Threads of Red and Black woven with culture: Toda Embroidery

Have you ever wondered how similar but varying the Art of Embroidery is? India is a land of diverse cultures and traditions, with textiles, workmanship, and embroidery being no exception. Each state in our country has its own set of textiles, designs, and motifs that align with the region and tradition. The Toda Embroidery has a special space in Tamil Nadu being part of its culture and history.

When you travel across Ooty, one cannot resist but notice the differently made small huts, known as Mundhs, the traditional settlement of Todas. The Toda Embroidery, locally known as ‘Pukhoor‘, which means flower, is a type of embroidery, created specially by the women of Nilgiri hills. What is even more fascinating is the finish-work of the embroidery, that it could be mistaken for a woven cloth.

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The name Toda embroidery is taken from the name of the tribe, it originated from – ‘ The Todas‘. This tribe is the descendants of the Dravidian tribe, who have migrated and settled in different parts of the world. Majority of them have settled in Tamil Nadu, living in the Nilgiris. This Tribe has been settled in Tamil Nadu for over 3500 years and has taken pride in Tamil Nadu’s unique art form- Toda Embroidery. The women of Toda community are oppressed and follow strict customs and traditions. The Toda embroidery is one such tradition, that has been followed by the women of this community, inspired by nature and folk tales

Concept to Creation: The Making

The uniqueness of Toda embroidery lies in its sewing pattern. Unlike other common types of embroidery where thread is stitched onto fabric using a frame to create patterns, this technique is different. The threads of the fabric, known as warp and weft, are carefully counted, and the reverse-stitch method is used. The embroidery is done so precisely, following the thread count, that it appears machine-made, with no rough edges on the back. What’s even more impressive is that no frame is used, yet the women, without any formal technical training, achieve such incredible accuracy and detail. This embroidery is mainly done on coarse cotton fabric, usually white or beige. The motifs are made using Red and Black threads.

Design and Motifs

• Huts : Also known as ‘ Dough’ motifs, that resemble small huts, resembling the traditional settlements of Toda tribes. This embroidery draws connection between the tribe and its natural heritage and landscape. The huts in Toda embroidery are often placed in repetitive sequences, adding to the intricate and striking appearance of the designs.
  

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• Booth Puhur : a unique combination of heart-shaped designs and dots. The heart-shaped motifs symbolize warmth and affection, while the dots add a sense of balance and rhythm to the overall design. This combination is often woven with precision, creating a visually appealing and meaningful pattern. The artistry behind Booth Puhur reflects the Toda tribe’s deep connection to their culture, where every design carries symbolic significance.

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• Esh Puhur : a pattern that shows arrow shaped designs.  These sharp, geometric motifs symbolize direction, movement, and focus, reflecting the dynamic energy of the Toda culture. The arrow shapes are meticulously embroidered, often aligned in a repeating sequence, creating a striking visual effect. The simplicity of the arrow design, combined with its bold form, adds both elegance and symbolism of  Toda culture,

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• Kose Puhur : pattern combines diamond and cross-shaped designs, creating a balanced and symmetrical motif. The diamond shape symbolizes protection and strength, while the cross represents unity and interconnectedness. This intricate combination is carefully stitched, often forming repeating geometric patterns that highlight the craftsmanship of the embroidery. The Kose Puhur design is both decorative and symbolic, adding depth to the cultural narratives embedded in Toda embroidery.

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• Pish Puhur : is a pattern features prominent cross-shaped motifs. These crosses symbolize unity, balance, and the interconnectedness of life. The design is often arranged in repeating patterns, creating a harmonious and visually engaging effect. Each cross is meticulously stitched, highlighting the craftsmanship involved in the embroidery. The Pish Puhur motif adds depth to Toda textiles, serving not only as a decorative element but also as a representation of the cultural values and beliefs of the Toda community

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• Thur Puhur : is a pattern characterized by distinctive ‘W’ shaped designs. These motifs often symbolize water, fertility, and the natural flow of life. The repeating ‘W’ shapes create a rhythmic pattern that adds movement and energy to the textile. Each design carefully embroidered, showcasing the artisan’s skill and attention to detail.

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Present day status of Toda Embroidery

The Government of India has given the Toda Embroidery, a Geographical Indicator tag, that has helped it gain widespread recognition. It is undoubtedly one of the ancient and rare art forms to exist. Now this art form has spread out from traditional textiles, to bags, jackets, purses, and necklaces.

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The recent slow fashion movement has helped Toda Embroidery gain a wider audience. It is truly fascinating how, the art form has come far from traditional clothes, to adorn new styles of clothing.