social status, financial standing, and aesthetic sensibilities of women in Ladakhi society. During weddings, female goncha assumes more significance, as it is often worn with a matching headpiece called a perak. This combination of the traditional robes (sulma) and perak is a symbol of marital status, acknowledging women’s role in family and community life.

Zanskari women wearing ethnic headdresses with turquoise stones called Perak, Ladakh. (Image Courtesy: alamy)

 

Heritage in Bloom: Floral Motifs

(a) Origin 

Floral themes on traditional Ladakhi robes, particularly women’s gonchas, are profoundly ingrained in the region’s cultural, religious, and artistic heritage. These themes, including the lotus, are influenced by Tibetan Buddhism and neighboring cultures. Ladakh’s location on the Silk Road encouraged cultural contacts, importing floral motifs from Central Asia and Kashmir, which are recognized for their exquisite designs. These symbols also represent fertility, prosperity, and a connection to nature, which reflects Ladakh’s agricultural heritage. Floral designs also have aesthetic value, boosting the beauty and elegance of traditional clothes worn during festivals and events. Thus, these patterns symbolize a fusion of spiritual, cultural, and artistic influences, encapsulating Ladakh’s distinct legacy.

(b) Design and Symbolism

  • Lotus Flowers

The motif of the lotus is deeply intertwined with the religious or spiritual landscape of Ladakh, as it is one of the eight auspicious symbols in Buddhism, representing the wearer’s connection to Buddhist ideals of purity of thought and spiritual upliftment. It is often featured with symmetrical petals, embroidered along the hem, cuffs, or neckline of the robe. In the case of highly ornamented robes, they are spread all over the base of the fabric. The lotus motif is rendered in vibrant colors like red, yellow, or white, symbolizing different aspects of spiritual enlightenment.

  • Himalayan Wildflowers

Wildflowers such as edelweiss and blue poppies, indigenous to the Himalayan region, also inspire floral motifs of Ladakhi attire. These flowers are famous for their resilience in harsh conditions, making them a perfect symbol for representing the extreme conditions in terms of rugged topography and bone-chilling weather of Ladakh. These motifs are smaller and more intricate, featuring delicate patterns embroidered in contrasting colors. They often appear as repeating patterns along the borders or scattered across the fabric. These motifs eulogize the beauty of nature and the cordial relationship between humans and the natural environment, reflecting the values of the sustainable lifestyle of the Ladakhi society.

Zanskari Women wearing ethnic costumes featuring floral motifs and traditional headdress, Lamayuru, June 2017. (Image Courtesy: alamy)

 

Guardians of Tradition: Dragon Motif

(a) Origin

The dragon motif in Ladakhi traditional clothing can be traced back to the region’s strong historical and cultural ties with Tibet and Central Asia. Ladakh, located along ancient trade routes such as the Silk Road, was a hub for cultural and artistic exchanges. As Tibetan Buddhism took root in Ladakh, artistic elements like dragon motifs were incorporated into its visual and textile traditions. These symbols were often used to convey spiritual strength and divine protection, especially in ceremonial or high-status garments. Over time, although not frequently seen in everyday clothing, dragon motifs became part of specific ceremonial or artistic expressions in Ladakh, influenced by Tibetan and Central Asian designs.

(b) Design and Symbolism

The dragon motif on Ladakhi traditional dress is another significant motif that reflects the cultural, artistic, and spiritual heritage of Ladakh. This theme, connected with Tibetan Buddhism and Central Asian cultures, lends meaning and a sense of grandeur to the outfit. The dragon pattern is often stylized with exquisite embellishments, including scales, claws, and flowing bodies, representing agility and vigor. Dragons are often embroidered or weaved into prominent portions of the robes, such as the chest, back, and sleeves, with vibrant colors such as gold, red, and green, adding to their magnificent and legendary appeal. Gold distinctively represents prosperity and divine force.

The dragon is a symbol of cosmic power or strength. In Buddhist mythology, dragons are depicted as protectors of the Dharma (Buddhist beliefs and teachings), protecting precious treasures, including sacred texts and spiritual wisdom. Dragons are often depicted in Buddhist art and literature as guardians of sacred locations or as symbols of the universe’s dynamic powers.

Wearing a traditional dress with a dragon pattern is considered to provide power and protection against harmful energy. It also expresses authority and status, especially in ceremonial settings. Dragon motifs have historically been linked with nobility and the elite due to their elaborate patterns, which required experienced artisans and access to excellent materials. Wealthier Ladakhis often wear traditional robes with dragon motifs for important events like weddings or festivals to show their accumulated financial wealth and richness.

Zanskari women wearing traditional robes depicting Dragon motifs, Lamayuru, Ladakh. (Image Courtesy: alamy)

 

Fusing Tradition and Modernity

The changing trends in Ladakhi society pertaining to traditional attire reflect the broader shifts in culture, modernization, and globalization. While traditional attire such as the Goncha for men and the Sulma for women remains significant for special occasions, its daily use has declined due to the influence of Western fashion and urbanization. Modern apparel, including as trousers and T-shirts, has become more prevalent in everyday life, particularly in urban regions like Leh. Traditional clothing is currently mostly used for festivals, religious ceremonies, and cultural events. Synthetic fabrics have also gained popularity, replacing the natural materials traditionally used in Ladakhi apparel.

Concerned about the fading use of traditional attire, organizations like the Ladakh Buddhist Association (LBA) and the Women’s Alliance took steps to revive cultural practices by encouraging the mandatory wearing of traditional clothes at religious festivals and public events across Ladakh. Although these efforts lacked formal enforcement, they reflected a strong push to preserve Ladakhi heritage. In 2019, the newly established Union Territory of Ladakh institutionalized this sentiment by requiring government employees to don traditional Ladakhi attire on a specific day each week. (Ahmed n.d.)

Though traditional attire has been preserved through formal cultural, social, and religious gatherings, it is the renewed sense of pride in traditional cultural or textile heritage that has truly sparked its revival. As Ladakh has increased in popularity as a tourist destination, traditional dress has become more common to meet visitors’ need for cultural authenticity. This has resulted in the commercialization of traditional clothing, which now feature brighter colors and more detailed designs to attract tourists. The desire for these clothes has created economic opportunities for local craftspeople. With greater exposure to global fashion trends through media and education, younger generations are adopting Western styles, especially for professional and formal occasions. However, digital platforms have also helped showcase Ladakhi culture, fostering a renewed interest in traditional dress.

Reviving the Ladakhi textile tradition. (Image Courtesy: Pinterest)

 

Conclusion

The traditional robes of Ladakh, decorated with motifs like the lotus and Himalayan wildflowers, are not just garments but symbols of the region’s rich cultural and spiritual heritage. The lotus, symbolizing purity and spiritual awakening, reflects the Ladakhi people’s profound connection to Buddhist teachings and the pursuit of enlightenment. Meanwhile, the Himalayan wildflowers, with their resilience and beauty, celebrate the harsh yet thriving natural environment of Ladakh, representing the endurance and harmony between the people and their land. Together, these motifs on the goncha and other traditional robes capture the essence of Ladakhi life, intertwining spirituality, nature, and identity. As Ladakh continues to evolve, these motifs remain a timeless reminder of the region’s enduring traditions and the deep connection between its people, their culture, and the land they inhabit.

 

References

Cunningham, A. (1854). Ladák, Physical, Statistical, and Historical.

Rizvi, J. (1996). Ladakh. Oxford University Press, USA

Ahmed, M. (n.d.). Ladakhi Dress and Costume. [online] Sahapedia. Available at: https://www.sahapedia.org/ladakhi-dress-and-costume

 

 

 

 

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