Zari Zardozi is an intricate art form of embroidery that holds a unique style and place in the textile history of India. It originates from the Persian words, Zari (gold), and Zardozi (gold sewing). The art form sits on the epitome of craftsmanship and textures. We can trace its history all the way from the courts of the Mughals, as it has thrived in different parts of India, especially in Delhi. From the legacy of the Mughals, this exquisite art continues to grow and thrive in contemporary times.

Source: The Indian Couture Blog

History of Zari Zardozi

Zari Zardozi has a history from ancient Persia, where skilled artists practiced this unique art form, adorning the garments of the courtesans with silver threadwork and gold. These artisans travelled from Persia to the Mughal Courts during the period of Emperor Akbar, who was known for his patronage of art, and music and introduced Zardozi to the royals. The Mughal Emperors were known for their lavish luxury and fine clothes. Zari zardozi became an important symbol of their royal attire – from robes, and turbans to ceremonies.

Eventually, Delhi became the hub for the thriving Zari Zardozi, which became royalty for the Mughals. The artisans were known as ‘Zardozi’ and were employed in the courtroom of the Mughals to make perfectly fine and elegant garments for the emperor and his royal court. The embroidery was a mix of rich gold, pearls, precious stones, silver threads, wealth, power, and rule. Zardozi was also used in furnishings, accessories, and textiles for religious purposes, making this art a unique, one of its kind craft.

Source: Freepik

Zari Zardozi’s Craftsmanship 

The craftsmanship for Zari requires elaborate and detailed technique – with patience, skill, and precise use of threads. Zari embroidery was made on velvet, metallic threads, silver, semi-precious stones, and sequins to give a unique three-dimensional look to it. The motifs used in the embroidery are inspired by the Mughal’s architecture and art – the use of patterns, designs of flora and fauna, and paisleys.

• Floral and Foliage Motifs are inspired by flowers and nature, leaves, trees, and vines. Among them, jasmine, marigold, and lotus are popular especially in Zari embroidery as it represents auspiciousness and beauty. This form represents style blending with Persian and Indian artists.
• Geometric Patterns are often incorporated in Zardozi embroidery which was part of Islamic Art. These are represented in the form of shapes, designs, and a balance of symmetry. They are mostly used in the borders of embroidery. Zari Zardozi depicts birds and animals such as peacocks, and parrots, as well as horses and elephants. They symbolise power, majesty, and grace in embroidery.

Source: Freepik

• Kairi Motif is one of the iconic designs of textiles, they are also called the ‘Paisley’ motif, originally called ‘boteh’ which means life and fertility. It is a tear-shaped craft from the early days of the Mughal period.
• From the Mughal period, the architectural motifs have also been incorporated in Zari Zardozi with elements like domes, and arches in designs. Representing the royalty of the Mughal palace and monuments. 

Source: Google Art and Culture

The creation of Zari is labour-intensive work. The process begins on a fabric where it is drawn, then later stretched by using a wooden frame known as ‘Khaat’. Artisans sew the fabric using a special needle called ‘Aari’ for designing the embroidery with metallic threads and touch. 

Source: Freepik

The craft is a long process and it cannot allow the slightest mistake to lead to the ruining of the entire fabric. That is the reason many artisans require years of training to muster the confidence, right technique, and skills before working on the embroidery. Even with the advent of machines, handmade Zari zardozi is preferred and it continues its superiority over other machines. 

Zari Zardozi and it’s unique touch with Delhi

Today, Zari Zardozi is used for a wide range of garments and has evolved to provide its uniqueness to modern fashion as well. Its wide range from Sarees, bridal wear, Lehenga, and also outfits like jackets. This versatility allows the craft to flourish and be adept with modernity, keeping its history, and traditions intact.

Source: The Tribune

Markets in Delhi such as Chandni Chowk, South Extensions, and Lajpat Nagar are quite famous for their beautiful Zari garments. These places hold a special blend of history and contemporary touch to a variety of people, festivities, and occasions. Zari remains the sought-after dress for bridals, as it is the choice for embroidered Lehengas and Sarees to show its beautiful texture, styles, and fabric.

Source: Freepik

Zari Zardozi’s role in the lives of Artisans

Zari has been deeply associated with the lives of artisans, many of whom have been working on this craft for ages and passing it on to generations. However, just like any craft, it too faces the challenge of the rise of machine embroidery, and copy production that has affected the livelihood of the artisans.

Zari Zardozi remains a mystic craft for its unique embroidery. It is a symbol of Delhi’s rich heritage, culture and art. While the craft continues to grow all around the globe, it is still facing the demand to meet the needs of the modern world. Whether adorning a bride, a festival, or an occasion – Zari is a timeless creation of an artisan that is a part of the culture. Delhiites have embraced the golden thread with its history, as its legacy shines with the evolution of fashion in India.