Stupas, Stone, and Sangha: Reimagining Sarnath Across Time

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Introduction

City of Sarnath, Source: Castle & King
Dharmachakra Pravartana, Source: Wikipedia.org

Sarnath, approximately ten kilometres from the ancient city of Varanasi in the Gangetic plains of Uttar Pradesh, occupies a unique position in the religious and cultural history of India. It is most well known as the site of the ‘Dharmachakra Pravartana’ (i.e., the first sermon of Lord Buddha). This event not only marked the start of the Sangha, but also started the institutionalized and universal doctrine, moving the individual quest for liberation into a collective. In subsequent centuries, Sarnath became a powerful monastic and artistic centre with patronage from the empire, especially Emperor Asoka in the third century BCE. His memorials, the Ashokan Pillars and Stupas, were impressive in size and ceremonial quality, signalling both political authority and spiritual piety, and placing Sarnath directly in the political geography of the Mauryan empire.

During the Gupta period, artisans crafted the monuments in Sarnath with intricate stone carvings of floral and geometric design, with later empires further changing the material landscape. Its material remains, especially the ‘Dhamek Stupa’ and the ‘Chaukhandi Stupa’ (and their associated site), function as living evidence of the relationship between art, religion, and power, and not merely as relics of the past.

A Brief History of Sarnath

Emperor Asoka, Source: Bharatpedia
Deer Park of Sarnath, Source: Shutterstock

It was in the serene Deer Park of Sarnath that Gautama Buddha, newly enlightened at Bodh Gaya, gave his initial sermon, the groundbreaking “Turning of the Wheel of Dharma” or Dharmachakra Pravartana and imparted the Four Noble Truths (Chatur Arya Sacchani) and the Eightfold Path(Ashtanga Marga), and founded the Buddhist Sangha with his first five disciples.

A few centuries afterwards, the Mauryan emperor Ashoka, filled with guilt of the Kalinga War (261BCE), was welcomed by Buddhist thought, visited the city in 250 BCE. He built the Dhamekh Stupa and the Ashokan Pillar here as symbols of religious awakening and moral rule.

Rediscovery of the ancient glory of Sarnath started in good solemn under British archaeologist Sir Alexander Cunningham in the 1830s, and he excavated stupas and monastic remains, while Friedrich Oscar Oertel’s work in the early 20th century uncovered the Ashoka Pillar and its legendary capital.

King Harsavardhana, Source: VCoins

Later rulers, from the Kushans and Guptas to Harshavardhana, left rich deposits on Sarnath’s religious architecture, enriching the Dhamekh Stupa with beautiful floral stone carvings during the Gupta period.

The Archaeological Survey of India set up the Sarnath (Archaeological) Museum in 1910 to preserve these expressions of culture.

Buddhism and Sarnath

Alexander Cunningham, Source: The Victorian Web

In Buddhist chronicles, the Sarnath city is the origin of the institutional life of the faith, as Buddha’s initial group came together and the ‘Dharma’ was presented for the first time, and this event also signifies the birth of the ‘Sangha’, the monastic community that would be the foundation of Buddhist institutional life for centuries to come.

Of the monuments, the ‘Dhamekh Stupa’ is still the highest designation. It measures 43.6 metres high and 28 metres wide and carries elements of Ashoka‘s original structure as well as elaborate Gupta stone ornamentations featuring flowers, vines, and geometric patterns, which are the hallmark of mature devotional aesthetics.

Another monument, the ‘Chaukhandi Stupa’, was initially a 7th–8th-century terraced temple indicating Buddha’s arrival route from Bodh Gaya. The octagonal tower atop it was later added by Govardhan to commemorate Mughal emperor Humayun’s visit in 1532. Today acknowledged as a national importance monument, it is a sign of interfaith strata in Sarnath’s heritage.

Even while Buddhism spread to foreign lands, from Central Asia and Sri Lanka to China and Japan. Sarnath continued as a pilgrimage site, connecting local geography to universal religious imagination. Within Buddhist cosmology, it symbolized the location of the first sermon, but also the ground where Dharma was given expression within human society. To walk its ruins today is to witness the transformation of spiritual awakening into a historical community, etched in stone and memory.

Dhamek Stupa

Dhamek Stupa, Source: Incredible India

The ‘Dhamek Stupa’ of Sarnath is one of the most stable architectural records of early Buddhist culture, combining the sanctity of the site with the development of religious art in India. Originally commissioned by Emperor Ashoka in the 3rd century BCE, and enlarged and decorated later during the Gupta period, it reflects waves of successive patronage of kings.

Standing to a height of almost 43 metres, its drum-shaped dome dominates the landscape of the ancient Deer Park, the very area where the Buddha is said to have preached his first sermon. The lower drum of the stupa, which is covered with delicate floral and geometric patterns, is a testament to the style of Gupta artistry, whereby symbolic abstraction had supplanted anthropomorphic representations of the Buddha.

Within its architectural design, the Dhamek Stupa is an architecture of presence, intimating the Buddha not as an icon but as an abiding principle of enlightenment. Archaeological testimony also indicates ritual circumambulation or ‘Pradakshina’, showing its function not as a mere monument but as a vibrant space of worship. Today, as most of its upper levels remain in ruins, it still emanates both historical seriousness and spiritual symbolism, connecting ancient ritual practice to current devotion.

Chaukhandi Stupa

Chaukhandi Stupa, Source: Travelsetu.com

The ‘Chaukhandi Stupa’ at Sarnath holds a singular position in the architectural and cultural history of Buddhism in India, not only due to its age but also due to the multiple layers of meaning written upon it over successive centuries.

Thought to have been first built sometime during the 7th or 8th centuries CE, it stands on the hallowed ground where the Buddha, traveling from Bodh Gaya after enlightenment, met for the first time his five former friends, the men who were to be his first disciples. The Chaukhandi stupa was designed as a terraced temple-like building, with its square foundation being seen to represent stability and order. In the 16th century, Govardhan, a governor of Akbar’s court, built the monument as a four-arched octagonal archway in order to remember the visit of Emperor Humayun. The monument eventually became a unique example of Indo-Islamic architecture. Presently, although it is partially destroyed and now in ruins, the monument certainly has a reflective seriousness. It also reminds spectators that sacred sites are not stagnant; they are continuously shaped by faith, by politics, and by memory. The stupa functions, nonetheless, simultaneously both a monument to Buddhist devotion and an indicator of the dense historical context of India.

Contemporary Tourism

Sarnath Archaeology Museum, Source: Trawell.in
Wat Thai Temple, Sarnath, Source: Indiano Travel

Now, Sarnath is more than just a historical place; it’s a throbbing spiritual tourism and heritage innovation hub. The Sarnath Museum is still a cultural gem, with over 6,800 artifacts covering the 3rd century BCE to the 12th century CE, such as Gupta refinement Buddha sculptures, terracotta panels, inscriptions, votive stupas, and textual pieces, all displayed in five galleries for experiential learning.

In 2025, Sarnath joined the immersive trend with the introduction of an upgraded Laser Projection and Sound Show, employing 8-D, 4K, and 3-D effects projected onto the Dhamekh Stupa. The forty-five-minute show, first introduced in Hindi and English, with Pali in the works, brings the Buddha’s teachings and life to contemporary viewers.

Also, the Thai temple features a colossal 80-foot standing Buddha (a replica of the Bamiyan Buddha), attracting worldwide attention, which emphasizes Sarnath’s living spiritual connections and cross-cultural admiration.

Conclusion

Pilgrims in Sarnath, Source: Encounters Travel

Hence, Sarnath is much more than an archaeological site; it is a living memory, myth, and meaning that for centuries has held Indian cultural history together. It is sacred because of the first sermon of the Buddha, in which the wheel of Dharma was set in motion and the solitary search for enlightenment was set into motion with a community of followers.

Sarnath became a site where Ashoka proclaimed a moral order to his empire through its stone pillars and stupas, where the people’s past understood social interactions had moral ideology in the practices of religion, art, and power as one and ever more connected processes.

Monuments like the Dhamek and Chaukhandi stupas are not just brick-and-stone rubble but are eloquent witnesses to a monumental past.

The iconographic elements of lions, lotuses, and Dharma wheels served to remind early pilgrims of the constant truths of justice and right action while resonating with the rich tones important to modern India.

To stand at Sarnath is to sense the whispers of Ashoka’s regret, the confined recited silence, the virtuosity of Gupta artisans, the resonance of Mughal commemoration, and the intersecting gaze of the modern pilgrim or tourist. Sarnath opens the door to a deeper understanding that cultural history does not exist in isolation as something boxed and left alone. Like Dharma itself, cultural history spirals, dynamized and charged across epochs and planes, sustaining the flame of previous eras in the present. Sarnath is therefore not only an old fragment of history, but a voice living and singing the depth of India’s capacity to maintain, reinterpret, and reawaken relations with its past in a way that continues to renew scholarship and contemplation.

References

Cunningham, Alexander. Four Reports Made During the Years 1862–63–64–65. Vol. 1. Archaeological Survey of India, 1871.

Dehejia, Vidya. Early Buddhist Rock Temples: A Chronological Study. Ithaca: Cornell University Press, 1972.

Fogelin, Lars. Archaeology of Early Buddhism. Lanham: Altamira Press, 2006.

Marshall, John. Archaeological Survey of India Annual Report, 1904–05. Calcutta: Superintendent of Government Printing, 1906.

Mitra, Debala. Buddhist Monuments. Calcutta: Sahitya Samsad, 1971.

Ray, Himanshu Prabha. The Archaeology of Seafaring in Ancient South Asia. Cambridge: Cambridge University Press, 2003.

Singh, Upinder. A History of Ancient and Early Medieval India: From the Stone Age to the 12th Century. Delhi: Pearson, 2008.

Strong, John S. The Legend of King Aśoka: A Study and Translation of the Aśokāvadāna. Delhi: Motilal Banarsidass, 1989.

Thapar, Romila. Aśoka and the Decline of the Mauryas. Delhi: Oxford University Press, 2012.

Williams, Joanna. The Art of Gupta India: Empire and Province. Princeton: Princeton University Press, 1982.

https://www.tripoto.com/uttar-pradesh/places-to-visit/sarnath

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