Myth to Silken Reality
MYTH TO SILKEN REALITY
Ever gotten awestruck by the intricate patterns of a Kanchipuram saree? They are not mere designs but an expression of art, tradition, and culture. The city of silk, Kanchipuram is home to its woven magic, the Kanchipuram Sarees. The sarees are a delicate expression of it’s material, texture, and designs.
Queen of Motifs: Annapakshi
Motifs are designs that are found recurring in an artistic piece. These motifs have dual objectives, to contribute to the aesthetics of an art work as well as hold a symbol of cultural reference. The land of thousand temples, Kanchipuram, has its own rich tapestry and carvings in the form of temple architecture.
The Kanchipuram sarees are an exquisite forum of these motifs and are taken as inspiration from the temple architecture, which makes it an important source of history and tradition. The weavers draw graphs and add those as motifs to the sarees. The most common one, often known as the Queen of motifs is the ‘ Annapakshi’. Annapakshi or the divine swan, that is often misunderstood as a peacock. It has a body and beak, that resembles a swan, while the feathers and crest goes down to resemble a peacock.
From Texts to threads
Legends say that this mythical bird had flown down from heaven, symbolizing purity and elegance. Mythology suggests that the bird is also Goddess Saraswathi’s vehicle, due to which it invokes intellectual prosperity and wisdom. The belief that this bird represents eternal life, stems from the notion that it is a celestial creature. The annapakshi motif, which had appeared in Gandharan and Kushan sculptures were later incorporated into temple iconography. The representation of these birds on temple architecture and iconography, adds the depth of history to it. Kalidasa’s epic poem, Kumarasambhava, refers to a garment as hamsa dukula, describing this bird as a feature of decoration of the heroine’s wedding saree. Right from these legends, myths, and texts, the bird flew down to adorn the sarees of Kanchipuram. 
During the 17th Century, Birds were used as designs by the Europeans. Later on, Birds were seen as a symbol of exoticity, that made people purchase bird cages for the sake of fame. This attachment of elegance and fame to birds, paved their way to silk. Due to the legacy of auspicious and it’s beauty, the Annapakshi motif grew up to be an integral part of sarees, and it got etched in the borders.
Besides the craft of silk, the Annapakshi is also a symbol of culture. The bird is said to have extraordinary powers to discrete virtue and sin, which is it is said to be a cultural icon of Tamil Nadu. The carvings of Annapakshi is a common sight in temples. It has also found in South Indian Brass lamps, called Kuthu vilakku. The bird is shown to hold a flowering vine in its beak, which symbolizes wealth. These lamps have a special place in each occasion, and lighting of lamps marks the beginning of a ceremony, often considered to be auspicious.
Annapakshi over the years
The origins of Annapakshi motif is traced to Mythology and Vedic Literature. It was during the 9th Century, under the Chola Empire that temple architecture gained prominence. The Annapakshi motif was carved into temple walls, pillars, and ceilings, symbolizing celestial and divine nature. During the Vijayanagar Empire, temple architecture and motifs received royal patronage. The introduction of motifs in textiles began during the 14th Century, and the Annapakshi motif was widely used in royal and ceremonial garments. The motif was adopted in textiles, particularly the Kanchipuram Sarees, under the Mysore, and Maratha Empires. The Annapakshi became a central motif, particularly related to weddings. They were also featured in Jewelery. Even under the colonial rule, the annapakshi motif continued to be featured. As we approached, modernity, Annapakshi motif gained appreciation as a cultural icon. The Annapakshi motif has traveled across history, and has occupied a special space for itself. 
Significance : The scared knot of divinity and culture
The weavers of Kanchipuram belong to a community called Padma Saliyars, who are the descendants of Sage Markandaya, who was believed to be the master weaver of God. It is due to this notion that they believe weaving as a sacred duty. The Annapakshi motif is considered to be auspicious, and a symbol of elegance and grace. Apart from the divine nature, it is also showcases the rich heritage of art and aesthetics of Tamil Nadu. It is truly a mesmerizing parallel that we could draw between the Sarees and temples of Kanchipuram. Both are epitome representations of divinity, culture and rich history. It is through the preservation and passing on of these symbols, that history and culture are passed on to the next generation.
