Part of a privately owned complete album of 31 miniatures paintings (sold through Bonhams Auction House, London, New Bond Street under the category of Islamic & Indian Art)
Ghulam Ali Khan was a master from the 19th century at the Company School. He had a talent for combining traditional Mughal details with European one-point linear perspective. In his architectural study he brings the viewer into a dramatic telescoping arcade that creates a strong illusion of deep space. The front part of the painting welcomes us with sandstone-red washes, where soft shading shows the heavy sculptural weight of big arches. As we look deeper into the painting the colors change to marble white and soft grey tones with small crimson flower patterns added. With ink lines and clear watercolor layers Khan shows great structure and includes small figures like a rider and an elephant on the center path to give us a sense of the height of the big arches and vaults in comparison to human height.
This amazing scene shows Old Delhis Chhatta Chowk or "Covered Bazaar " located just behind the Lahori Gate inside the Red Fort. Unlike open-air markets of that time this special roofed walkway was originally named Bazaar-i-Musaqaf, which was inspired by a covered bazaar Emperor Shah Jahan saw in Peshawar around 1646. Shah Jahan liked the idea. Sent his construction boss, Makramat Khan to build a similar market with thirty-two arched shops on two levels. At its best it was an imperial area that sold expensive silks, fine brocades, shining jewels and valuable stones for the royal family. Even though changes in the century blocked the arches and made the colorful ceilings less bright, work is now being done to bring new life to this important Mughal treasure.
In this artform, Ghulam Ali Khan took traditional Mughal architecture and completely mixed it with European one-point perspective. It honestly just sucks your eyes right into this deep, dramatic tunnel. You start in the foreground with these heavy, red sandstone arches, and then you get pulled all the way back into the bright white marble section with those tiny crimson flower patterns.
To me, this painting isn't just an architectural sketch. It represents the absolute scale and power of the Mughal empire right here in our city. Khan threw in those tiny figures—the guy on the horse, the elephant in the middle—specifically to show how massive these vaults actually are compared to a normal person. It's meant to make you feel a bit small and in awe of the construction.
What I really take away from this is the living history of Chhatta Chowk. This is the famous covered bazaar right behind the Lahori Gate at the Red Fort. The story goes that Emperor Shah Jahan saw a similar market in Peshawar and just decided he had to have his own version built. Back in its prime, this was basically the ultimate luxury mall where the royal family bought their expensive silks and jewels. Even though time hasn't been super kind to the original bright ceilings over the years, seeing this painting reminds me of what an absolute treasure we have sitting right in the middle of Delhi. It’s a perfect snapshot of a golden era before everything changed.
Share
By: Kshitij Lariwal
In Ghulam Ali Khan’s exquisite painting "The Chhutta within the Lahore Gate of Delhi", the architectural painting is about composition of depth, light, and perspective. The natural attraction toward the interior space due to the long archway results in a fascinating impression of space inspired by European perspective but maintaining the essence of Mughal paintings. I particularly like the transition from warm colors of sandstone to white marbles, which adds authenticity and harmony to the image. The miniature people on horseback and elephant make the viewer feel how majestic the building is. Ghulam Ali Khan does not just paint the Chhatta Chowk but glorifies its majesty and elegance, as well as the trading traditions of Mughal Delhi.
