Kashmiri Carpet Weaving: Weaving Culture into Threads
Kashmir, often referred to as “Paradise on Earth,” is a region of natural beauty and a rich cultural heritage that stretches back thousands of years. Nestled in the northernmost part of the Indian subcontinent, Kashmir has been a crossroads of civilizations, shaped by influences from Central Asia, Persia, and the Indian heartland. Its unique position along ancient trade routes and its fertile valleys have made it a center for the exchange of ideas, art, and traditions, resulting in a vibrant and diverse cultural identity.
Throughout history, Kashmir has been home to an extraordinary blend of Hindu, Buddhist, and Islamic cultures, each of which has left a lasting impact on the region’s architecture, art, and crafts. From the grand Mughal gardens that line the shores of its lakes to the delicate art of pashmina weaving, Kashmir’s material heritage is a living testament to its history of innovation and artistic excellence. Among its most celebrated contributions to global culture is the art of carpet weaving, a craft introduced centuries ago by Persian artisans and perfected by generations of Kashmiri weavers.
Kashmiri carpet weaving is one of the most exquisite and intricate art forms from the region, renowned worldwide for its exceptional craftsmanship, unique designs, and centuries-old traditions. Deeply tied to the cultural fabric of Kashmir, the history of carpet weaving is a testament to the blend of Persian, Central Asian, and indigenous influences that have shaped the region’s material culture. This ancient craft, renowned for its fine materials, detailed motifs, and unparalleled quality, continues to hold cultural and economic significance both locally and globally.
Kashmiri Carpets (Image Courtesy – Outlook India)
Origins of Kashmiri Carpet Weaving
The birth of hand-knotted carpets, locally known as “Kal baffi,” dates back to the 15th century, after which the craft gradually evolved and reached a remarkable level of perfection. The art of carpet weaving in Kashmir dates back to the 15th century, when Sultan Zain-ul-Abidin, known as Budshah (the “Great King”), introduced skilled artisans from Persia to Kashmir. The Sultan, a patron of arts, culture, and architecture, encouraged these artisans to share their expertise in weaving fine textiles, including carpets. These master craftsmen brought with them the knowledge of carpet weaving, along with other crafts such as papier-mâché and embroidery. Persian motifs, techniques, and styles gradually blended with local traditions, resulting in the birth of the Kashmiri carpet (or “Kaleen”). But there are different stories pointing towards diverse origin of the Kshmiri carpets. One such lore is mentioned next. As per Kashmiri lore, the art of carpet weaving was introduced to the region by the revered Sufi mystic Hazrat Mir Syed Ali Hamdani. He is believed to have brought along a group of skilled artisans who began crafting exquisite carpets using local materials and traditional techniques. This infusion of expertise laid the foundation for what would become a cherished and time-honored craft in Kashmir.
Kashmiri weavers in karkhana; artist unknown (Image Courtesy: Kashmir Times)
Initially, Kashmiri carpets were heavily influenced by Persian designs and techniques. However, over time, local artisans began to infuse their own creativity, incorporating indigenous patterns and natural elements from the valley’s surroundings. This fusion of Persian elegance and Kashmiri aesthetics created a hybrid art form that became distinct from the purely Persian styles.
The Golden Era: When Kashmiri Carpet Weaving Flourished
Under the reign of Sultan Zain-ul-Abidin, the establishment of local factories, known as Karkhanas, gave rise to a thriving carpet weaving industry in the Kashmir Valley. However, after his rule, the industry experienced a significant decline, only to be revitalized during the reign of Mughal Emperor Jehangir. A pivotal figure in this revival was Saint Akhun Mulla Rahnuma, who, with the support of the then Governor of Kashmir in the early 1600s, helped restore the art of carpet weaving to its former glory.
Unfortunately, the industry once again faced hardship during the Afghan and Sikh rule, as Kashmir’s entire craft sector suffered a period of stagnation. It wasn’t until the mid-18th century that the carpet industry witnessed an unexpected resurgence, marked by improvements in both the quality and quantity of carpets being produced, leading to a new era of growth.
The craft flourished under the Mughal Empire (1526–1857), particularly during the reign of Emperor Jahangir (r. 1605–1627), who had a profound appreciation for the arts. Jahangir and his successors encouraged Kashmiri weavers to produce carpets for royal courts, which increased the demand for more elaborate and luxurious designs. The Mughal court not only provided patronage but also became an international market for Kashmiri carpets, spreading their fame across Central Asia, Persia, and even Europe.
Following the decline of Mughal rule, the patronage of carpet weaving by Sikh and Dogra rulers established a consistent demand for carpets, leading to the onset of commercial production. Kashmiri carpets garnered international attention when one crafted for Maharaja Gulab Singh was displayed at the Great London Exhibition of 1851.
This event marked a turning point, and in 1876, the visit of Mr. Chapman—the first European to travel to Kashmir—helped relaunch the industry. The economic growth of carpet manufacturing soon relied on new patrons from the West, with businesses like Mitchell & Company and Mr. C.M. Hadow playing pivotal roles in establishing production.
Carpets being transported worldwide from Kashmir (Image Courtesy: Scroll. in)
From 1851 to the early 1900s, Kashmiri carpets were celebrated for their exceptional quality and craftsmanship, earning numerous awards at exhibitions in Chicago (1893), Paris (1900), and London (1902, 1903, and 1906). While Persian and Turkish pile rugs stemmed from both settled and nomadic weaving traditions, Kashmiri pile rugs emerged from imperial karkhanas and later, British factories.
The booming carpet industry of the mid-1870s not only provided opportunities for unemployed kani shawl weavers but also incorporated various kani designs and the taleem system into production. Kashmiri artisans showcased their mastery in processing and producing pashmina yarn of different qualities, allowing them to make significant contributions to carpet weaving. This included the creation of exquisite pashmina pieces that represented the pinnacle of court workshop production. Their adept use of pashmina on silk foundations, with knot counts reaching or exceeding 2,000 per square inch in some instances, transformed the material into a viable pile fiber. Moreover, by mixing or combining dyed yarns, Kashmiri carpet weavers expanded the color palette of woven floor coverings, resulting in subtle aesthetic variations.
Crafting of Kashmiri Carpets
The art of carpet weaving in Kashmir is a cherished tradition, passed down through generations. Despite the advent of mechanized processes, most traditional weavers remain committed to the craft of hand-weaving, preserving the authenticity and beauty of each piece. The process of creating a Kashmiri carpet is labor-intensive, involving numerous steps—from the cultivation of silk or wool, to treating and dyeing the fibers, determining the intricate patterns, weaving, and finally applying the finishing touches.
In Kashmiri carpet-making, the roles are deeply rooted in tradition. The Nakaash is the designer, the Kalimba is the weaver, and the Ranger is responsible for dyeing the carpet. The weaver follows a Talim chart, a coded color map that guides the entire process. This chart specifies the exact number of knots to be tied, corresponding to the pre-determined color scheme. Each day, the master weaver reads the code aloud, and the assistants carefully follow the instructions, knot by knot, ensuring that every carpet is a true masterpiece of craftsmanship.
The creation of a Kashmiri carpet is a true art form, with its quality largely determined by the number of knots tied within it. Each carpet is handmade and hand-knotted, typically crafted from pure wool or pure silk, while lower-quality versions may consist of blends that include cotton and silk. Silk carpets are usually woven using Mulberry Silk, and their quality is assessed based on knot density; a count of 500 to 900 knots per square inch signifies exceptional quality and durability.
Weaving an intricate, high-quality carpet can take anywhere from eight to ten months. The higher price of Kashmiri carpets reflects the extensive labor and time invested in their creation. The magic of carpet weaving unfolds as entire families gather around a handloom, dedicating their days to this intricate craft. With unwavering focus and skill, they transform simple silk or wool threads into stunning designs, rich in color and detail. Each knot is a testament to their dedication and artistry, resulting in carpets that are not just functional but also beautiful works of art.
The loom used in Kashmiri carpet weaving consists of two horizontal wooden beams between which the warp threads are stretched—one beam positioned in front of the weaver and the other behind it. The key distinction between carpets and other handwoven rugs is that short lengths of thread or yarn are tied to the warp chains to create the carpet’s pile. These lengths are commonly referred to as knots, although they form a loop rather than a true knot.
There are various types of knots employed in carpet weaving, but in Kashmir, the Farsi baff and the Persian system known as the Sehna or Sinneh knot are traditionally used. The weavers rely on simple tools for threading these knots: a wooden or metal comb to tightly push the knots and weft together, and a pair of short scissors to trim the pile evenly once the carpet is finished. In Kashmir, carpets are commonly produced with a density of 18×18 or 20×20 knots per square inch. Some exceptionally fine silk carpets have been crafted with knot densities as high as 3600 knots per square inch, but these are rare exhibits of skill, primarily created for display or museum purposes.
Family of Weavers (Image Courtesy : Free Press Kashmir)
As the weaver works, the designs begin to emerge along the weft lines, typically using wool or silk, while the warp is woven with cotton. The quality—and, consequently, the value—of a carpet is determined by the number of knots per square inch and the fineness of the materials used.
Crafting Kashmiri carpets involves using some of the finest raw materials, including pure natural Mulberry silk, 100% Merino wool, and a perfect blend of wool and silk.
Weavers in Srinagar, Kashmir photographed by Frederick in c.1901; (Image Courtesy: Kashmir Times)
The carpet weaving process typically unfolds in three stages. The first step is the designing of the carpet, where motifs and patterns are finalized, followed by the selection of colors. After the color palette is chosen, the final layout is established. The weavers adhere to a written code known as Talim, which guides them in executing the design. Once the design and colors are finalized, the yarn is sent for dyeing and then left to dry in the sunlight.
Weaving of carpet (Image Courtesy : Daily Sabah)
The most critical part of the process is weaving, which occurs in several steps:
- The dried balls of dyed yarn are passed to the carpet weavers, who set them upon their looms.
- The weaver prepares a sturdy foundation using warp and weft threads. The warp runs vertically, while the weft runs horizontally.
- Weaving begins at the bottom of the loom, with the weaver passing several wefts through the warps.
- Knots of the dyed material are tied in rows around consecutive sets of adjacent warps, gradually forming the pile of the carpet.
- Between each row of knots, an additional section of weft is inserted to stabilize and secure the knots in place.
- The wefts are then beaten down using a comb-like instrument known as a comb beater, ensuring that the newly woven row is tightly secured within the carpet.
- Upon completion, the ends of the warp form the fringes, which are then either weft-faced or secured using other methods.
In Kashmiri carpet weaving, the colors and number of knots are indicated by signs, guiding the weaver as they chant the Talim and wind the warp around the loom. This chanting and coded method is considered more precise than the traditional graphic approach. As the carpet gradually takes shape, the knotting process continues, and the carpet is rolled back onto the loom.
The final stage in creating a Kashmiri carpet is the washing, a crucial step that adds the characteristic shine and luster. The carpets are washed using soap, bleaching powder, and other natural chemicals, followed by sun drying and then clipping to refine the pile. At this point, the carpet enters the finishing stage, which requires the skilled touch of artisans, especially in hand-knotted carpets, where every detail is meticulously completed by hand.
To enhance the carpet’s radiance, the pile is polished through constant rubbing—often with the feet—bringing out the brilliance in its texture. In modern times, mercerized cotton is sometimes used in the production, while the base is typically made from either cotton or silk, maintaining the traditional quality and durability of Kashmiri carpets.
This meticulous process combines artistry and skill, resulting in carpets that are not only functional but also breathtakingly beautiful.
Three women working on a carpet on loom; (Image Courtesy : Scroll.in)
Motifs and Symbols: The Language of Kashmiri Carpets
Kashmiri carpets are renowned not only for their craftsmanship but also for the rich symbolism embedded in their designs. The motifs and symbols used in these carpets often reflect the region’s cultural heritage, spirituality, and natural beauty.
Designs and patterns in Kashmiri carpets are deeply rooted in classical Persian and Central Asian influences, yet over time, Kashmiri artisans have developed their own unique interpretations and innovations. Initially inspired by Persian carpet weaving traditions, the weavers of Kashmir began to create distinct designs, contributing to the classification of these works as oriental carpets. As the craft evolved, new local designs emerged, blending tradition with the unique aesthetics of the region.
Some of the most iconic features of Kashmiri carpets include: – Gulabdar – The Kashmiri Rose, symbolizing beauty and grace.
– Tree of Life – A majestic depiction of a tree, often adorned with native birds, representing growth, spirituality, and the interconnectedness of life.
– Gumm – A maze-like pattern, offering complexity and intrigue.
– Bagdar – A garden-inspired view, bringing nature into the home.
– All Over – A fully spread floral design, covering the entire carpet with intricate blossoms.
– Dabdar – A geometric box pattern, creating symmetry and structure.
– Lotus – Inspired by the lotus flower, a symbol of purity and transcendence.
– Khatam Band – An intricate motif inspired by the traditional wood art of Kashmir.
In addition to these, Kashmiri carpets often feature motifs such as Hamdan, Ardabil, Kashan, Kirman, and Tabriz, all of which draw from Persian art. A notable innovation by Kashmiri weavers was the emergence of botanical-style designs inspired by “Western herbals,” incorporating the flowers of the Kashmir landscape into the patterns. This botanical influence can be seen as one of Kashmir’s significant contributions to the art form.
Tabriz Motif; (Image Courtesy:Government of Jammu and Kashmir)
Kirman Motif; (Image Courtesy:Government of Jammu and Kashmir)
The exquisite craftsmanship of Kashmiri carpets is recognized globally, with examples housed in prestigious collections such as the Maharaja Sawai Man Singh II Museum in Jaipur. Some of these pieces were displayed at the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s 1997 exhibition “Flowers Underfoot: Indian Carpets of the Mughal Era,” highlighting the unparalleled artistry of Indian weavers. Over time, Kashmiri carpets—originally reliant on Persian models—developed a distinct aesthetic, known for their use of the finest wool, natural dyes, and soft, silky textures.
A unique feature introduced during the Mughal period was the use of zari—fine threads of gold or silver—woven into the carpets to add an element of luxury and sparkle, further elevating these exquisite artifacts into timeless masterpieces.
In Kashmiri carpets, motifs carry deep symbolic meanings that reflect cultural beliefs and values. Birds, animals, and plants are commonly used to represent various aspects of life:
– Parrots symbolize life and vibrancy.
-Sparrows are associated with fertility and the promise of a good harvest.
– Palm, pear, and pomegranate trees are seen as symbols of fulfillment, blessings, and abundance.
– Roses signify prosperity and the flourishing of wealth.
Animals also carry significant meanings:
– Camels represent wealth and happiness, signifying a prosperous life.
– Lionsare symbols of loyalty and strength.
– Scenes depicting fighting animals are powerful metaphors for the eternal struggle between good and evil.
– The peacock, India’s national bird, symbolizes royalty and grace.
The colors used in Kashmiri carpets are also chosen with care, each carrying its own significance:
– Sky blue represents Persian national identity.
– Green is a sacred color for Muslims, often featured in prayer rugs, symbolizing peace and faith.
– Red conveys virtues such as joy, cheerfulness, and positive energy.
– Indigo blue suggests solitude and introspection.
– Black is generally avoided, as it is not associated with auspiciousness.
These motifs and colors infuse the carpets with layers of meaning, making each piece not just an artistic creation but a symbolic representation of life, faith, and culture.
Different types of motifs and their meaning; (Image Courtesy:Carpets of Kashmir)
Global Embrace: The Kashmiri Carpet’s Journey into World Art and Pop Culture
The Kashmiri carpet, with its intricate craftsmanship and timeless beauty, has transcended borders to become a symbol of luxury and cultural heritage on the global stage. Revered for its fine artistry and symbolic motifs, this craft has found a place in prestigious homes, museums, and royal collections across the world. From international exhibitions to the sets of Hollywood films, the Kashmiri carpet has woven itself into the fabric of global art and pop culture, celebrated for its elegance, sophistication, and the rich stories it carries within its knots.
In modern times, Kashmiri carpets have transcended their traditional role as luxurious home décor to become symbols of cultural refinement, featured in films, TV shows, and prestigious exhibitions. Kashmiri carpets are often associated with royalty, luxury, and heritage, appearing in the sets of period films that depict historical courts or lavish palaces.
Kashmiri carpets have indeed made subtle yet powerful appearances in films and television, often used to evoke a sense of luxury, heritage, and artistry. While specific examples might not always highlight the term “Kashmiri carpet” directly, several high-profile films and series have featured these carpets as part of their visual storytelling.
In films like Mughal-e-Azam (1960) and Jodhaa Akbar (2008), Kashmiri carpets have been used to emphasize the opulence of Mughal interiors. Their presence in these films highlights their historical significance as a symbol of wealth and artistry. Kashmiri carpets were used in the set design of The Grand Budapest Hotel to evoke an air of opulence.
Excerpt from movie Jodha Akbar depicting Kashmiri carpet(2008); (Image Courtesy – Curly Tales)
Other examples of the presence of Kashmiri carpets in television and films are the set of Downton Abbey (2010 – 2015), The Great Gatsby (2013), Skyfall (2012), Victoria & Abdul (2017), House of Cards (2013-2018), The Best Exotic Marigold Hotel (2011), Indiana Jones and the Temple of Doom (1984) and Aladdin (2019).
Excerpt from set of The Grand Budapest Hotel; (Image Courtesy: Dwell Magazine)
In countless legends and folklore, the magic carpet is a symbol of power, reserved for exceptional individuals. For instance, King Solomon’s legendary flying carpet transported him and his army across great distances, while Disney’s Aladdin (1992) showcased a magical carpet that carried Aladdin and Jasmine on their adventures. Since the early 20th century, carpets have been rolled out at major public and private events for dignitaries and heads of state, symbolizing prestige, elegance, and luxury. The phrases “red carpet event” and “red carpet treatment” have since become synonymous with importance and exclusivity, highlighting the significance of the occasion or the individuals involved.
Depiction of carpet in the movie Aladdin; (Image Courtesy: Kashmir Root Stock)
The Threat of Automation: How Machines are Displacing Traditional Carpet Weavers
As artificial intelligence and automation increasingly threaten jobs in developed countries, artisans in Kashmir face similar challenges with the mechanization of their craft. Globalization adds another layer of difficulty for these traditional weavers.
Machine-made shawls and carpets produced in Kashmir, as well as in China and Iran, are often much cheaper and are frequently misrepresented as handcrafted goods. This rich weaving tradition, passed down through generations since the 15th century, is now at risk of fading away as younger Kashmiris show less interest in continuing the work of their ancestors.
Despite the undeniable quality of handmade products, recent government census figures indicate a concerning decline in the number of weavers in Kashmir. Many items marketed as Kashmiri handcrafted rugs are, in fact, produced by machines in Iran and China. While two skilled artisans can take up to 12 months to create a hand-knotted silk rug measuring 1.2 meters by 1.8 meters, a machine can produce a similar piece in under three hours. The cost difference is striking: Chinese and Iranian machine-made carpets can be priced at less than $100 per square meter, whereas authentic Kashmiri hand-knotted silk rugs are significantly more expensive, as highlighted in a report by Al Jazeera.
Traditional set up of carpet weaving; (Image Courtesy: Al Jazeera)
Iram Shalbaf, a carpet manufacturer in Srinagar, shared in the Al Jazeera report that “carpets imitating Kashmiri patterns, made on machines in China with inferior silk, have flooded the global markets. My warehouse has several unsold carpets waiting for buyers for three to four years.”
According to the latest government figures cited in the Al Jazeera report, the value of handcrafted carpets exported from Kashmir dropped to $52.8 million in 2016-17, down from $70.3 million in 2014-15. Shah, the chief of the carpet makers’ association, emphasized that competition from automated manufacturers in China and Iran threatens the livelihoods of around 130,000 Kashmiris involved in the industry. This traditional cottage industry also provides employment for designers, dyers, washers, and traders.
Young Kashmiris increasingly view pashmina handicrafts as unprofitable and are pursuing other career paths. There’s a growing disconnect from the pride associated with pashmina culture, largely due to the exploitative nature of the industry. Many are now aspiring for jobs overseas and consider professions like engineering to be more prestigious than weaving.
Weaving of Carpet; (Image Courtesy : Selvedge Magazine)
Just a few years ago, the landscape was markedly different. In many villages, women would spin pashmina, contributing to a craft that represented cultural heritage and provided a stable, if modest, source of income.
Woman weaving a carpet; (Image Courtesy:The Print)
During the harsh winters when farms and orchards lay dormant under snow, families across the Kashmir Valley would turn to shawl and carpet making. Despite dedicating five to six hours a day for three or four months, artisans earned only around $570 for a single carpet. This income is no longer sufficient to motivate young Kashmiris to learn the craft, as reported by Al Jazeera.
The Current Landscape of Kashmiri Carpet Weaving and Its Industry
The price of a handmade Kashmiri carpet varies widely, ranging from approximately ₹7,000 to a staggering ₹20,00,000, depending on the craftsmanship and materials used. However, recent trends show a shift toward using mercerized cotton in carpet production, which has led to some price adjustments. Additionally, innovative techniques, such as computer-aided design through the Indian Institute of Carpet Technology (IICT) using software called Naqash, are becoming more common as they help artisans save time and reduce costs.
Despite the unique qualities and durability of Kashmiri carpets, both the art form and the artisans face significant challenges today. Issues such as limited financial resources, outdated dyeing and design technologies, and the influx of counterfeit carpets threaten the industry. G.H. Nabi Ganie, known for crafting some of the most expensive carpets in Kashmir, expresses concern over the survival of weavers, particularly in light of economic inflation. He highlights the difficulties of working with silk and cotton threads due to erratic electricity supply, especially after sunset.
Kashmiri Silk Carpet; (Image Courtesy:Selvedge Magazine)
The art of weaving is primarily practiced in rural areas of Kashmir, such as Baramulla and Budgam, along with certain colonies around Dal Lake and Achar Lake in Srinagar. Unfortunately, artisans in these regions often receive low prices from urban showrooms, who then sell the carpets at exorbitant rates, leaving the weavers at a disadvantage.
This industry is estimated to generate a turnover of around ₹650 crores, with a significant portion—approximately ₹412.45 crores—exported to countries like the United States, Germany, France, the United Kingdom, and those in the Gulf region. In response to the challenges faced by the carpet industry, the government is taking steps to revive the hand-knotted Kashmir rugs. Moreover, some young artisans are introducing modern designs, including calligraphy, to attract a new generation of buyers. Efforts to promote handicrafts more effectively aim to reignite interest in Kashmiri carpets globally, ultimately boosting sales and supporting the local economy.
Conclusion
In wrapping up our exploration of Kashmiri carpets, we find ourselves not just looking at intricate patterns and vibrant colors, but also at the heart and soul of a culture steeped in tradition. Each carpet tells a story—of skilled artisans who pour their passion and history into every knot, weaving generations of craftsmanship into beautiful works of art.
Despite the many challenges faced by this cherished craft, including mechanization and changing economic landscapes, the allure of Kashmiri carpets continues to captivate hearts around the world. There’s a unique magic in knowing that these carpets are not just products but pieces of a rich heritage that connect us to the land and its people.
As the industry navigates this complex journey, there’s hope. Efforts to embrace modern techniques while honoring traditional methods reflect a commitment to keeping this artistry alive. The support from the government and the interest of a new generation of artisans who are eager to innovate bring a renewed sense of optimism.
For those who choose to bring a Kashmiri carpet into their homes, it’s more than just an aesthetic choice; it’s a connection to a vibrant community of weavers and a way to honor their stories. By investing in these exquisite carpets, we help ensure that the legacy of Kashmiri weaving continues to thrive, providing sustenance and pride to the artisans behind the craft.
Ultimately, the tale of Kashmiri carpets is one of resilience and renewal—a testament to the artistry and spirit of those who continue to weave their dreams into every piece, inviting us all to be a part of their journey.
