Cambridge University Library in Cambridge, United Kingdom
Manchershaw Fakirjee Pithawalla (1872-1937) was an accomplished Indian academic realist painter who painted the famous watercolour album known as 'The Women of Bombay' in 1905. During this year, Pithawalla was commissioned by the people to create this watercolour album, which focused on the different communities in Bombay. When Queen Mary, Princess of Wales at the time, came to visit India, this album was offered to her as part of the welcome reception for the women of Bombay. The book includes a collection of elegant and beautifully illustrated images of various women from different communities of Bombay. This included women from the Parsi community, Muslim women including Khoja, Memon, Sulaimani, Mogul, and Kokni communities and Hindu women including Brahmin, Maratha, Purbhu, Bhattia and Marwari communities, among others. Pithawalla has elegantly blended together the elements of Western academic realism and cultural documentation while being keen on depicting accurate traditional costume, headgear, jewellery, fabrics and posture of the subjects.
Representations of South Asians in Europe from the late nineteenth century and early twentieth century often took the form of colonial stereotypes – nameless and depersonalised individuals who exist solely to highlight their caste affiliation or dress. Yet by employing the strictest standards of academic portraiture, Pithawalla subverts these interpretations. Each subject is portrayed as a unique person with his or her own expression, gesture, and innate dignity. Thus, the gallery provides a history of the textile tradition and ornamental practices of early twentieth century society. This is accomplished by portraying elements like the muslin clothing and kor of the textile pieces, as well as large-scale silks and the Parsi gara sarees with their embroidery. Ornamental jewellery pieces like forehead ornaments, pearl necklaces, nath nose rings, and bracelets made of either glass or gold are illustrated in accordance with their anatomical form and physical properties.
These clothes highlight the position of Bombay as a global hub for trade where the native weaving techniques had been combined with fabrics imported from Europe, Persia, and East Asia. This photo album presents a self-representation of Indian womanhood. As the album was compiled by the women of Bombay themselves, the pictures presented by Pithawalla are imbued with a sense of civic identity and presence.
Manchershaw Fakirjee Pithawalla’s “The Women of Bombay” is a splendid work presenting a wide range of topics. Unlike many other works featuring Indian women, this one is not built on portraying females as secondary characters in the colonialist narrative. Instead, the author uses Western depictions of Indian people to highlight the uniqueness and beauty of each of his female protagonists. The deep knowledge of the cultural heritage of Parsis is reflected in the numerous images of traditional clothing, including the distinctive Parsi gara saree, and jewelry. The beauty and diversity of Bombay’s numerous communities and its role as a cultural and trade center are also frozen in these photos. As a gift from the city’s women, this album signifies the self-confidence of Bombay’s women and its cultural and commercial significance, which has long been recognized by the public.
