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The Pichhaura, a distinctive hand-printed textile tradition from India, represents a remarkable confluence of artistic excellence and cultural significance. This traditional textile, characterised by its intricate block printing techniques and vibrant colours, has been integral to ceremonial and everyday life in certain regions of northern India, particularly Uttar Pradesh.

Origin

The art of Pichhaura printing originated in the ancient town of Farrukhabad, Uttar Pradesh, during the Mughal period. Local artisans, known as ‘chippas’, developed this craft under the patronage of nawabs who appreciated the delicate balance of Persian influences and indigenous designs. The name ‘Pichhaura’ derives from the Sanskrit words ‘pichha‘ (back) and ‘aura‘ (and), signifying its traditional use as a wraparound garment.

How it Flourished

Image Source: Kumauni Culture

The craft flourished during the 18th and 19th centuries when Farrukhabad emerged as a significant textile printing centre. The availability of natural dyes from local sources, combined with the region’s proximity to major trade routes, contributed to its growth. The craft received substantial patronage from local nobility and wealthy merchants, leading to the development of sophisticated printing techniques and diverse design repertoires.

Traditional Handwoven Pichhaura

The traditional Pichhaura is characterized by its bright red and yellow base colours, symbolizing prosperity and purity. It features intricate motifs such as paisleys, flowers, and geometric patterns, often arranged in symmetrical designs. These are typically created using hand-block printing techniques, which require meticulous precision and craftsmanship.

Details about Motif: Surya Chandra Codi

https://asiainch.org/craft/pichhauraceremonial-grament-of-almora-uttarakhand/1000/#!jig[1]/ML/184136

Pichaura is typically handwoven or block-printed on fine cotton or silk fabrics. Its roots trace back to the Kumaon and Garhwal regions of Uttarakhand, where it has been an integral part of the traditional attire for women. Historically, it symbolized prosperity and blessings, often gifted to brides as part of their wedding trousseau. The textile serves as a reflection of the mountainous state’s natural beauty and its people’s devotion to spirituality.

Pichaura textiles are recognized for their distinctive patterns, predominantly rendered in two colours: saffron (auspiciousness and sanctity) and red (fertility and prosperity). These vibrant hues are set against a white or off-white background, which symbolizes purity. The patterns are arranged symmetrically, creating a harmonious and visually appealing composition.

1. Geometric Designs

• Checkered Patterns: The border of the Pichaura often features checkered designs symbolizing balance and order. This repetitive geometric arrangement is believed to ward off negativity.
• Triangles and Diamonds: Small triangles and diamonds within the design signify stability and protection, echoing the rugged mountain terrain of Uttarakhand.
  

  Image Source: D’Source

2. Floral Motifs

• Lotus Flowers: The lotus, a recurring motif, represents purity and divine beauty. It also holds religious significance in Hindu culture, making it a prominent element in the design.
• Vines and Creepers: These patterns depict the interconnectedness of life and nature, often trailing gracefully along the edges of the textile.

3. Anthropomorphic and Deity Figures

• Deity Representations: Occasionally, motifs inspired by local deities or spiritual symbols are integrated, signifying blessings and protection.
• Human Figures: Dancing or celebratory human forms are sometimes depicted, showcasing joy and festivity.

Image Source: D’Source

4. Animal Motifs

• Peacocks and Swans: These birds symbolize grace, beauty, and spiritual transcendence. They are often placed at the centre or corners of the textile.
• Fishes: Representing abundance and fertility, fish motifs are common, inspired by Uttarakhand’s rivers and aquatic life.

5. Organic and Eco-Friendly Pichhaura

With the rise of sustainable fashion, organic Pichhauras have gained popularity. These are crafted using natural fibres like organic cotton and plant-based dyes, ensuring minimal environmental impact. The designs often draw inspiration from nature, featuring earthy tones and motifs of leaves, mountains, and rivers. This variant appeals to eco-conscious consumers who value heritage crafts with a modern, sustainable twist.

Details about Motif: Shawl

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Traditionally, the Pichhaura shawl is handcrafted exclusively by women artisans at home, using Chicken Karahi cloth. It is worn by women on all auspicious occasions, symbolising cultural and religious significance. Over time, however, with changing trends, men have also begun creating these shawls, and they are now available for sale in shops. Additionally, to cater to customer preferences, the shawls are sometimes block printed on various fabric materials.

The Weaving Process

The art of weaving Pichaura is labour-intensive and requires a meticulous hand. Traditional looms are used to create the base fabric, which is woven with precision to achieve a smooth and even texture. The weavers, often skilled artisans who have inherited their craft through generations, work with threads of varying thickness to create intricate patterns that characterize Pichaura.

Designing and Motif Creation

The hallmark of Pichaura lies in its distinctive motifs, which are often hand-painted or block-printed onto the fabric. Common designs include geometric patterns, floral themes, and religious symbols such as diyas (lamps) and swastikas. These motifs are meticulously planned to ensure symmetry and harmony. Block-printing involves the use of carved wooden blocks, dipped in natural dyes, and pressed onto the fabric in repeated patterns. Hand painting, on the other hand, allows for more intricate and personalized designs.

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Dyeing and Finishing

Once the motifs are added, the fabric undergoes a dyeing process. Artisans immerse the fabric in dye vats, ensuring the colours penetrate evenly and remain vibrant over time. Multiple rounds of dyeing and drying are often required to achieve the desired intensity of colour. After dyeing, the fabric is washed and ironed to fix the colours and enhance the sheen of the material. The finished Pichaura is then inspected for quality, ensuring that it meets the high standards expected by its users.

The creation of Pichaura involves meticulous craftsmanship. Artisans either use traditional block-printing methods or hand-paint the motifs. The precision required to maintain symmetry and clarity in the patterns showcases the artisans’ skill and dedication. The use of natural dyes ensures the fabric retains its vibrancy and eco-friendliness.

Reference to Pop Culture

In recent years, Pichhaura textiles have gained renewed attention through contemporary fashion. Notable Indian designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee featured traditional Pichhaura prints in his 2020 collection, bringing this ancient craft to international runways. The textile also appeared in the critically acclaimed film ‘Bareilly Ki Barfi (2017), where it was showcased as part of traditional wedding ceremonies.

Current Status

Despite its rich heritage, Pichhaura printing faces significant challenges today. The number of traditional artisans has dwindled from over 200 families in the 1950s to fewer than 50 active practitioners. However, initiatives by organisations like the Craft Revival Trust and government schemes have begun focusing on preserving this art form. Young designers are also experimenting with Pichhaura techniques on contemporary garments, helping to sustain the craft while adapting it to modern tastes.