Rajasthan’s Radiant Legacy: Exploring Exquisite Meenakari Jewellery Designs

Introduction

The culture of jewellery making in India is as old as that of the Indus Valley Civilisation. It has flourished within this country for many years. The most basic jewellery were the bead necklaces worn during the Indus age. Beads made of terracotta, jasper, carnelian, steatite, and faience were mostly used to make the necklace. These exotic materials made the necklaces one of the unique culture arts from Indus Valley Civilization. Jewellery making was not only limited to the Indian subcontinent, but also was widespread in  Egyptian and Mesopotamian civilisations. The beads were later on exchanged with metal ornaments, which consisted of gold, silver, copper and even bronze. The artisans and smiths have always been skilled and talented in making unique designs in India, which attracted traders from the Roman, Arab, and East Asian regions. Meenakari jewellery is one of the Indian art forms from Medieval times, which has a metal surface with vibrant colours, designs and patterns. This art form is mainly based in Jaipur, Rajasthan, which has attracted traders from faraway lands and still attracts tourists from other regions today.

How it flourished

The art form of Meenakari jewellery is one of the age-old crafts that has been practised in Rajasthan along with other famous traditional arts. This art form is believed to originate from the city of Persia, it travelled from there to India in the 16^th century. The Mughals were the ones to introduce this craft in India. Akbar expanded the influence of this art while he was in power.  This craft was initially used for decorating the interiors of the Mughal palaces, which include ceilings, walls and even thrones. It evolved into a more decorative form of jewellery over time. The intricate designs in this art form are etched onto the metal surface, it is then filled with various kinds of colours of enamel. Meenakari craft is usually associated with Jaipur, Rajasthan, from where it is exported all over the world. Besides Rajasthan, Meenakari is also popular in Uttar Pradesh, Gujarat and West Bengal.

Process of making Jewellery

There are several steps involved in making Meenakari jewellery that require patience, skill and attention to detail. The steps are described below:

• First, the base metal has to be prepared; copper and silver are usually used for it. Surface of the metal has to be cleaned thoroughly to remove any oil, dirt or grease.
• Then the object has to be designed and enamelled, this design is traced or drawn onto the metal surface with a fine-tipped brush
• The next step involves engraving on the metal surface. The metal is engraved using a small chisel or burin once the design is completed. Engraving leaves small cells which will be filled with enamel.

• Once the engraving is completed, the metal is burned in a kiln to fuse it with the design of the surface of the metal.
• Then the metal is coated with a layer of white enamel, which serves as the base for the colours that will be added later on.
• After the above process, the metal is once again burned in a kiln to set the white enamel.
• The artist then applies colours to the cells in the design with the help of a brush. Different colours are filled in each of these cells, then the colours are allowed to dry fully.
• After the enamel dries up completely, the metal object is then polished with a mixture of charcoal and oil to remove any excess amount of enamel.
   
• The object is finally burned again in the kiln for the last time to set the enamel properly and to give the object a glossy finish.
• In the final step, any additional decorative materials, such as beads or stones, are attached; earring hooks and necklace chains are some of the finished products of this whole process.

Motifs and Styles

The motifs on Meenakari jewellery symbolises spirituality. Motifs usually comprise of peacock, and paisleys which are associated with Gods and Goddesses, all of them are believed to bear good luck. The colours represent different emotions and elements of nature, like green symbolises fertility and prosperity, red represents love and passion, white for purity and peace, and blue for divine and spirituality. There are different types and styles of Meenakari pieces of jewellery, some of them are given below:

• Bracelet with a thicker size than a bangle is known as ‘Meenakari Kada’.
• The ‘Kundan’ version of this kada has gemstones embedded in it.
• Cuff version or Meenakari cuff bracelet has a broad size and it is often worn as a statement piece; some of these cuffs have embedded semi-precious
   

  stones.

• Another Kada type, Meenakari ‘Rajwadi kada’ has an openable bracelet, it is embedded with pearl and enamel work and it is mostly worn by brides.
• ‘Pacheli’ bangle type is a gold-plated bracelet, it has semi-precious stones and pearls embedded in it with bright kind of enamel work.
• ‘Karni’ bracelets have two heads of it decorated with peacock and elephant motifs and it has bands covered with beads
• The last type is beaded Meenakari bracelet which is flexible in nature, which has Meenakari centrepiece in gold or silver. It has strings of emerald or ruby beads on its either side, and it also have pearls to hold it together.

Present condition of Meenakari

In comparison to other traditional crafts like Lac bangles, Meenakari jewellery has not decreased in popularity and demand. The cost of these Meenakari jewellery as mentioned in the above section differs according to the kind of material it is usually made out of, like, gold enamel, glass enamel and silver. But each piece of this traditional craft has its own heritage. Meenakari jewellery has been worn for various occasions in Indian traditions. Brides wear it during ‘saat pheras’ in weddings, for Diwali, Dusshera, Ganesh Chaturthi and even on Eid, this jewellery is worn by many women. Bracelets have been a new addition in this style of jewellery after necklace; these bracelets are trendier in this modern world. Girls and women now wear bracelets with their matching attire or even with informal dresses.

Conclusion

Meenakari jewellery has adapted to the ways of modern world which has ensured its popularity all over India. The craftsmen or artisans have devised new techniques and designs which are taken largely from nature itself as the inspiration for the designs. Unlike other folk crafts of Rajasthan, this particular craft of Meenakari has not met with much challenge till this day, and it continues to thrive with time. If the other traditional artforms in jewellery of Rajasthan can replicate the success of Meenakari in being relevant for the modern world, it would then not struggle to survive in the jewellery and tourism industry of Rajasthan, India and in the world.

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