GOHONA BORI : BENGAL’S TIMELESS TRADITION OF EDIBLE ART
Gohona Bori and its Making
Source – The Better India
Introduction
Gohona Bori or Goyna Bori is a sophisticated culinary art of Bengal which combines food and crafts. It is part of Bengali heritage for centuries and is made of handmade, sun dried lentil dumplings that are shaped like jewels. Originating in Medinipur district of West Bengal, Gohona Bori or Naksha Bori, is a cherished delicacy that illustrates fine craftsmanship and culinary skills of the region. It is art when served as plumes, and peeps out of a rich shali. These women artisans who usually work in clusters deftly craft black gram paste poured through a nozzle into these pieces of beauty.
Origins and History
Gohona Bori
Source – The Hint Today
Gohona Bori finds its roots in Medinipur in West Bengal dated several centuries back. The terms “Gohona” meaning jewelry and “Bori” as in dumpling gives a vivid description of these edible jewelry. In almost all Bengali families, preparation of Gohona Bori has been a part of the rituals for weddings. Women partake in creating specific shapes that stand for prosperity, skill, and creativity.
An art that fascinated Rabindranath Tagore
Source – The Better India
While the exact period of its origin is uncertain, experts believe that the craft developed several centuries back. There are historical records that Mughals had some impact in the embellishment of these dumplings within viands. Indeed, the designs on Gohona Bori are more than closely associated with the patterns used in Bengali and Mughal jewelry and craftsmanship.
Gohona Bori
Source – Telegraph India
This artistic skill became well known in the 20th century when Bengal’s Nobel Laureate, Rabindranath Tagore, described the making of Gohona Bori. His love for folk art enabled him to support this particular gastronomic art form. In 1930, Gohona Bori made by her mother Hiranmayi Devi and grandmother Sharat Kumari Devi was presented to Tagore by a Shantiniketan student who lived in Mahishadal in Medinipur. Tagore was so impressed with the decoration that he instructed that the photographs of the condiment be taken to be kept in the fine arts division of Visva Bharati. His nephew Abanindranath Tagore, the painter of animal pictures, gave the Naksha Bori new designs with deer, elephants, butterflies, and other animals. Famous sculptor Nandalal Bose, one of Tagore’s students, also adored the Gohona Bori. He openly admired, “the broken box of mother Bengal,” and he found in them “jewel(s)”. Historian Utsa Ray noted that this fine art originated in Medinipur but became a pride of all Bengal.
Making of the Gohona Bori
Source – BBC
The Art of Making Gohona Bori
Making Gohona Boris is considered to be a winter work since the cold and dry air encourages the proper dehydration of the boris, and is largely a gendered task. At the heart of Gohona Bori is great degree of artistry. The dumplings have a filling made of black gram (urad dal) which is soaked, ground, and whipped into a fluffy batter. This fluffy batter is very much required, as it helps the bori maintain its beautifully intricate shape while drying.
Artisans begin by carefully putting the seasoned lentil paste into piping or banana leaf cones. It is similar to piping the frosting on a cake. They pipe beautiful designs on top of a layer of poppy seeds that not only enable the patterns to stick but are also crispy when fried.
After getting the desired shape the boris are placed under the sun till they dry for a couple of days. This gradual dehydrating process makes sure that the boris maintain their shape and crispness when fried. The boris are then deep-fried in oil making them light, crispy and golden while ready to be served.
Gohona Bori in the style of a necklace
Source – The Bong Style
Motifs in Gohona Bori
The designs featured in Gohona Bori represent Bengal’s unique artistic heritage of drawing motifs from nature, mythology, and traditional jewelry crafted as replicas of necklaces, earrings, and nath, etc. The most frequent designs are paisleys, floral, conch shells, fish, geometrical figures, sunbursts, and others. All of them are symbolic, and all of them need extremely precise hand movements.
Motifs in Gohona Bori
Source – Slurrp
Conch Shell – In Bengali culture, a conch shell (shankha) has a lot of auspiciousness associated with it. Bengali rituals and festivities are incomplete without the blowing of the conch-shell, a motif drawn from Hindu iconography.
Fish Motifs – Bengal fish motifs are very characteristic of Bengal representing dietary as well as ritualistic symbolism depicting prosperity and fertility.
Sunburst Sign – Sunburst sign patterns usually represent energy and blessings from God.
Nature-inspired Designs – Flowers, leaves, birds, butterflies and other nature inspired motifs are representative of the abundant natural beauty of Bengal. The butterfly or Prajapati is also associated with Lord Brahma and marriage in Bengali imagination.
Motifs drawn from the regional artforms – Some boris have patterns reminiscing kantha shawl embroidery and terracotta carvings which showcase Bengal’s wider artistic influences.
Gohona Bori is multifunctional and unique as food and art but the designs are not mere decoration, these handcrafted designs form the essence of the identity and culture in Bengal.
Gohona Bori and its Making
Source – Curly Tales
Cultural and Social Significance
Gohona Bori, which is mostly produced in the Purba Medinipur region in places like Tamluk, Mahishadal, Sutahata, and Panskura, is more than just a food item; it is ingrained in Bengali culture. Making these decorative dumplings is frequently a group activity in rural homes, bringing together women from various generations. It is a way to preserve heritage, strengthen family ties, and transmit culinary and artistic abilities.
Traditionally, making bori is regarded as sacred, and before the activity, the women of the household take a shower and change into new clothes. They perform wedding rites and offer prayers to these boris while making two large dumplings and covering them with vermilion.
Gohona Bori is prepared and given as a sign of goodwill at many traditional Bengali weddings. It is also an essential part of festive occasions, often served alongside rice and dal or as an accompaniment to a grand meal.
Gohona Bori on a Bengali platter
Source – Not a Curry
Gohona Bori as a Form of Edible Art
Gohona Bori is special because it combines artistic expression with culinary expertise. The shapes and patterns are reminiscent of the elaborate designs found in temple carvings, terracotta art, and kantha embroidery, reflecting Bengal’s rich handicraft tradition.
There have been attempts in recent years to turn Gohona Bori from a custom of the home into an acknowledged kind of folk art. Its inclusion in artisanal food festivals and cultural exhibitions has been promoted by culinary historians and food preservationists. In order to give these dumplings more visual appeal, some artisans have even begun experimenting with natural colors by adding ingredients like beetroot and turmeric.
Gohona Bori
Source – BBC
Recognition and Revival Efforts
The tradition of Gohona Bori faces a number of difficulties despite its artistic and historical significance. Modern, fast-paced urban lifestyles do not align with the skill, patience, and time required for the meticulous process of making these dumplings. Because of this, fewer families are still engaged in this craft, raising questions about its continued existence.
However, in recent years, there has been a revival of interest in traditional food heritage, leading to initiatives to bring Gohona Bori back to life. Some of the development initiatives have included training, funding and financial support to artisans by the Government of West Bengal and numerous non-profit organizations. In fact, there are initiatives underway to get a Geographical Indication (GI) tag for Gohona Bori, which will actually protect its originality in the larger market and also promote it internationally. In Medinipur, some artisan groups began marketing packaged Gohona Bori in specialty stores and online platforms, making them available beyond Bengal. While this commercialization helps grow this beautiful practice, it also stirs questions on how one can stay true to the craft.
Packaged Gohona Bori
Source – Bigbasket
Challenges and the Road Ahead
Though revival efforts are promising, a number of obstacles remain. The production of Gohona Bori is time-consuming and weather dependent. Younger generations — wary due to the time-consuming nature of it — are less inclined to pick this up, preferring more stable and more lucrative occupations.
Mass production could snuff out the quirkiness of Gohona Bori as well. Machine-made boris have the same sour, crispy appearance but they’re a poor substitute for hand-piped ones. Events that balance tradition and innovation—be it through hosting workshops, tourism-based experiences, or cultural programs that highlight the importance of Gohona Bori—need to be introduced.
To keep this art alive, the blindfold of Bengali centricity needs to be unpinned. By documenting, exhibiting, and collaborating with food historians, chefs and cultural enthusiasts — the entire international culinary community — on promoting Gohona Bori, we can enable it to be a part of the collective memory of East India and the world.
Gohona Bori
Source – Olonkar Gohonabori
Intricate Artistry in Gohona Bori
Source – Telegraph India
Conclusion
Gohona Bori is a Balakan art that symbolizes the glorious culinary and artistic heritage of Bengal. Beyond being a food cooler, it is a symbol of history, process and cultural identity. While its future is uncertain, it is popularizing efforts to preserve this unique tradition.
With the growing awareness of food sovereignty and artisanal support, and creative marketing, Gohona Bori has the potential to be recognized and celebrated as an experiential masterpiece in edible art, beyond the geographical context of it all. Whether savoured in its crispy glory or appreciated for its intricate beauty, Gohona Bori is a manifestation of Bengal’s ageless tradition — one that deserves a prominent spot in India’s cultural and culinary lineage.
