
Threading the beads to form mala
Pot Mala and Galshan Mala of Jhabua and Alirajpur districts, Madhya Pradesh are crafts of beading traditional necklaces. The Bhil and Bhilala tribes string their thoughts. and beliefs into reality through the colourful beads which is a part of their heritage. As per Gazetteer of Jhabua (2000) the ornaments that are commonly worn are the bead- necklace, pot mala made of small glass beads and Galsad or Galshan necklace made of bigger glass beads.
The process of making a mala is a form of meditation where chanting with each bead brings peace. The art form, primarily practiced by the Adivasi women has now evolved to cater the world and earn livelihood by sharing their cultural identity.
Practices of the Past
Historically the origin of bead work can be traced back over 5000 years with similar traditions of masterful bead crafting evident in Indus Valley Civilization and Egyptian Civilization. Some historians believe it to have evolved after the craft of embroidery.

Seeds of the Gomchi plant that were used in the ancient times by the Adivasi women to create the malas
The Bhils are fond of adorning their body by tattooing and wearing different jewellery items. The Bhilalas primarily work as farmers, farm servants and field labourers. They are known for their multi–colored, embroidered garments and tattoos. The craft of making bead jewellery has been practiced by women in the families and the knowledge has been passed down through generations. In ancient times, Adivasi women made the traditional mala with the seeds of the Gomchi plant. By threading, they created an intricate pattern inspired by nature that upholds their spiritual and cultural beliefs.
According to historians like Dr. K.K. Trivedi and Dr. Ram Shankar Chanchal, the Galshan Mala and Pot Mala have been an integral part of tribal festivals like the weekly haats and Bhagoria Mela, where they symbolize agricultural success, social harmony and nuptial celebrations.
Tribal Symbolism and Significance
The unique designs of Galshan Mala and Pot mala are verbally pre–decided by the women. No sketches or graphs are made and most of the designs follow age old patterns with slight modifications in the choice of colours. Traditional tribal designs are crafted with great skill and patience, making each product unique and a beauty to behold.

Floral motifs crafted using geometric pattern
The motifs in Potmala and Galshan Mala reflect vivid narratives of spirituality, ties with nature and social structures. The traditional patterns are inspired from natural surroundings and highlight the biodiversity of the region. Floral Motifs like Phulki (Flower), Pati (Leaf), Hayedi (Vine patterns) form an integral part of the craft. The Bhil and Bhilala tribes pose nature as extremely sacred in their lives. Flowers symbolize renewal, creation and prosperity. The leaves and the veins symbolize interconnectedness of life and act as a reminder of the ties with nature. These designs are used mostly during festivals and marriages to represent the blossoming relationships and radiating joy.

A classic combination of red and black beads depicting geometric patterns
The geometric patterns are also crucial elements to formulate designs of Pot mala and Galshan Mala. The Bhils and Bhilalas associate geometric patterns like triangles, circles, concentrated lines with spirituality and universal balance. These patterns highlight their spiritual and cultural beliefs. The symmetry formed by the geometric motifs conveys the balance between nature and humans or cosmic harmony. Shapes like circles represent cycles of life and triangles signify stability and growth. These patterns honor ancestors, ensuring their guidance in the wearer’s life.
The designs of Pot Mala and Galshan Mala shed light on the social hierarchy and ritualistic traditions. Complexity of a necklace’s design elevates the maker’s stature in the community as it reflects her skills. Specific patterns and motifs denote symbols of clans or familial ties. Different colours of beads also signify ties to rituals and ceremonies. For instance – white beads embody purity and is worn during marriages and sacred occasions, green bead denote hope and fertility and are used during engagements and agricultural festivals, the combination of red and black, inspired by their tattoos and warpaints, harps upon the idea of strength and protection from evil spirits and negative energy. Malas with unique motifs also serve as gifts. and status symbols during courtship rituals. These designs and variations encapsulate the essence of cultural representation and artistic beauty.

A multicolour, layered Pot Mala
Threading the Beads
Modern practices incorporate glass, wooden and plastic beads sourced from Ahmedabad and Mumbai. Needles, threads, beads and bead holders are the main tools to create the masterpiece. The meticulous making process involves sorting of the beads by colour first. Then the women loop threads around their toe for tension and thread the beads in the pre imagined pattern. Finally they tie knots to end the chain of beads. This process is repeated multiple times to create complex designs and layers ultimately resulting in the desired pattern. This process is entirely manual and verbally instructed to achieve the highest quality craft.

Women crafting malas
Support and Evolution
The art thrives in Jhabua and Alirajpur as the women use the Pot mala and Galshan mala for personal use and commercial use. Other than necklaces, they also make earrings, bracelets and other jewellery items to cater to a broader customer base. Local fairs like Bhagoria Mela and other state level and national level exhibitions have served as a platform for sale of the products. Self help groups and training centres like the one run by Zila Panchayat of Jhabua help the women to adopt the traditional skills while empowering them and preserving the craft. Government initiatives like Madhya Pradesh Rural Livelihood Project arranges training programs and help the tribal women to access the market.
The craft, rooted to its traditions, embodies spirituality and aesthetic appeal that serves as a testament of Madhya Pradesh’s rich cultural heritage.

Contemporary design