Bandhani, which is also known as ‘Bandhej’ is an age-old Indian tie-dye textile art that originated in the state of Rajasthan and Gujarat, but eventually spread to different places in India including Delhi, with its intricate patterns and cultural significance. Over time, Bandhani flourished and became a cultural motif of Delhi’s markets and its artisans. 

Let’s delve into this amazing motif of Bandhani how it flourished in Delhi, and what is its current status in the modern world.

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Introduction to the Motif

Bandhani refers to the old-age traditional tie-dye technique which involves the fabric being plugged through fingernails into a small binding and then dying it in vibrant colours. The result that we get is a series and continuation of intricate patterns that focus on various themes of life such as fertility, spirituality and marriage. The word Bandhani means ‘tie’, focusing on the method behind this art form.

Delhi is known as the historic trade hub with the artistic practice and culture of its neighbouring regions, including Bandhani. While we are aware that Rajasthan and Gujarat are the main centres of Bandhani, Delhi adopted its pattern. They revitalised the craft into local and regional trade through Royal patronage and the influence of the Mughals on textiles.

Image Source: Wikipedia

Origin of Bandhani 

The Bandhani motif has its age-old roots in ancient India going back to the Harappan civilisation  (3300–1300 BCE). According to archaeological evidence from the Indus region, there is proof that the practice of tie-dying the textile was a way to do and establish a craft that began thousands of years ago. 

With the passage of time and an evolved art, Bandhani quickly became associated with the western region of India, especially Gujarat and Rajasthan from where it received Royal patronage. It was the Khatri community of Rajasthan that was known for its specialisation in Bandhani making, which played a crucial role in the development of the craft, eventually passing it down from generation to generation.

By the time the Mughal period arrived, Delhi became the epicentre of culture and trade, and the Bandhani motif reached different parts of India through cities, markets and artisans communities. The intricate patterns, the cultural significance and the vivid colours of the Bandhani motif appealed to the Mughals and the people of Delhi.

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The flourishing of Bandhani in Delhi

It was during the Mughal Era that Delhi which was known for its governance also became a city of art and crafts, with numerous hearts from around the world arriving in the Mughal courts. It was at this time that various forms of embroidery dying techniques like Bandhani and weaving flourished.

The textile bazaars of Delhi like ‘Chandni Chowk’ eventually became a vibrant centre for merchants from Gujarat and Rajasthan as they introduced the Bandhani fabrics. These motifs were widely used and traditionally worn by the Rajputs, and the Mughals, making them a symbol of cultural richness and prestige.

Apart from its use in clothing, Bandhani motifs also became an everyday home decoration item like wall hanging, bed linens, and tablecloths. Its intricate pattern resonated with Delhi culture and the city’s appreciation for artistry and design during festivals like ‘Diwali’ and ‘Holi’ when people would wear colourful attire, especially Bandhani fabric.

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Details of the Bandhani Motif

The Bandhani motif is quite a delicate and time-consuming process that begins with dying the cloth and tightly tying it at numerous points. Usually, the fabric is cotton or silk and pinched into extremely small binding then dipped in synthetic dyes or natural dyes, based on the desired colour palette.

Technique: The traditional Bandhani involves tying small notes into the fabric through threads, that reduce the dye in the specific areas, leaving an intricate pattern of white circles, once the fabric is died and then the notes are untied. It is to be noted that the tighter the knot, the finer the motif.

There are different methods of tying, like ‘Mothra’, ‘Ekdali’ and ‘Leheria’, with different patterns ranging from very simple dots to stripes, floral designs and waves. The Leheriya technique is especially common as it creates a wave-like design resembling the flowing water.

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Patterns: The different motives are usually inspired by nature with a simple pattern, including flowers, circular medallions and sunbursts. These motifs are usually arranged and geometrical patterns throughout the fabric, making a visually stunning and amazingly harmonious design.

Colour is symbolic in Bandhani. Specially red is used for bridal wear which symbolises prosperity and love, while yellow colour signifies a new beginning and fertility. Blue, green, and purple have also become quite popular with time symbolising growth, royalty and peace.

Regional Variations: The Gujarat style of Bandhani is also known for its different colours and its rich patterns, while Rajasthan Bandhani is more detailed and intricate, and often combines smaller dots and geometrical patterns.

When we speak about Delhi, the Bandhani motif is designed in such a way that it is adapted to cater for the local taste, with subtle colour combinations and more intricate patterns according to cosmopolitan sensibilities.

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Bandhani in Pop Culture 

The Bandhani motif has made quite a significant appearance in numerous Bollywood films and Indian television dramas, the stories are set in rural or historical context. Movies like ‘Hum Dil De Chuke Sanam’ and ‘Lagaan’ feature Bandhani attire to reflect traditions and authenticity. 

In wedding fashion, the Bihani remains a regular choice, especially for ‘Lehenga Cholis’ and ‘Dupattas.’ Bollywood celebrities like Deepika Padukone and Alia Bhatt have graced numerous occasions wearing Bandhani-inspired attire, bringing back the traditional motif into the modern fashion world. 

Apart from that, the Bandhani motif has often featured in many fashion shows and collections by renowned designers like ‘Sabyasachi’ and ‘Manish Malhotra’, who have brought the traditional craft to Indian couture, breaching the age gap between contemporary design and traditional wear.

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The Current Status of Bandhani in Delhi

With the rise of handloom machines and machine-made textiles, the Bandhani motif has been facing some challenges in terms of reserving the traditional craft in modern culture. The new fashion has made it difficult for autism to compete with the mass-producing fabrics and machines.

However, there has been a resurgence of interest in handicraft exile in the last few years due to the growing awareness of ethical fashion and sustainable use. Especially in Delhi where we have craft fairs and boutiques, it continues to showcase different Bandhani garments and accessories appreciating the craft as part of India’s cultural heritage.

Different artisans from Gujarat and Rajasthan have frequently showcased their Bandhani motif work in Delhi’s popular markets like ‘Dilli Haat’ and ‘Hauz Khas Village’, providing new urban consumers to connect with old traditions.