Muga silk is one of the most exquisite and expensive silks in the world and has been produced for over 600 years in the northeastern Indian state of Assam. This golden-coloured silk is not just a fabric but a symbol of heritage and artistry that has withstood the test of time and even thrived beyond its origins. Yet, most people are not aware of its rich history, origins, and significance in the modern era. This article closely focuses on these aspects and traces the transformation journey of Muga silk from the silk of royalty to the pride of Assam.

Introduction

Since time immemorial, the Assamese muga silk has been carefully spun with golden threads, serving as a living testament to the weavers’ hard work, patience, and passion. These are extracted from the muga silkworm that feeds on the foliage of the Som and Soalu trees. Muga silk can be found only in the lush Brahmaputra Valley and the Garo Hills of Assam.

Muga silk is not just manufactured in Assam but is also claimed to be unique. With 87% of India’s total supply, this silk goes beyond mere wear. This exquisite textile is cherished, handed down as a legacy, valued in wedding trousseau, and feted as heritage. Each thread of muga tells a history, the rhythm of the weavers’ hands, and the hope that this practice will live on.

Origin

There is little information about the past of Muga silk in India, but it is thought to be very old. Kautilya, the great scholar, wrote about golden silk from Assam, showing that it existed long ago. However, the muga silk became popular during the Ahom dynasty, when only the royal family, senior officials, and nobility could wear it. Interior palace weavers, typically taught by Ahom queens, made this elegant fabric.

With the demands on the rise, production spread outside the palace, leading to many Assamese women and men taking an interest in learning weaving. However, the silk trade fell apart during the colonial period as the British preferred manufacturing cotton and wool. Further, the growth of tea plantations also limited the number of workers available for silk production.  

Though there was a decline in the industry, Muga silk remains and continues to hold significance. The Geographical Indication (GI) protection was granted in 2007 and officially recognised as a distinctive product of Assam.

Motifs and Symbols in Muga Silk

In recent times, muga silk has been widely used in textile making. Some muga silk items include sarees, kurtas, mekhela chadors, bed covers, and upholstery. The fabrics are decorated with different motifs that have changed over time.

Nature often inspires traditional motifs of flowers, ferns, trees, butterflies, birds, and animals. Assamese ornament designs like Thuria, Loka Paro, Joonbiri, and Gaam Kharu were also used as motifs. While many are decorative, some hold cultural importance.

• Kaziranga Style: This pattern is based on the animals that live in Kaziranga, which has rhinos and deer weaved into it.

• King Khap Style: Two lions face each other in King Khap Style. This stands for strength and power and shows how grand the Ahom dynasty was.

• Joonbiri Style: This design is based on the arc-shaped Assamese necklace Joonbiri, which has detailed carvings.

Weaving Process and Craftsmanship

The process of making Muga silk is complex. The silkworms feed on Assam tea plant leaves. The silk is collected only after the moth emerges, making the fibres longer and more durable.

A pedal-operated bhir is used for reeling. Two artisans work together to twist and reel the silk from the cocoon. The threads are carefully unwound and spun. The weaving is done on handlooms like throw shuttle looms and lion looms.

Improved mechanisms like dobby and jacquard are used in large factories. However, most small weavers do not have access to these machines.

Muga Silk in Modern Fashion and Global Market

People are fond of muga silk clothing because it has both old and new styles while keeping its traditional value. Handloom workers can make more money when the business is improved. More and more people want fashion that is both eco-friendly and moral. Thus, the silk business of Assam can shine. Muga silk can become famous worldwide by keeping the traditional way of making it alive and changing with the times.

Muga Silk in Assamese Cultural Celebrations

The culture of Assam revolves heavily around muga silk. It is primarily worn at the largest celebration in the state, Bihu, which marks harvest season.

While women put on Mekhela Chador, men wear dhotis, kurtas, or gamosas made of muga silk. These costumes make Bihu rituals and dances look better.

In addition, weddings and religious events call for Muga silk. Brides are given Muga silk garments as a gift. Its durability makes it an important asset. A sign of pride and tradition, muga silk is closely connected to the traditions of Assam.

Challenges and Sustainability

Muga silk farming has many problems. With too much rain, heat, and strong winds, the changing weather makes it hard to care for silkworms. Chemicals from tea gardens harm the silkworms and their food plants. Farmers barely have enough money to purchase safe silkworm eggs or improved tools. Some lack land for silkworm cultivation. They don’t know how to protect silkworms from sickness and predators. Prices for silk change constantly when they sell it. Hence, they do not always obtain fair income.

Muga silk is highly unique even with these challenges. There are no harmful chemicals used in the production process. The plants that silkworms eat are good for the environment. Water or air are not polluted when Muga silk is made. For many people, particularly women, cultivating silkworms is a source of income. New technologies also ease the growth of this silk; they use innovative tools to find diseases, safe food for silkworms, and certain lights to keep bugs away. With more help, Muga silk could grow and be loved all over the world.

Conclusion

Muga silk has a lot of traditional meaning in Assam. It is an integral part of Assamese culture. Classic and modern designers alike like this cloth for its unique qualities. The value of this beautiful cloth keeps increasing in India and worldwide as more people learn about it.