BATIK : A Crackled Wearable Heritage of Madhya Pradesh

Batik, an ancient technique of wax resist dyeing, is one of the most significant textile tradition of India with Madhya Pradesh serving as the locus of its practice. This craft is celebrated for its vibrant patterns, natural dye and cultural depth, upholding the artisan’s diligence. The global origin of Batik is associated with Indonesia and with time the art has spread to different regions which has led to the adaptation and evolution of this technique. In Madhya Pradesh, the Batik art has given rise or distinct stylistic and thematic form that is rooted to their cultural identity.

History of Batik in India

The historical trajectory of Batik in India extends over two millennium with its technical references in ancient literary text and observed through the murals in Ajanta cave. These early representations upholds India’s long stand engagement with wax and dyeing as a functional and aesthetic medium. This was facilitated by the fusion of Southwest Asia and the Indian subcontinent through trade relations. The Gujarat trade route brought this tradition which was then adopted by the Khatri merchants. During the medieval period, it was transcended to Madhya Pradesh. With regional interpretations of Madhya Pradesh, this rich textile tradition emerge as a significance art form and became a center of batik production.

Dr. Ramesh Chandra Sharma, scholar of Indian textile history identify the Gupta period as a formative face for the Batik in the central India. The region’s abundant natural resources such as high quality cotton produced extensive with the help of its black soil and indigenous plant based dyes provided and ideal environment for the craft development. During the Indian Independence Movement, when Swadeshi Movement started gaining its momentum, to champion the cause of self reliance, the artisans of Ujjain, the Bherugarh and Chippa community practiced this artform and created a revival of the use of Batik. In this era, Batik is a symbol of sustainability creating consciousness about the environment.

Ujjain Batik and Regional Variations 

Ujjain has been a religious and cultural centre since the ancient times. It is deeply tied with the Buddist and Hindu culture making it a hub that developed over centuries. Rivers play a vital role in facilitating its transportation and trade, allowing cultural amalgamation like the Batik art. Ujjain Batik print is a traditional handicraft from Madhya Pradesh which has been awarded the Geographical Indication (GI) tag. This ensures its origin with the aims to protect and promote this traditional art form on a global scale​. It must be noted that the Kshipra River provides a reliable source of water for the dyeing processes and also support the cultivation of plants from with the natural dyes are extracted.

While Batik is practiced in other Indian states Madhya Pradesh’s version is distinct for its bold patterns. They differ from Gujarat’s intricate detailed design or West Bengal narrative driven story telling motives. Ujjain Batik art of Madhya Pradesh emphasizes on larger striking motifs often inspired by the tribal and natural elements of the region. Reliance on plant based dyes distinguish it’s style offering rustic charm and create a contrast with the brighter palette of other region. The elements of the motifs are rooted to its indigenous identity which makes it stand out.

Motifs and its Cultural Ties

Madhya Pradesh’s Batik art draws a diverse repitorate of motifs that encapsulate ecological spiritual and cultural themes.

• Flora and Fauna patterns motifs of lotus, mango, peacock reflect the regions biodiversity and its deep cultural association. In both Hindu and Buddhist beliefs, lotus signifies purity and transcendence. While the mango denotes fertility and abundance, the peacock symbolises beauty and grace. There are other floral motifs that reflect upon the regions diversity like hibiscus and other small indigenous flowers along with creepers, branches, leaves or buds of flowers. Other motifs like butterflies or small birds are also made depicting freedom and happiness. Artisans also use small designs of floral motifs which has evolved with time.
• Ceplok or Geometric designs of patterns like circles, triangles and grids have a roots to the tribal art traditions symbolizing interconnectedness and cosmic harmony. It is interesting to note that this cosmic harmony has been maintain throughout the world while practicing Batik art. Other geometric designs like Tik or dots, strokes and lines are not only use to fill the space but to divide the area for specific elements too. A delicate combination of dots and small line is often made to imitate a woven fabric which is known as Nitik. It is a consideration among people that these bring the other elements of the art together.
• Religious and Mythological symbols are also depicted in Batik art like any other indigenous art of Madhya Pradesh. This links the art form with spiritual practices of the region and their believe systems.
• Abstract motifs are evolving as artistic preference to integrate modern designs. In the global market it is important to cater to a larger audience and make the craft more relevant. Motifs are generally from the natural surroundings but the local transformation with the contemporary interpretation has introduced simplified patterns and innovative colour combination to suit the modern taste.

One of the evolving salient features of the Madhya Pradesh Batik art is that the artisans handpaint different designs over the batik print with vibrant colours. They even choose to make running stich to outline the painting and add more texture to it.

Process of Making and its Evolution

A unique method of resist dyeing inducing sand in the process was use to colour and create patterns on the fabric. This popularly came to be known as Dabu – a dyeing technique brought to Ujjain from Rajasthan. This was later replaced with Batik method that used wax instead of sand to create those printing patterns. The Batik art is a meticulous process and it requires artistic precision and technical experties.

• The artisans uses a melted wax to create the design of the fabric employing tool like the tjanting for intricate detailing or fine line and brushes for broader strokes.
• The wax fabric is then submerged into the dye bath where the wax resists the dye, preserving the original fabric colour. This process in repeated for each additional colour.
• The fabric is then dried in the sunlight and subsequent layer of wax and dye are applied for complex multi colour pattern. The wax is ultimately boiled to unveil the vibrant and intricate patterns.

The prominent color was Alizarine which is was characteristic of any tribal drapery and was made from the roots of the Madder plant. Before the Alizarine dyes, prints by the name of ‘Jodhpuriya’ were made for the Adivasis of Jhabua in Madhya Pradesh. This method of modern resist printing spread to Indonesia through the Indian traders and the technique of Indonesia batiks using a pen, Tjanting travelled back to India with the same set of merchants. Other colours were also derived from the natural sources like black colour from charcoal, yellow colour from turmeric, blue colour from indigo and so on.

Batik in Today’s Time

Batik has achieved both national and international acclaims. It must be noted that internationally it has spread along the trade routes since the ancient times and the art has evolved along the lines of its regional cultural practices.

The Madhya Pradesh Batik art has been celebrated for its sustainable production methods and timeless appeal and it has also created a base of consumers as the designer like Sabhyasachi Mukherjee and Ritu Kumar have integrated this textile pattern into their collection. Public figures like Vidya Balan and Kangana Ranaut have popularise Batik sarees. Global visibility has been boost by exhibitions, artisans fair and and increasing demand for eco friendly fashion with the use of e-commerce platforms have also enable the artists to reach wider audience. The accessibility of Batik art has direct relations with its preservation as its affordability and multifaceted use on garments and home decoration textiles like bedsheets and curtains have created a mass user base.

Batik, the art of wax and dye with intricate patterns and motifs stand as a testimonial of time that has been passed through generations and continues to evolve even today.