The main essence of the city Kolkata lies in its culture and heritage. One can always witness the amalgamation of different cultures and traditions in the heart of Kolkata and that is why Kolkata is popularly known as the cultural capital of India. The city very remarkably bore marks of various communities like Jewish, Chinese and many more. In the same way, a nawabi culture developed in the city, in the locality of Metiabruz under the patronage of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, who was the last ruler of Awadh. Metiabruz, meaning mud-tower stands as a fine example of this fusion and is commonly referred to as the “mini Lucknow” of Kolkata (then Calcutta), signifying a blend of history, cuisine and traditions.
Introduction: The coming of the Nawab to Calcutta
Wajid Ali Shah was the last king of Awadh, ruling from 1847 to 1856. Awadh had always been a prosperous kingdom, gaining prominence after the fall of the Mughals. The nawabs of Awadh shifted their capital from Faizabad to Lucknow and built the city gloriously with monuments and Nawabi traditions. Under the patronage of Wajid Ali, arts and literature majorly flourished, making Awadh the cultural and intellectual hub of that time. But as time passed, the British influence on India became stronger which ultimately led to the annexation of Awadh by the East India Company on 11th February,1856 on pretext of misgovernance. Shocked and heartbroken, the deposed Nawab left Lucknow to meet Queen Victoria to inform about his grievance. But on his way, the Nawab fell sick due to the hot and humid weather, taking a stop in Calcutta at Bichali ghat. He was advised to discontinue the long voyage and so his mother and other companions left for England. Wajid Ali was provided a suitable accommodation in the Garden Reach area in the southern part of the city.
Exile Years
After a year, when the Sepoy Mutiny of 1857 broke out where Indian men revolted against the British and Lucknow was one of the main centers, where the revolt was led by his begum Hazrat Mahal and her son Birjis Qadr was installed to the throne. The British feared that in Calcutta, Wajid Ali might instigate these activities in ousting the British and so they decided to imprison the Nawab in Fort William. He was released after two years of being in isolation but with certain clauses. He was allowed to live but in exile, restricting his return to his beloved kingdom of Awadh. Apart from this, in exchange for the kingdom he was offered a pension of 1 lakh every month. Left with no choice, Wajid Ali settled in Metiabruz for the rest of his life. Wajid Ali then decided to carve out a imitation of the city in this very place which led to the making of a mini-Lucknow in the heart of Calcutta.
Metiabruz: A miniature of Awadhi Legacy
The Nawab after settling down in Metiabruz started to build this place from the scratch where many of his loyal subjects from Lucknow flocked to his exiled residence. For the next thirty years, there was a continuous influx of musicians, poets, artists, cooks and even “paanwalas” who were the best of Lucknow, contributing to the development of Metiabruz as the new center of culture and arts. Wajid Ali received three houses from the British Government but with time he went on to construct several more houses like the Qasrul Baiza ,Noor Manzil, Adalat Manzil, accompanying it with lawns and magnificent gardens. In accordance with the architectural pattern of Awadh, he built several mosques and imambaras with domes and arched gateways. The Sibtainabad Imambara and Shahi Masjid(a private mosque) were the prominent among them.
Another such building was the Parikahana, inspired by the Temple of winds of Athens, was the place where the Nawab set up gatherings of musicians, poets and dancers. The king’s zoo was another innovative creation of Wajid Ali. The zoo housed tigers ,leopards, reptiles and exotic birds from different parts of the world. Apart from architectural contribution, Wajid Ali being a patron of arts massively transformed the cultural atmosphere of Calcutta incorporating new things. Art forms such as “Thumri” and “Kathak” were popularized in this city under Wajid Ali, leading to Calcutta’s confrontation with the classical genre.
Bengal at that time somewhat lacked the artistic skill and had limited idea about the concept of tailoring. Wajid Ali introduced Hindustani darjees or tailors, excelling in Lucknowi embroidery. The rise of the tailoring industry made it a commercial hub where the rich zamindars of Bengal were among the consumers. Kite making was another such Awadhi import in this regard.
Being an ardent patron of theatre, he organized such staging of plays which he used to do back in Lucknow, turning Calcutta into a vibrant hub of Hindustani theatre, dance and music. Apart from this, the nawab would often host soirees, inviting nouveau rich Bengali zamindars and well known personalities of Bengal at that time, bridging the gap between these cultures. Wajid Ali’s stay in Metiabruz also contributed to the introduction of religious festivals such as Muharram and Eid, where the entire area would be lit up with illustrious street lighting. Last but not the least, the most celebrated and popular contribution of the nawab to Calcutta was the iconic Kolkata Biryani. During his exile years, there arose a sort of mutton shortages which led to the introduction of potato(aloo) in Biryani, a distinctive feature which is not found in Biryanis of other states. This iconic innovation is a landmark in the culinary legacy of the city.
The present state of Metiabruz
The death of Wajid Ali in 1887 marked an end to this rich cultural atmosphere that was taking shape in the suburban region of the city. The British Government demolished almost all of the structures as much as they could. Later, a great deal of the land was handed down to real estate owners for construction projects. Gradual urbanization of the city led to the fading away of the legacy of the bygone era. Some religious structures and imambaras survive today such as the Sibtainabad Imambara and so on. Other than his, the innovations brought by him is still present and is being endorsed by the residents. Efforts are being taken to preserve this Nawabi legacy by conducting heritage walks, through social media platforms and restoration programs are equally undertaken.
Conclusion
The present city of Kolkata with its recognition of being a center of rich cultural heritage owes much to Wajid Ali Shah who left a significant mark in field of dance, music and culinary culture. From its “aloo” Biryani to the “paanwalas” of Metiabruz , one can experience the soul of Lucknow, implanted by the exiled king of Awadh in the 19th century. The area of Metiabruz is a living illustration of the resilience, creativity and cultural hybridity.
References
1.Metiabruz: The Fascinating Story Of “Mini Lucknow” In Kolkata. Accessed on August 14,2025. https://nrivision.com/metiabruz-the-fascinating-story-of-mini-lucknow-in-kolkata/8129/
2.Ishqnama, or Why I Love Wajid Ali Shah. Accessed on August 14,2025. https://indigenousweb.com/blog/wajid-ali-shah-kolkata-lucknow/
3.LITTLE “AWADH” IN KOLKATA. Accessed on August on 15,2025.https://astoundingbengal.blogspot.com/2015/01/little-awadh-in-kolkata.html
4.Exploring Metiabruz — Kolkata’s mini-Lucknow. Accessed on August 15,2025. https://www.telegraphindia.com/my-kolkata/places/exploring-metiabruz-kolkatas-mini-lucknow/cid/1941416
5.Wajid Ali Shah. Accessed on August 14,2025. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wajid_Ali_Shah.