Fading Imprints: Reviving the Timeless Art of Chaapa Work in Bihar

Image Credit- Heritagetimes

The Chappa print, a traditional cloth in the heart of Bihar, has great cultural significance, especially for Muslim weddings. Chaapa, a uniquely created print, is a silver foil design that is embossed onto fabric using adhesive and special wooden blocks. Craftspeople carefully maintain this centuries-old custom. Artists highlight how resilient Chappa prints are, even though they can fade after washing. These artisans create an art form that endures and keeps its unique shine by working with chemicals and complex patterns. The craft is well-liked by Bihari communities all throughout the world, not only in Bihar.

Tracing the roots

The word “chaapa” is derived from the word “chaap,” which in English means “print.” The block print method, which has been used for millennia, is used in Chaapa work. It is unclear, although, exactly when Chaapa work first appeared.

Variety of Chaapa Products on display at a shop in Bihar (Image credit-Heritagetimes)

According to one theory, the roots of Chaapa are linked to past migrations, maybe brought about by elites who fled Delhi and Lucknow during the invasions of Ahmad Shah Abdali and Nadir Shah. Regardless of geographical location, this cultural interchange has produced a craft that is today associated with Bihari Muslim identity. This opinion of migratory origin however is not supported by the fact that the Chaapa tradition is essentially nonexistent in the Delhi and Lucknow regions.

Another opinion put out by Umar Ashraf, a history enthusiast from Patna, holds that this tradition originated in the Magadha region of Bihar because it is so evident among the Muslims there.

Muslim households had a long-standing custom of only wearing printed clothing at wedding ceremonies. People have preserved the sanctity of hand-printed clothing for special events like weddings, even though the trend of wearing printed clothing became commonplace over time due to the new fashion.

Chaapa’s work was first mentioned in writing at the start of the nineteenth century. Sometime between 1811 and 1812, Dr. Francis Buchanan, who had arrived in India while working for the East India Company, wrote an article about the skill of Chappa printing in his magazine. In addition to Gaya, Buchanan had traveled to other areas in Bihar. He talks about how crucial it is for families to support this art.

Bridal Chaapa Sarees (Image Credit- Facebook)

Significance and Popularity

Chaapa Dupatta (Image Credit- Instagram, Gul-i-Chaap)

The Muslim community in Bihar, particularly those from the Magadha region in the southern part of the state, customarily wears Chhapa clothing to weddings. The bride dons the garments that the groom’s family sends her on the day of Nikkah. This dress became a customary part of the nikah ritual.

Despite its cultural significance, Chaapa attire’s longevity is under question. The adhesive used in this printing has a really unpleasant smell, making it difficult to wear for long hours. Also after one or two washings, the aluminum foil entirely comes off, and the printing is just temporary. It is difficult to keep up. Some people get it printed again after the print is removed.

Although the sari is the most popular Chaapa garment, almost any fabric can be used for the skill. As a result, its forms vary depending on the situation and the individual’s preferences. Also in high demand are Chaapa dupatta, shalwar kameez, gharara, pillowcases, and even ‘Dulaai’, a kind of blanket composed of two or three layers of fabric.

Hands behind the craft: Artisans and Craftsmen

The Chhapa Karigars, like their patrons, are predominantly Muslims and members of the Rangrez (dyer) caste, which is classified as an Economically Backward Class (EBC) group in Bihar. According to the Bihar government’s most recent caste survey, there are an estimated 43,347 of them.

Image credit- ruralindiaonline.org

The artisans typically work in this occupation for a few months, particularly during the busiest wedding season. Chaapa work comes to a halt following the three-four months of the wedding season, and craftspeople search for alternative employment. They spend the remainder of the year working as construction laborers, plumbers, or electricians in the unorganized labor sector.

The workers in this industry have sustained over the years because of their love for the craft. The seasonal nature of the industry does not allow them to rely solely on this work as their means of livelihood. When asked, the craftspeople say they don’t want to teach their next generation this unsustainable craft.  

“ Hum pagal nahi hai hain jo chahenge ki mere bete is line mein aayein.” One of the artisans said in an interview to Outlook. 

Tools and Techniques of crafting:

Wooden Blocks used in Chaapa Print (Image Credit-ruralindiaonline.org)

The highlight of the Chaapa show is ‘tabak’, a thin aluminum foil that, when imprinted on cloth, adds a festive aspect to sarees, shararas, lehengas, and other women’s clothing. It is so fine that it starts fluttering with the slightest breeze. Aluminium wasn’t always the first option. Because the craft was originally intended for the elite classes, the tabak was occasionally crafted of silver, copper, and even gold. These precious metal foils are no longer utilized, and aluminum has replaced them.

The artisan begins the process by rubbing his left palm with adhesive that is stored in a tin container. He rotates the wooden mold on his palm to absorb the glue when his palm is entirely covered in it, and then he stamps the sticky mold onto the fabric. He works quickly, carefully removing a foil from beneath a paperweight that holds the wafer-thin sheets in place, and then he applies it to the stamped area, using adhesive to make the foil adhere to the block’s design. A cushioned cloth is used to press the foil down on the cloth until it is completely adhered.

It is a delicate procedure that is completed quickly, and a gleaming design appears on the fabric in a matter of seconds. For the adhesive to thoroughly cure and the foil to adhere permanently, the freshly completed Chaapa cloth is left in the sun for at least an hour. This procedure is repeated by the karigar, which works nonstop. 

Traditional red and green Chaapa (Image Credit- Facebook)

Red and green, which were considered “bridal colors,” were the only fabric colors available for Chaapa in the past. However, they now come in a variety of hues, such as pink, violet, blue, yellow, and so forth.

Newer pink and purple colors in Chaapa

Originally produced in the same workshops as printing, the Tabak is now only produced in a few locations, Patna being one of them, because of low demand. In a similar vein, Benaras produces the wooden blocks with the embossed design, which the craftspeople purchase and utilize in their workshops.

In certain places, a mesh stencil used for screen printing has gradually taken the place of the wooden carved block. Although it is more accurate and well-organized, the screen-printed Chaapa strongly resembles the block print piece. Although it requires less work, it does not have the handcrafted appearance that distinguishes the traditional blockwork Chaapa.

Symbols of Tradition: Motifs Employed

There is not much research done on the usage of different motifs in the Chaapa work and the history behind it. It is only after careful observation of the prints available that one can study the motifs.  Since the craft caters majorly to the muslim community, animate motifs including animals and human figures are avoided as their usage is prohibited in Islam. The printing is done on wooden blocks, which are typically etched with delicate designs of flower petals, other floral themes, and some geometric patterns.

• Floral Patterns:

The floral motif is the most prevalent. The Chaapa piece makes considerable use of various flowers, such as marigolds and roses. They are employed for aesthetic purposes. These designs are influenced by Mughal art, which placed a strong emphasis on intricate flower representations, and are influenced by the local flora. Different flower patterns are combined to create different designs. For instance, there may be prints of a single flower throughout the cloth or a pattern of flowers and leaves with a distinct border design.

Floral Prints (Image Credit-Geo.tv)

• Geometric Designs:

The Chaapa artists commonly employ geometric patterns that are symmetrical and repeating, either alone or in conjunction with paisley and floral themes. It draws attention to the ancient craftspeople’ accuracy and mathematical knowledge. These designs are ageless and frequently come from Islamic art influences. 

Geometric Print (Image Credit-Geo.tv)

Edge of Extinction or Hope for Revival?

Paisley Print Border Designs (Image Credit-Geo.tv)

To prevent this craft from going extinct and to support its growth, Bihar’s Chief Minister Nitish Kumar established the Rangrez Artisan Development Committee. On September 17, 2019, the committee was formally established with the goal of empowering block printing experts to become self-sufficient. However, because of red-tapism, the committee is not yet operational. 

Chappa prints are more than just a wedding tradition as they traverse the complexity of the contemporary world; they represent a rich legacy that combines artistry, tradition, and flexibility. Chappa is a symbol of tenacity, tying generations together through the ties of tradition as Bihar works to preserve and promote this cultural treasure. Chaapa’s timeless appeal, which stems from their craftsmanship and cultural character, gives optimism for their continued relevance.

Sources:

• https://www.theculturegully.in/post/the-resilience-and-revival-of-bihar-s-traditional-textile-crafts-chaapa-and-bawan-buti-sarees
• https://ruralindiaonline.org/en/articles/bihars-chhapa-artisans-wafer-thin-margins/ 
• https://www.awazthevoice.in/lifestyle-news/chaapa-a-traditional-bihaari-couture-7613.html 
• https://dnn24.com/chappa-prints-in-bihari-muslim-weddings-hand-block-printing 
• https://www.heritagetimes.in/behari-chaapa-a-timeless-cultural-dress-which-refuses-to-retire 
• https://www.outlookindia.com/national/india-news-woven-with-love-chaapa-the-unique-wedding-fashion-of-bihari-muslims-news-400470