Tales in Twisted Silver: A Tribute to Odisha’s Filigree Craft.

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(An intricately made work of silver filigree depicting Lord Jagannatha, Subhadra and Balabhadra, made in Cuttack, Odisha)

Also known as the cultural capital of Odisha, Cuttack is known for a handful of things, say it be the rich historical significance it has or the narrow alleys which reminds about the forgotten old cities; from the golden hours at the bank of Mahanadi, to the endless street food stalls, which fulfills its entirety, but the point of discussion here is something else. An art, which acts as the heartbeat of this city, the sound of which comes from the rhythmic tapping of tiny hammers on silver in the bustling lanes of Cuttack. For centuries, the passionate and hardworking craftsman of this city are breathing life into this silver tapestry, weaving numerous tales through delicate spirals and patterns. This is the realm of “Rupa Tarakasi”, an age old filigree craft, which has transformed Cuttack as the glittering silver capital of India.

Rupa Tarakasi: Let’s Break it Down:

(Depiction of Sun wheel from the Sun temple of Konark as silver filigree work. Source: Zineart)

At its core, silver filigree or what we call “Rupa Tarakasi”, is a traditional art form, in which artisans cleverly twist, curl and twist many silver wires into an incredible yet delicate objects, composed of intricate designs. While the term per se stands for Silver (Rupa) and filigree work (Tarakasi), its importance lies within the indigenous technique, which is so delicate that the final product is made from strands of silver lace, but there’s more to it. Over the years, Rupa Tarakasi has come a long way than just being used for jewellery, which includes delicate frames, ornate idols, and even architectural replicas, displaying the artistic acumen of the craftsman. Incredibly detailed, this craft can be seen from the smallest of earrings to the massive silver backdrops, used in festivals and temples.

Beginning of Something Shiny

This famed craft of Odisha, is deeply intertwined with the cultural and commercial history of Cuttack city, one of the prominent commercial hub of Eastern coast since the Early Mediaeval period. From long ago, silver is associated with purity, rituals and other auspicious ceremonial occasions across India. Historians trace back silver filigree works in Cuttack to the mid-16th century, during the reign of Bhoi dynasty, which denotes an important period of significant growth in artisanal and temple based craftsmanship. But it was during the Mughal reign in Odisha, when the Persian artisans from the Mughal empire had brought their expertise in this beautiful craft of intricate designs, which later got acculturated by the native counterparts and flourished in the city of Cuttack due to its strategic and cosmopolitan position as well as its commercial importance, making it a melting point where both indigenous and foreign elements fused together to mark the origin of something significant. Unlike their Persian counterparts, Odisha’s native Tarakasi art began to incorporate elements of temples, architecture, local mythology and folklores, developing it into something uniquely rooted in the cultural landscape of Odisha and for which, it established itself as an identity of greater importance as well as symbolized opulence for the royal households, temple rituals, and festival processions.

(An artist showing his Tarakasi work. Source: The Indian Express)

While one can find the practice of Rupa Tarakasi across few places in Odisha, the city of Cuttack remains the undisputed home for this craft, which justifies its epithet as the “Silver City of Odisha”. While roaming around the city, one can easily find these craftsman in the local market, be it Nayasadak, Balu Bazaar or Mangalabag, where it’s very easy to locate hundreds of shops filled with shining filigree ornaments, wedding accessories and souvenirs. The craft has also expanded into making idols, decorative pieces and even customized gifts for our loved ones. If someone wants to see the beauty of this work at its fullest, my suggestion would be to visit Cuttack during the Durga Puja and the following Bali Yatra(Sand Festival) season, where one can witness the true charm of these silver filigrees at its peak.

(Rupa Tarakasi Jewellery from Cuttack, Odisha. Source:)

When The Craftsman Becomes An Alchemist

Creating any good craft will take a lot of time and immense amount of passion to make, which is the same case with Rupa Tarakasi. It takes almost two to three weeks of time to finish the entire process from the very beginning, depending on the complexity of the product. The process begins with the melting and drawing of pure, unadulterated silver, which is then drawn into thin and dine wires, sometimes even thinner than a strand of hair. Once made, these wires are curled into delicate patterns such as flowers, vines, birds and even geometric shapes. After giving these wires any particular shape, these filigrees are then attached onto a silver base through soldering, developing every design layer by layer. The final stage in this process is the polishing of the final product to give it a soft and shiny glow, but sometimes, these pieces are also oxidized on demand, which gives it a blackened antique look. While the tools used for making this art might look simple, but it’s a game of precision, where one single mistake can make days of hard work futile.

(An Tarakasi artist’s workshop in Cuttack, Odisha. Source: The stories of change)

Innovations and Challenges

Like every other traditional craft work, Rupa Tarakasi of Cuttack has also its  fair share of challenges like the skyrocketing prices of silver, which is making the raw material used for this traditional craft expensive day by day; the craft itself is facing its decline, due to the lack of enthusiasm in the younger generation in inheriting this generational profession due to the reduced share of profit; in the current scenario, where factory based machines can replicate thousands of jewellery in one day, this serves as a serious challenge to this traditional craft, further threatening handmade artistry.

(A lady showing the intricacy of Tarakasi art. Source: The Hindu)

But when there’s darkness, there’s hope of light, which takes us to the innovative ideas of the modern artisans, who are experimenting with contemporary design, fusing traditional motifs with modern aesthetics to appeal the younger buyers. Modern day designers are also integrating Rupa Tarakasi into their works, promoting its identity on the global stage vial fashion shows, luxury collections and international exhibitions. Additionally, the recent award of the Geographical Indicator (GI) tag in 2024 has brought this craft into limelight and efforts by institutions such as handicraft designing and training centres are giving this a new life.

Conclusion

Rupa Tarakasi is more than just a work of silver, it’s a living tradition as well as a symbol of a rich artistic legacy and Odisha’s cultural soul, where every piece carries a different story of patience, passion and the living culture, along with the creativity and precision. When today’s world is progressively moving towards machine made uniformity, crafts like Rupa Tarakasi are the living evidence of the unmatched beauty of handmade value to our heritage and the timeless charm of silver.

References
 
Odisha Handicrafts Development Corporation. (n.d.). Filigree Silver Craft of Cuttack.
 
Singh, K. S. (2003). People of India: Odisha, Anthropological Survey of India.
 
Ministry of Textiles, Govt. of India. Crafts of India.
 
Mishra, R. (2021). “Silver Filigree of Cuttack: Struggles and Surges.” Indian Express.
 
UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage Records – Odisha Crafts.
 
Field interviews and artisan profiles from odishatourism.gov.in

 

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