Paithani: The Silky Indian Handloom
Having originally been part of the Mauryan Empire, Satavahana evolved into a strong kingdom during the late 2nd and early 3rd centuries CE. The Satavahana dynasty, famous for their remarkable buildings, governed parts of Maharashtra and Andhra Pradesh in the Deccan region and were pioneers in introducing Indian state coinage. During their expansion, the Satavahana dynasty encouraged the development of weaving in their capital city, Paithan. This resulted in the development of the exquisite Paithani saree, which is currently a famous symbol of Marathi culture and a tangible connection to the dynasty’s enduring
The origin of the name Paithani is from the town called Paithan situated in the Aurangabad district of Maharashtra. Previously called “Pratishthana”, this town was later renamed during the reign of Shalivahana. During this period, his empire significantly exported cotton and textiles to foreign countries and is believed to be the period when the Paithani saree originated.
Source: Satavahana | The City & The City
Paithani, the finest Indian handloom, essentially, a silk saree with decorative zari (gold thread) work on the pallu (end piece) and border alongside traditional designs. The saree is often recognized by the main motif on its border or pallu. Typically, the dominating motif is what identifies the saree’s border or pallu. It is not just a silk saree; it is a combination of stunning colors and intricate designs. It discusses art, culture. Unlike sarees that are produced in large quantities, Paithanis’ are intricately woven by hand using traditional looms. This lengthy and detailed process guarantees high quality and uniqueness. A treasured family antique, it is a timeless possession.
Source: one sequin designs & handicrafts pvt ltd, Traditional Paithani Saree.
Paithani In Making
Textile in use
Paithani transformed from being made with cotton to being made with silk. Silk was utilized in creating patterns on the weft and zari of pure gold for borders, while cotton was used in the main part of the material. There is no cotton to be found in modern Paithani. The modern adaptation of the classic saree is crafted using silk (mulberry silk) threads from Bangalore and zari from Surat. Typically, a traditional Pathani sari requires 500 grams of silk threads along with an extra 250 grams of zari threads. However, these days, it is possible to create a cost-effective saree by using silver instead of gold and cotton instead of silk.
Process involves
Crafting Pure Paithani Sarees is a monumental endeavor, starting with meticulously choosing high-quality raw silk and gold or silver zari, and culminating in weaving and finalizing the saree.
Undyed mulberry silk yarn. Source: www.indiamart.com/karmaenterprisesrajkot/Dinesh Bhai Patolawala Shop.
The untreated silk is cleansed, colored, and readied for weaving. The pure silk is carefully washed. Afterwards, the silk is colored with natural dyes made from plants, vegetables, and minerals blended together to produce appealing hues. Then the dyed silk is divided strand by strand. The threads are loaded onto the loom and carefully positioned to create the design, motifs, and colors.
Source: Sahapedia, Weaving of Saree
Source: Sahapedia, Designing motifs
After the loom is set up every individual warp weft thread is interwoven on the handloom. This provides power over every individual thread, resulting in a more complex production. Creating a single saree could take anywhere from a month to several years due to the complexity and intricate nature of the production process.
Source: Kolour, Paithani Silk Saree being made in loom by hands. Lotus Motif.
In the past, weaving on a loom was typically done by men, with women, children, and the elderly assisting in the before and after stages. The typical weaver falls within the age range of 17 to 45 years old. This complex and time-consuming skill has been predominantly handed down from one generation to the next within a family. These sarees are traditionally woven with hand. Both sides of a Paithani sari are identical, which is a unique feature of this traditional garment. This provides a useful method of differentiating it from the many imitation Paithani sarees produced on a mechanized loom and other counterfeit items available in the market.
Source: The voice of fashion, Inside Marhati, the MSSIDC Weaving Training Centre in Paithan where contemporary Paithani saris are woven on the looms.
Shefalee Vasudev
Evolution Kingdom by Kingdom and the Motifs
During the Satavahana period, Paithan was the primary center for crafting where sarees were made from top-notch silk threads imported from China and locally produced pure zari.
Following the Satavahana rule, Yeola under the Peshwas dynasty emerged as the second main center in Nashik district. The Peshwas had a strong liking for Paithani sarees. The flourishing vine design became the hallmark of the Peshwa Era, eventually called Asavali (flowering vines). The Peshwai era elevated the Paithani saree to a symbol of regal and cultural attire in Marathwada.
Source: Ethnic Race, Traditional Peacock Motif on Paithani saree
Traditional designs consist of parrots, peacocks, and lotuses, but during the Peshwa era, the Hans pattern, the Ashraffi pattern, and the Asavali were also widely favored. Muniya, a border motif, Tota-Maina pattern, is typically woven into the borders of the pallu in green color, with a fun touch of red on its mouth. Other patterns seen on the pallu are the Panja, a geometric flower design with red outlines, the Barwa, made up of twelve ladder-like strands with three on each side, and the classic Mor pattern depicting a peacock.
Source: play-create-learn.wordpress.com, Lotus pattern in gold
The presence of Buddhist paintings in the Ajanta caves near the Paithan region is reflected in the lotus brocade, seen in the pallu and possibly the border designs on Paithani sarees.
Source: paithaniwale.com
Munia Paithani (Tota-Maina).
Source:touchofclasspaithani.com, Asavali motif
Source:touchofclasspaithani.com, Akruti motif
During the 17th century, Aurangzeb, the Mughal emperor, backed the Paithani Silk weavers and unveiled a fresh pattern called ‘Aurangzebi’.
In the later 19th and 20th centuries, the Nizam of Hyderabad commissioned significant amounts of Paithani silks. Paithani may have thrived thanks to the support of the Nizam of Hyderabad’s household. Begum Niloufer, belonging to the Nizam dynasty, is credited for her involvement in popularizing the ‘Parinda’ design.
Source: Indian Numismatic, Historical and Cultural Research Foundation, Parinda Motif
At the close of the 1800s, a different coconut motif called Narali (coconut) was well-liked in Paithani. Coconut symbolizes selfless work, prosperity, and benevolence. It is also a fruit that satisfies all human desires, fulfilling them completely.
Source: Indian Numismatic, Historical and Cultural Research Foundation, Narali border
Source: Indian Numismatic, Historical and Cultural Research Foundation, Narali border with Kalgi motif.
Other Important Motifs
Source: silkbazaar.com, Brocade Paithni
Brocade Paithani sarees showcase elaborate brocade weaving methods, with raised floral or geometric patterns and also peacock pattern woven directly onto the silk. This contributes a luxurious feel and complexity to the design.
Source: play-create-learn.wordpress.com, Unusual kuiri (mango) motif integrated with peacocks. Body of the sari has gold peacock boti.
Source: play-create-learn.wordpress.com, Lotus and Swan pattern on pallu with and unusual plain border
The Lotus and Hans designs, influenced by Buddhist art, are featured in Paithani sarees made from pure silk.
Source: play-create-learn.wordpress.com, A contemporary mix in Paithani style. the body is a jackard pattern resembling banarasi style integrated with Paithani style pallu.
Paithani and the Women
The traditional handwoven sarees are a significant part of Indian women’s attire, making India famous for them. The vivid hues, detailed patterns, and opulent silk material of Paithani sarees showcase the diverse cultural heritage of Maharashtra, paying tribute to its past, folklore, and craftsmanship. The Paithani is nothing short of a valuable possession for a woman.
Source: play-create-learn.wordpress.com, Vintage photograph of a Marathi woman wearing Paithani.
Throughout time, this traditional fabric design has been modernized for present-day brides who are looking for innovative ways to connect with their cultural background. In order to remain important in today’s rapidly changing fashion industry, Paithani sarees have adapted by adding modern elements while still maintaining their traditional core. Paithani sarees can be worn not only on special occasions, but also with joy, grace, and a deep appreciation for the enduring beauty they embody.
Modern machines might have taken the place of human expertise. However, the skill and craftsmanship of artisans in Maharashtra outshines any fabric produced by machines for Paithani sarees The development of Paithani and its incorporation of different styles and trends have demonstrated a notable transformation. This timeless fashion trend remains a significant style statement even in modern times.
The Paithani saree remains a classic representation of grace and tradition…
