Warping Tales and Wefting Heritage: Chaddars of Solapur

Introduction 

In the undulating plateaus of Solapur, the textiles created by the wrapping and wefting of weavers have secured them a special place in the inked parchments of history. Here, the Solapuri Chaddar, i.e., Solapuri Blanket, occupies a distinct position. The economy of Solapur is heavily reliant on these textile commodities, which include blankets, terry towels, synthetic clothes, silk items, and much more. According to S.S. Vernekar, the textile industry in Solapur, in general and the  Chaddar industry in particular, provided direct and indirect employment to more than 2 lakh people in the year 1993. This is a testament to the crucial significance of Solapuri Chaddar not just as a Maharashtrian craft heritage, but also as a financial and cultural pillar for people. 

Solapuri textile products have been known for more than a century for their refined quality. The erstwhile handloom industry of Solapur was quite popular in western India, illustrated by the census of 1961, wherein of the 2,48,771 workers engaged in industries, 65,706, i.e., 27 percent, were employed in household industries. The Solapuri Chaddar is also referred to as the Jacquard Chaddar due to its machine-manufactured nature, and this affinity for having a special quality found nowhere else earned this product a Geographical Indication tag in 2005 and international recognition. 

The Threads of the Past 

As apprised by the Solapur District Gazetteer, the handloom weaving sector in Solapur appears to have been initiated during the reign of the Peshwas. Professor M. G. Bhasin remarked on how the production of Chaddars started from the 18th century, due to patronage by Madhavrao Peshwa. The establishment of Madhavrao Peth, present-day Mangalwar Peth, in the late eighteenth century pulled numerous traders and artisanal communities from the Nizam’s regions, including some caste-weaver families like Khetri and Momin. According to the Padmashalis, they were invited to Solapur by the Peshwas; however, due to the tumultuous political climate in the district at that time, the industry did not significantly develop in Solapur. Solapur, after independence, steadily increased its significance as a trade hub with the enhancement and expansion of roads, along with improved and more affordable communication options, which contributed to the growth of the handloom weaving industry in the region. 

The first mill of Solapur, i.e., the Juni Mill, established in 1876, has contributed immensely to Solapur’s burgeoning economy in the twentieth century. As aforementioned, the Jacquard Chaddars of Solapur are called so because of the machinery developed by the French technician, Mr. Jacquard. These machines manufactured Solapuri Chaddars for the very first time, giving them prompt figure motifs and designs in an efficient manner. Though facing decline in contemporary times, the Jacquard Chaddar, with the development of co-operatives in Solapur, popularised this textile tradition far and wide. 

Production Processes: A Holistic Look 

As stated in the Textile Development Foundation’s application for GI tag, there are many stages involved in the production of Chaddars, which are: Dyeing, Winding, Pirn winding, Warping, Weaving, Cutting, Finishing, Bundling and Bale Packing. The colourless yarn is washed with a wetting agent and submerged; later, the yarn is bleached and taken for antichlorination. After this, the resultant item is dyed with several dyes, like direct dyes and vat dyes. Further, the dyed yarns are transferred on flanged bobbins in the case of warp and on cones in the case of weft with the help of winding machines. In the weaving process, two beams are attached to the power loom for warping and wefting. The design is made on the desired product with the aid of the Jacquard machine attached to the loom. 

In big units of production, handlooms and power looms are replaced by Air Jet or Shuttle Less. These machines produce four times more than traditional machines, with more refined qualities, and also reduce labour requirements. After weaving, the product is cut according to required measurements, finished by workers, and later, bundled with each bundle of five pieces and each bale of 10-20 bundles. 

Stylistic Motifs and Visual Design

The Chaddars are organised into myriad styles based on their layouts and arrangement patterns, rather than particular motifs or colours. These styles are: Jamuna Deluxe, Jamuna, Dollar, Nilima, Supreme, Carpet, Navrang, and President. Each style has a very specific type of pattern that distinguishes it from the other patterns on the Chaddars. Within these styles, more designs exist that are further defined by different names that are typically feminine in nature. Indraja is a type of chaddar in the carpet form that features two circular central rings, and Mayurpankhi refers to any chaddar that is double-sided.

Artisanal Conditions and Lifestyles

The Padamshali weavers live in Solapur, with an average family consisting of six to eight members, and practice in the Solapuri Chaddar sector actively. Generally, they work from home with handlooms or power looms with their surrounding families. Oftentimes, these skilled artisans are recruited by corporations and big units as well, which boosts their monetary conditions. Chaddar products range in price from INR 100 to INR 1000 based on the quality of the raw material, and it can be said that workers make an average weekly income of INR 1000 approximately. The community adheres to their southern rituals and customs, predominantly honoring deities such as Shiva and Naaga.

A Rise and Retrograde Phenomenon: Hopes for Silver Lining? 

There was immense growth in looms in Solapur, producing these Chaddars in the 1990s. The primary reasons for that are: favourable geographical location and climatic conditions of Solapur, cheap labour availability, easy availability of raw materials in the vicinity, low cost of production, and lastly, in 1955, the powerloom units with less than five units were exempted from excise duty charge. This gave a major stimulus to the powerloom industry. However, as reported by The Hindu, only 10 percent of the workers of Solapuri Chaddar are still in business, while the rest have shifted to terry towel production. Therefore, the government and we, as consumers, have a responsibility to inculcate awareness about this craft and enhance their intellectual property rights. 

Conclusion: Crafting a Rejuvenated Future

In 2021, pop-star Nick Jonas was seen sporting a Solapuri Chaddar shirt, which attracted the netizens and encouraged manufacturers that this may uphold the relevance of this GI-tagged product. These cotton chaddars are renowned for their durability, comfort, and ecologically friendly production nature. Each Chaddar is crafted with honed skills, intricacy, and precision, which is portrayed through its illustrious feel and appeal. The preservation of these textiles is less about reviving an aesthetic and more about social and cultural responsibility of rejuvenating the artisans, uplifting the women involved in production, and thereby supporting craft heritage and people simultaneously.

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