A Feast of Kerala culture : Exploring Sadya and Thalassery Biryani

Safna Premji
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Passionate about uncovering the past and fascinated by the stories buried within earth. checkout my posts ,to get insights on different art forms of kerala

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Introduction

Keralan cuisine is more than mere food; it’s a rich tapestry made from local customs, centuries of cultural interchange, and a strong bond with the land and the sea. Kerala’s rich history and different communities are reflected in its culinary art, which ranges from the communal feasts of Onam to the fragrant biryanis of Malabar.

(Image: thalassery biriyani) (Image source: zeezest)
(Image: sadya ) (Image source: Redbus)

Origins 

The state’s vital place as a center for the spice trade has shaped the cuisine’s origins, which dates back to more than 3,000 years. Spices like cardamom, turmeric, and black pepper were brought to international markets through commercial activity , according to ancient accounts like Sumerians. The distinctive flavors of Kerala’s cuisine were shaped by these spices, which became essential to regional cuisine.

Kerala’s cuisine was further enhanced by the arrival of many communities. Rice and spices were imported by Arab traders, while red chilly, tomatoes, and potatoes were brought by Portuguese in the fifteenth century. Kerala’s openness to cultural integration is reflected in its own culinary culture, which was created through the blending of these influences with indigenous customs. Christians, Muslims, and Hindus have made distinct contributions to the state’s cuisine and cooking methods.

(Image :Kerala spice markets)(Image source: Kerala spice wholesale)

Sadya: a rich vegetarian meal

[Image: A Sadya feast showcasing the diversity of delicacies served on a banana leaf](Image source: The Established)

Through the support of royal courts, temple festivals, and communal feasts, Kerala’s culinary arts developed. This custom is best demonstrated by the Sadya, a lavish vegetarian feast presented on banana leaves. It has a wide variety of foods that represent community and plenty, such as :

  1. Sambar -a tangy lentil-based curry enhanced with a range of vegetables and seasoned with tamarind and a mixture of spices. It is the main curry which is usually served in the directly in the rice
  2. Avial -a  dish prepared with a coconut base with a variety of vegetables, including drumsticks, beans, and carrots. Curry leaves and coconut oil are commonly used to season this meal, which is renowned for its mild spiciness.
  3. Kootu curry -it is  thick, slightly flavored curry made with legumes like Bengal gram and vegetables including plantains, ash gourds, and yams. Particularly in the central and northern parts of Kerala, the dish is a major component of the Sadya and is distinguished by its earthy flavors.
  4. Erissery– Pumpkin and lentils are combined with a mixture of spices and grated coconut to make erissery. It is a great addition to the Sadya because it provides a mix of sweetness and spice.
  5. Kaalan -cooked with raw banana or yam and flavored with spices and a touch of sourness, kaalan is a thick curry cooked with yoghurt. In contrast to the other Sadya dishes, it has a rich texture and a sour flavor.
  6. Olan -Ash gourd and black-eyed peas are the main ingredients of Olan, a mild stew that is cooked in coconut milk and flavored with curry leaves and green chilly. It is a refreshing part of the Sadya because of its delicate flavors.
  7. Pulissery -it is a yogurt-based curry that is seasoned with curry leaves and mustard seeds and cooked with ripe mangoes or ash gourds. It gives the Sadya a slightly spicy and acidic touch.
  8. Theeyal– it is a curry cooked with roasted coconut and veggies like bitter melon, okra etc. The dish’s deep, smokey flavor and black color define it.
  9. payasam -sweet kheer vermicelli at the end of sadya, this balances the meal

Cultural Importance

(Image :Aranmula valla sadhya )(Image source: OnManorma)

Sadya is a celebration of Kerala’s agricultural wealth and the kindness of nature. The meal’s varied menu, which frequently consists of more than 25 dishes, highlights the area’s culinary prowess and seasonal ingredients. Every meal, from the sweet payasam to the spicy sambar, expresses the community’s thankfulness for the crop and its abundance.

Spiritual rituals in Kerala are closely linked to sadya. The first serving is served to Lord Ganesha, who represents the getting rid of challenges after the preparation is started with a prayer to Agni, the fire deity. In keeping with the state’s respect for nature, the lunch is served on a banana leaf, which is an environmentally responsible and biodegradable option.

The region’s dedication to maintaining its culinary culture is demonstrated by the use of locally sourced products, traditional cooking techniques, and the removal of onions and garlic from numerous meals. The harmony and moderation that characterise Keralan culture are reflected in the meal’s structure, which features a balance of flavours and textures.

Thalassery biryani: a rich non-veg meal

The northern Keralan seaside town ‘Thalassery’ has long been a major center for maritime trade. Thalassery Biryani was created as a result of the local Mappila Muslim community combining several culinary techniques brought by Arab, Persian, and European traders. In contrast to other biryanis that use long-grain basmati rice, this one uses the short-grain, aromatic Kaima or Jeerakasala rice that is native to the area. The cooking process, called “dum” cooking, is layering marinated meat with partially cooked rice, closing the container, and cooking it over low heat.

(Image source: shahnaz rafiq)

Biryani is traditionally served with

  • grated coconuts mint leaves and green chilly and spices are combined to make a fiery coconut mint chammandi.
  • Raita, it is a yogurt based side dish with chopped onions, green chilly, lemon, cucumber.
  • Pickles, it is a spicy and sour side dish. lemon, dates, mango etc. are most commonly accompanied pickles .
  • To improve digestion, suleimani is often served at the end, it is a hot black tea flavored with lemon and spices

Cultural Importance

In Malabar, thalassery biryani is a staple of many religious and cultural festivals. It represents hospitality and harmony within the community and is a common sight at weddings, celebrations like Eid, and communal feasts. Making and eating the meal together strengthens links to one another and to one’s culture. The region’s dedication to conserving its culinary legacy is demonstrated by the use of regionally produced things and traditional cooking techniques.

References to Pop Culture

Keralan food has greatly influenced popular culture, especially through Malayalam films. The state’s culinary treasures, which include dishes like Malabar biryani and Keralan curry, have been showcased in films like Salt N’ Pepper (2011) and Ustad Hotel (2012).

(Image: showcasing thalaserrry biriyani in the filim usthad hotel) (Image source: cinema chaat)
(Image:biriyani making scene from the filim Ustad Hotel)(Image source: youtube).

In addition to showcasing the cuisine, these films also portrayed the significance of cooking and dining in Keralan culture. Keralan cuisine has gained international attention as a result of the representation of food as a storytelling medium.

Conclusion

Kerala’s culinary traditions best represented by Sadya and Thalassery Biryani remain dynamic in the present day, adjusting to modern palates while maintaining its cultural identity.

There was a notable spike in demand for Sadya in 2024, as seen by the 60% rise in bookings reported by hotels and catering businesses. This increase highlights Sadya’s continued appeal to locals and the Malayali immigrants. Nonetheless, there is an increasing focus on making Sadya more health-conscious as dietary habits change. Concerns about its high calorie content and the requirement for nutritional balance have been brought to light by experts. In response, efforts are being made to preserve the traditional flavors while encouraging healthier options through culinary innovations.

Famous culinary legacy from Kerala’s Malabar region, Thalassery Biryani is still popular today, adjusting to current tastes without sacrificing its true flavour. Restaurants like Chennai’s Ajwa Thalassery Dum Biryani serve authentic dishes with traditional accompaniments like onion raita and date pickle, its appeal has spread beyond geographical borders.

(Image :Biriyani in a bentobox)(Image source: indulge express)

Thalassery Biryani served in Bento boxes is one example of an innovative presentation that combines traditional flavours with modern convenience. To accommodate a range of dietary requirements, several restaurants have also included alternatives including vegetarian and seafood selections.

References

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