Jewelry is always a passion to people, especially those in Kerala who consume the most of Gold jewelry in the market. The trajectory of jewelry in Kerala is influenced by its society, culture as well and cosmopolitanism. The traditional jewelry in Kerala is influenced by its geography, landscape, and architecture. The preferences for jewelry among people are also unique, where you can find specific jewelry types and sets for Hindus, Muslims, and Christians separately. Moreover, with an evolving society, jewelry has upgraded to simple, elegant as well as comfortable jewelry. Let’s dive into it now.
JEWELLERIES IN HISTORY
The history of jewelry in India dates back to the Indus Valley civilisation and other similar earlier civilisations. The jewelry was an intricate part of the lives of people, including both men and women. The early jewelry was made of Pebbles, animal skins, shells, threads, and crystals. With the beginning of the usage of metals like iron, copper, Gold, etc have become the base for jewelry making. As centuries went by and India came under the rule of various empires and dynasties, they all have exerted great influence on the lifestyle of the people that including jewelry, clothing, and equipment. In South Silappadikaram as well as the Vijayanagara Empire, artifacts give a detailed description of various kinds of jewelry in the region.
EVOLUTION
The jewelry in Kerala has been influenced by various religions, castes, landscapes, architecture and many more. During 1000 B.C., they used stone beads, which are present in museums of the archeology department, and later on they used terracotta beads. This changed over time with invasions and trade connections. Apart from this, there are influences from various dynasties such as the Cheras, Zamorins, and the impact of trade relations with Europe and the Middle East. For instance, the intricate filigree work in Kerala jewelry is influenced by the Mughal special jewelry like ‘Meenakari’. Most of the Kerala jewelry is influenced by Hinduism, which portrays various lords like Krishna, Ganesh, and goddess Mahalakshmi. The Cheras were the most powerful interconnector in Kerala’s history, which has influenced its jewelry through trading pearls, stones, and gold from Rome and other parts of the world. The exquisite trade also made them wealthy enough to afford the precious materials.
Concerning the technique, in Kerala, there is a community called ‘thattan’ who are the artisans making jewelry, and as technology has developed, there are machine-made jewelry is also available now.
JEWELRY OF LOVE
The Traditional ornaments of Kerala are crafted from various materials, including gold, silver, and precious stones. Gold is the most favored for its durability and value, while silver is often used for more casual pieces. Kerala’s artisans employ techniques such as temple jewelry making, and the intricate art of filigree contributes to the unique aesthetic of the ornaments. The jewelry in Kerala has certain variations according to the family custom of transferring ornaments to generation. Some common traditional jewelry is:-
Mullamottu mala – Mulla is jasmine flowers. The Mullamottu necklace is a staple of Kerala bridal jewelry featuring intricate jasmine buds stacked together, representing beauty and grace. Available in short and long chains, the mullamottu necklace reflects purity and devotion. Another variation of the mullamottu necklace is the pichimottu necklace, featuring pichi flowers.
kaashumala -The traditional kasu necklace is all about Lakshmi Devi, the deity of wealth, embossed in dainty coins. They are said to attract wealth and prosperity, as symbolised by Goddess Lakshmi. They are gifted to brides as a blessing for a happy married life. The goddess Lakshmi is embedded in the coin to invoke blessings on the newly married couple.
Nagapadam mala – The worship of snakes is deeply rooted in the heritage of Kerala, as sacred groves. As the name suggests, a nagapadam is nothing but the hood of a snake. The motifs stacked in a nagapadam necklace are similar to a snake hood and are crafted of coloured glass or gemstones. Rubies and emeralds are often spotted in a nagapdam necklace. They are believed to lend protection and strength to the wearer. It is also said to avert evil energies and bring good fortune.
palakka mala -Palakka means the seed of the Pala tree. The beauty of the necklace lies in the green stones that the necklace is embedded in it. This traditional piece is celebrated for its allure and cultural symbolism. They also feature emerald stones in between. It is regarded as palakka leaves with prosperity and abundance.
Manga mala -The traditional manga necklace has the best of both worlds, including the religious motifs and the silhouette of a mango. This jewelry piece comes with mango-shaped pendants arranged together, with a statement locket in the middle. They often feature gemstones, elevating their charm. Mango symbolizes love, fertility, prosperity, and wealth. Lakshmi’s manga necklace is one of the iconic jewelry in this set.
Elakkathali – is an enchanting collar necklace that matches every movement and sparkles with every move. It is a classic Kerala jewelry design that is placed above other necklaces and is crafted out of intricate gold strands. It has also been an intricate part of the Christian jewelry as well as the Muslim ensemble of brides. It’s also a go-to jewelry for Mohiniyattam dancers.
Apart from this, women in Kerala also wear Odyanam, Gowrishankara mala, Karimani mala, etc. Most of the above-mentioned necklace patterns are traditional, and similar patterned earrings, bangles, and other ornaments can also be found. Though Kerala has a huge heritage of jewelry, the usage of such jewelry in earlier periods was limited to the upper caste.
Common motifs include floral patterns, peacock designs, and temple structures, each symbolizing prosperity and good fortune. The designs often reflect local folklore and nature, connecting the wearer to their heritage. While traditional ornaments remain timeless, contemporary designs are emerging. Fusion jewelry, combining traditional motifs with modern aesthetics, is gaining popularity.
CURRENT SITUATION
The people in Kerala are among the most prominent jewelry lovers in India, who, irrespective of affordability, acquire jewelry and see it as a great investment for the future. In Kerala, the current jewelry trend is a blend of traditional designs with modern elements. Popular choices include traditional necklaces like the Palakka mala, Mullamottu mala, and Kasu Mala, as well as heirloom jewelry often incorporating colored gemstones are paired with recent designs and materials like diamond. Lightweight and modern gold pieces are also gaining popularity, particularly among the younger generations. This demand for lightweight is mainly because of the increased cost of gold as well as the switch to a modern, simple lifestyle.
CONCLUSION
The concept of traditional Kerala jewelry is based on nature, mostly grass, seeds, fruits, flowers, leaves, animals, celestial bodies, and Hindu mythology. The design traditions in the Kerala ethnic ornaments are unmoved by the ever-changing trends of fashion. While observing the traditional ornaments from past forms to 21st Century contemporary styles, it is obvious that traditional techniques and themes are strong enough to influence 21st Century fashion. Ivory and tiger claws are represented in imitable materials, and in designs made in gold, silver, gems, coral beads, and the craze for traditional jewelry is an all-time event. As the youngsters also adopt traditional jewelry for occasions and the availability of simple and intricate designs has been adored by them for reflecting their individuality.
Sources
Narration on ethnic jewellery of Kerala-focusing on design, inspiration, and morphology of motifs,https://medcraveonline.com/JTEFT/JTEFT-06-00260.pdf
https://www.academia.edu/8096461/Ethnic_Jewellery_of_Kerala
https://www.academia.edu/122903729/Traditional_Ornaments_of_Kerala_A_Journey_Through_Time
Traditional to Contemporary Indian Jewellery: A Review – Puram Rani and Vivek Singh