The Story of Kashmiri Pashmina: From the Heart of Kashmir to the World’s Wardrobes

In the snow-capped valleys of Kashmir, where the winter chill seeps deep into the bones, a remarkable piece of art has been crafted for centuries—a shawl that captures the essence of the region’s spirit, craftsmanship, and rich cultural heritage. The Kashmiri Pashmina shawl is not merely a luxurious fabric but a classic symbol of tradition, warmth, and elegance. Made from the soft wool of the Changthangi goat, each Pashmina shawl showcases the skill and dedication of artisans who meticulously spin, weave and embroider it by hand. Passed down through generations, the art of making Pashmina is not just a means of livelihood for many Kashmiri families but a living testimony to their resilience and resourcefulness. In a time when machine-made textiles dominate the market, the Pashmina shawl serves as a poignant reminder of the beauty and significance of handmade craftsmanship. But what is it that makes this delicate fabric so desirable, and how has it managed to remain relevant for centuries? Let’s explore the intricate history and artistry behind the world-renowned Kashmiri Pashmina.

Kashmiri Pashmina Chadar (Shawl), c.1840; (Image Courtesy: Hali)

Pashmina or “soft gold” is a work of craftsmanship, renowned for transforming delicate and incredibly warm Cashmere threads into luxurious accessories. The word “Pashm,” referring to the fleece of the Changthangi goat, comes from Urdu and has its roots in Farsi, further reflecting the deep cultural connections tied to the fabric. What makes this goat, and by extension, the Pashmina, so unique is its exotic nature—found exclusively 15,000 feet above sea level in the remote terrains of Ladakh. This rarity only adds to the reverence and value of Pashmina, celebrated globally for its timeless elegance. Throughout history, it has enchanted kings, royalty, and people across the world, drawing admiration for its magical appeal and traditional grace. A symbol of luxury and heritage, Pashmina continues to enchant the world with its beauty.

Changthangi Goats; (Image Courtesy: Kashmir Times)

Tracing the Roots of Pashmina: From the Ancient Beginnings to Worldwide Adoration

The craft of making Pashmina shawls dates back to ancient times, with records suggesting that Kashmiri weavers perfected this art over 500 years ago during the reign of the Mughal emperors. Legend has it that Emperor Akbar, fascinated by the softness and warmth of the shawl, helped popularise its use in the royal courts of India. However, even before the Mughals, the people of Kashmir were already known for their skill in hand-weaving fine fabrics, and trading these exquisite pieces along ancient silk routes.

The origins of Pashmina are difficult to trace definitively, as numerous local legends offer varying accounts of its beginnings.

The history of Cashmere dates back to the 13th century when a saint Mir Ali Hamadani from the Middle East, accompanied by 700 craftsmen, travelled to the valley of Kashmir to spread the message of Islam. During his visit to Ladakh, he discovered the rare Changra goat and was captivated by the fine wool that could be combed from its coat. Impressed by the quality of the wool, he crafted a pair of socks and gifted them to the ruler of Kashmir, Sultan Qutubdin. Recognizing the potential of this exquisite material, he proposed establishing a local industry to produce fine wool, thus beginning the art of Pashmina weaving in the region. However the authenticity of this legend is still difficult to trace. Over time, Europeans, charmed by the luxurious fabric, named it “Cashmere,” a term inspired by its origin in Kashmir.

Changthangi Goats by William Daniel (c.1769 – 1837); (Image Courtesy: Pashmina)

The history of Pashmina reached its zenith during the Mughal era, a time when the textile epitomised luxury and sophistication. The tradition of presenting khilat, or “robes of honour,” was introduced by Babur in 1526. He would bestow these garments upon members of his court in recognition of their loyalty, and achievements, or as a mark of royal favour. A khilat often included a full set of clothing—turban, coat, gown, trousers, and shirts—many of which were crafted from luxurious Pashmina wool.

Following Akbar’s conquest of Kashmir in 1568, a pair of Pashmina shawls became an essential part of the khilat ceremony. This practice extended beyond the Mughal court, with contemporary rulers like the Safavids and Qajars also donning and gifting Pashmina shawls within their political spheres. 

Portrait of Abd ar-Rahim wearing a Kashmiri Shawl; (Image Courtesy: Freer Gallery of Art)

Mughal emperors like Akbar and Shah Jahan played a pivotal role in promoting Pashmina weaving in Kashmir, encouraging artisans to explore intricate patterns and vibrant colours. As a result, luxurious Pashmina shawls became synonymous with prestige and were essential components of the Mughal court’s attire. The royal connections of these exquisite shawls elevated their status, making them symbols of high fashion both in the Indian subcontinent and abroad. Emperor Akbar held such deep appreciation for the Pashmina shawl that he affectionately dubbed it “parm-narm,” which translates to “supremely soft,” highlighting its unparalleled delicacy. Designs such as Shah Pasand (the Emperor’s Choice) and Buta Mohammed Shah (Mohammed Shah’s Flower) draw their names from revered Mughal emperors. In his memoir, the Tuzk-e-Jahangiri, Emperor Jahangir fondly refers to the Pashmina wrap as his favorite garment.

Pashmina quickly became a status symbol, adorning royalty across Persia, India, and even Europe as it entered global trade. Its exceptional warmth, lightness, and intricate craftsmanship set it apart from other textiles, making it highly coveted. The time-consuming process of creating a Pashmina shawl—hand-spinning, weaving, and sometimes embroidering it with ornate designs—also contributed to its legendary status.

The opening of trade routes connecting the Indian subcontinent to Europe in the early 19th century marked a new chapter in the history of Pashmina. Pashmina shawls’ luxurious softness and sumptuous feel captivated European nobility, who developed a taste for these exotic garments. This fascination with Pashmina among European high society brought Kashmir into the global spotlight, leading to an explosion in demand and elevating Pashmina to the status of a symbol of allure and charm. For centuries, Kashmiri shawls have captivated the world, earning praise from figures as prominent as Napoleon Bonaparte. His famously lavish wife, Josephine, is said to have owned around 200 Kashmiri shawls, which Napoleon had acquired from the Turkish treasury during his Egyptian campaign. These exquisite Pashmina shawls, known as Cashmere in Europe, became a hallmark of high fashion not only across the continent but globally. Their steep price also elevated them to the level of a status symbol, reserved for those with both taste and wealth.

Empress Josephine wearing a Pashmina shawl from Kashmir;(Image Courtesy: Antoine Jean Gros. Wikimedia Commons)

Empress Joséphine took it a step further by fashioning shawls into dresses, sparking a new trend in high fashion at the beginning of the 19th century.

Depiction of shawl as a dress trend; (Image Courtesy: The Heritage Lab)

Historian Zain-ul-Abideen Rahinuma notes that when Hazrat Khadija married Prophet Muhammad (SAW) in 595 CE, among the many items she brought with her was a Kashmiri shawl.

As per the 1846 Treaty of Amritsar between the British East India Company and Dogra ruler Gulab Singh, he was required to present three Pashmina shawls to the British government annually. According to Article 10 of the Treaty, “Maharaja Gulab Singh acknowledges the supremacy of the British Government and will in token of such supremacy present annually to the British Government one horse, twelve shawl goats of approved breed (six male and six female) and three pairs of Cashmere shawls.”

Craze of Pashmina Shawls among Europeans; (Image Courtesy: The Heritage Lab)

The Art in Every Thread: Inquiring into Finer Details of Pashmina

Pashmina wool is sourced from the undercoat of the Himalayan mountain goat, found in Ladakh’s high-altitude regions. The wool is harvested in spring and summer when the goats shed their thick winter coats. The delicate undercoat, finer and softer than the outer layer, is combed out by hand using a small metal comb, a meticulous process since each goat yields only a few ounces of this precious fiber.

Once collected, the wool undergoes cleaning and processing, where it’s hand-carded to separate and align the fibers. These fibers are then spun into yarn using a spindle or spinning wheel, ensuring the highest quality and softness. After dyeing, the yarn is woven on traditional handlooms, a slow, skilled process that can take days or weeks depending on the design. Each thread is carefully woven, and artisans take great pride in crafting shawls that are soft, durable, and made to last for generations.

Artisans weaving Pashmina fibre into fabric in wooden handloom; (Image Courtesy: Pashmina)

Once the Pashmina shawl has been woven and spun, the final step is embellishment, which enhances its beauty and uniqueness. Common forms of embellishment include embroidery, kani weaving, beading, and sequins, each adding its distinctive charm to the fabric.

Embroidery is perhaps the most widespread, where decorative patterns are stitched onto the shawl using needle and thread. These designs can range from simple to highly intricate and are often created by skilled Kashmiri artisans. A remarkable example is a navy blue Pashmina shawl being intricately embroidered by hand in a remote village in Kashmir.

Kani weaving is another highly prized technique, requiring artisans to create complex patterns, from geometric shapes to floral and paisley motifs, using special wooden needles. This time-consuming method is renowned for its intricacy and is highly valued by collectors.

Chromolithograph by William Simpson (c.1823 – 1899) portraying a master weaver with his two apprentices weaving; (Image Courtesy: British Library Website)

Beading adds another dimension to the shawl, with artisans sewing beads of various sizes, shapes, and colors to create unique designs. Similarly, sequins—tiny, shiny disks—are sometimes added to give the shawl a sparkling effect, sewn individually or in artistic patterns. These embellishments elevate the shawl into a true work of art, blending tradition with meticulous craftsmanship.

Embroidery is the most prevalent embellishment on Pashmina shawls, involving the addition of decorative designs with needle and thread. The process begins with designing the embroidery pattern, which can be created on paper or digitally and then transferred onto the shawl. Next, the design is traced onto the fabric using a washable marker or chalk. The embroidery itself starts with threading a needle in the chosen color, then stitching along the traced lines, varying from simple to intricate designs based on preference. Once completed, the shawl is washed to remove any tracing marks, then dried and ironed to achieve a polished finish.

Chromolithograph by William Simpson depicting shawl makers of Kashmir; (Image Courtesy: British Library Website)

Initially, embroidered Pashmina shawls mimicked the intricate twill tapestry, with minute differences that required keen observation to detect. An embroidered shawl took a quarter of the time to create compared to kani shawls of similar complexity, making them more affordable and resulting in lower taxation. While embroidered shawls dazzled with their appearance, their faster production contributed to their rising popularity, especially as kani shawls became more elaborate and expensive.

Kani Shawl; (Image Courtesy: Pure Kashmir)

These embroidered shawls, known as “amlikar shawls,” emerged in the 18th century, reaching their peak in the mid-19th century. During this time, artisans developed a technique that allowed for two colors on either side of the shawl, called “do-runga,” meaning two-coloured. This method involved interlacing a contrasting thread through the fabric along the motifs, imitating the kani weave on the reverse side. Though the crafting of do-runga shawls continues, the use of Cashmere yarn for this technique has sadly disappeared in Kashmir since the mid-19th century, and the term is no longer recognized in contemporary Kashmir.

The Language of Motifs and Symbols: Weaving Stories into Pashmina

Pashmina shawls are much more than mere textiles; they embody a rich representation of culture and tradition, adorned with motifs and symbols that carry profound meanings. Each design tells a unique story, reflecting the heritage and creativity of the artisans behind them. From delicate floral patterns to bold geometric shapes, the motifs found in Pashmina weaving draw inspiration from nature, spirituality, and the breathtaking landscapes of Kashmir.

Pashmina shawls showcase a diverse array of designs and patterns, each with its unique charm. The most popular motifs include:

Buti: This motif features a small, singular flower design that may or may not include a root structure.

Buti Motif; (Image Courtesy: Hali)

Buta: Larger than a buti, this motif consists of multiple flowers and creates a more elaborate design.

Buta on Shoulder Mantle on Kashmir Shawl. Mughal Dynasty. ca 1700 -1730; (Image Courtesy: Kashmir Company)

Buta-Buti: This motif falls between the sizes of buti and buta, being larger than a buti yet smaller than a buta. It often features double, triple, or even quadruple flower heads but remains smaller than a buta.

Khat-Rast: A striped pattern that runs the length of the shawl, khat-rast sometimes incorporates buti motifs within the stripes.

Khat Rast motif;(Image Courtesy:Hali)

Badam/Ambi/Kairi: Known worldwide as the paisley, this motif is dominant in many shawls and is celebrated for its elegant curves.

Badaam Motif; (Image Courtesy: Map Academy) 

Lahariya: Representing zig-zag forms, this motif is often used to symbolize water.

Lahariya Motif; (Image Courtesy: Aditi Shawl)

Shikargah: Meaning “hunting,” this motif depicts jungle scenes filled with animals and human figures.

Shikargah Motif; (Image Courtesy: Shutterstock)

Zanjeer: Translating to “chains,” this horizontal border design encloses motifs like buta and paisley.

Zanjeer motif; (Image Courtesy: Hali)

Hashiya: This vertical border runs along the length of the shawl, framing the central designs.

Hashiya motif; (Image Courtesy: Hali)

Cypress: Characterized by a cluster of flowers and leaves emerging from a single stem, this motif often features a tilted bloom, giving it a subtle asymmetry.

Bouquets: This motif showcases an elaborate cluster of flowers, often centered around a large bloom, sometimes with no leaves, and emerging from a small vase or dish.

Embroidered shawls also feature similar patterns and designs. The flexibility of the embroidery technique allows artisans to explore a wider range of motifs and designs compared to the more restrictive kani weaving method.

The Rise, Fall, and Resurgence of Pashmina in the 19th Century

During the colonial era, Pashmina faced significant challenges as mass production and commercialization threatened its authenticity and craftsmanship. However, by the mid-20th century, a revivalist movement emerged despite these obstacles. Visionary artisans and cultural enthusiasts sought to preserve the legacy of Pashmina by emphasizing traditional handcrafting techniques and timeless patterns. This period saw a renewed interest in the craft, with efforts focused on maintaining its authenticity while finding ways to make it commercially sustainable.

The decline in the legacy of Pashmina also resulted in the decline of the kani shawl industry of Kashmir as well. At its height, the Kashmir kani shawl industry thrived, with thousands of looms producing shawls for export, growing from 171,000 pounds in 1850 to 351,000 pounds by 1866. French agents had arrived in Srinagar, and European colors and motifs began to influence local designs. However, the industry faced a sudden collapse in the following decade due to several factors. Exploitation and exorbitant taxation (25% ad valorem plus 25% in bribes), the Franco-Prussian War (1870-71), which disrupted trade routes, and a shift in Parisian fashion with the introduction of the “bustle,” which made shawls less fashionable, all contributed to the decline. Additionally, the devastating famine of 1877-79, caused by excessive rains, had a catastrophic impact on the weaver population, with many perishing. As India’s freedom struggle gained momentum, the British siphoned off the revenue from the landed aristocracy, further weakening the industry. By the 1930s, due to rising labor costs, lack of patronage, and widespread impoverishment, kani weaving had all but disappeared.

As the focus of fine weaving shifted to Punjab and Himachal, Kashmir concentrated on embroidering intricate replicas of woven kani shawls. An aging princely class sought lighter, more delicate shawls in their favored colors and traditional motifs. Patronage from princely states and the landed aristocracy in Himachal, Punjab, U.P. (Awadh, Rampur), Rajputana, Central Provinces, Bengal, and Hyderabad sustained the demand for fine shawls, prompting Kashmiri manufacturers to produce some of the most exquisite shawls ever created by hand.

After the near disappearance of fine kani shawl weaving in Kashmir for fifty years, the Government of India established a Kani Weaving Centre in Kanihama, near Srinagar, in the 1980s. A master weaver trained young boys, but it remained a small-scale effort. However, kani weaving saw a resurgence in the late 1990s when the Kashmir wool carpet industry collapsed, prompting weavers to return to crafting reversible pashmina kani shawls. A discerning elite soon emerged to support this revival.

Embroidery on shawl by hand; (Image Courtesy: Pashmina)

In the 1820s, Khwaja Yusuf introduced the technique of embroidering kani shawl designs in wool on pashmina. This needlework, known as amlikar, took less time, cost less, and could be made by a single artisan at home, avoiding high duties. While production declined by the 1930s, it saw a revival in the late 1950s with the return of Mughal and European floral and paisley motifs. Chain stitch embroidery also continued, largely catering to tourists seeking affordable, handmade Kashmiri items.

Post-independence, hand-spun, and woven pashmina were popularized by the Khadi and Village Industries Corporation, promoting Gandhian ideals of self-reliance. By the late 1990s, fine pashmina shawls, with intricate embroidery and woven kanis, captured global attention. Meanwhile, the Najibabadi rafugars emerged as skilled restorers and dealers of antique kani and embroidered shawls. In the early 2000s, they began replicating old dorukhas using embroidery techniques that mimicked weaving and painting. Today, the entire town is involved in this craft, with innovations such as aari (fine chain stitch) embroidery in silken and metallic threads becoming highly popular.

Threat of Mechanisation

To create a pashmina shawl, high-quality wool must first be spun into yarn, dyed, and then woven on a loom. Traditionally, this entire process was done by hand, but with modern advancements, machines now handle much of the spinning and weaving, speeding up production. However, ask any traditional weaver, and they’ll insist that machine-made shawls simply don’t match the quality of their handcrafted counterparts.

In 2016-17, only around 10,000 Kashmiris were involved in shawl-making, a sharp decline from the 100,300 weavers in 2007-08. Despite the decrease in artisans, the production of shawls has surged, indicating that many items labeled as “handmade” are likely machine-made. The Kashmir region’s shawl production reached a value of $124.6 million in 2016-17, up from $96 million in 2014-15.

The traditional set up of weaving;(Image Courtesy: Pashmina)

Dealers in Srinagar point out that global demand for shawls has outpaced what artisans can produce, leading to a rise in the use of power looms. Industry leaders argue that stronger certification methods could safeguard the livelihoods of artisans, particularly shawl makers.

In 2005, the government introduced a geographical indication certificate to distinguish genuine handmade pashmina shawls from machine-made ones. However, this system has proven ineffective, as the certification is reserved for shawls woven by hand from hand-spun pashmina yarn. Today, most pashmina yarn is spun by machine, making it difficult for artisans to meet the strict certification criteria.

The Present Landscape of Pashmina: Craftsmanship Amidst Modern Challenges

Despite numerous modern challenges, the Pashmina industry is growing swiftly globally. Pashmina shawls, a luxury item steeped in heritage, saw exports totaling $23,643,095. These shawls were exported at an average price of $11.45 per unit, reflecting the growing global demand for this exquisite handwoven textile. Pashmina’s allure extends far beyond its traditional roots in the valleys of Kashmir, reaching a vast international audience, with exports distributed across 64 countries.

Oman led as the largest importer, accounting for 30.53% of the total pashmina shawl exports. This suggests a strong regional demand in the Middle East for the intricate craftsmanship of these shawls. Following closely behind, the United Arab Emirates took in 19.82% of the exports, signifying the luxury market’s appreciation for high-quality, handwoven textiles.

Weaving of shawls using shuttle; (Image Courtesy: Pashmina)

The significant exports to Oman and UAE underscore the prominence of the Gulf region in the pashmina trade, where cultural affinity and luxury consumption blend to create a thriving market for these artisanal pieces.

This data points to a vibrant, although competitive, global market for pashmina shawls, with key importers in regions where fine craftsmanship and luxury goods hold cultural and economic significance. The consistent export numbers reflect both the traditional value and the ongoing commercial viability of pashmina in the global marketplace.

Conclusion

In conclusion, the journey of Pashmina, from its ancient origins in the Himalayan mountains to its status as a globally coveted luxury item, is a testament to the artistry, craftsmanship, and cultural legacy of Kashmir. Despite facing challenges during colonial rule, economic disruptions, and competition from machine-made alternatives, the Pashmina industry has endured and even revived over time. The intricate techniques of weaving and embellishing these shawls, particularly the famed kani and embroidered styles, have evolved, preserving their heritage while adapting to modern markets.

Today, Pashmina shawls continue to captivate the world, symbolizing both luxury and tradition. The efforts to protect the authenticity of handmade Pashmina through certifications, along with a growing global appreciation for artisanal craftsmanship, have allowed this timeless craft to flourish once again. With exports reaching markets as far as Oman, the UAE, and beyond, Pashmina remains not just a product of Kashmir’s heritage but also a beacon of cultural and economic significance on the world stage. The resilience of Pashmina’s legacy underscores the enduring beauty and craftsmanship of this remarkable textile art form.