GLIMMERING LEGACY : THE TIMELESS BEAUTY OF GOLD JEWELRY OF BENGAL

Introduction

Bengal jewelry occupies a special niche in the vast canvas of artistic and cultural heritage. Bengali gold jewelry has also been envied for its fine craftsmanship, unique motifs, and symbolic connotations-an amalgamation of tradition, customs, and aesthetics. The gold ornaments of Bengal speak of a synthesis of tradition and artistic interpretation-an expression of purest art. From exquisite filigree work bordering on the mundane to great gold jewels adorning blooming brides, Bengali jewelry shines as bright as a glittering star.

History and Development

Bengal’s jewelry heritage can be traced back to ancient time. Various dynasties including the early Mauryas and Guptas and early medieval Palas (8^th to 12^th Centuries) and Senas (11^th to 12^th centuries) of Bengal left their influence on this craft. Temple sculptures historical records and religious texts reveal that jewelry was entrenched in Bengali culture worn by both men and women. In the Mughal times designing of jewelry flourished, incorporating Persian and Islamic influences along the indigenous motifs.  Under British rule new techniques and style including filigree and intricate metal work were introduced, further embellishing the repertoire of local jewelry. Bengali artisans became renowned for the mastery of their gold jewelry and Kolkata became famous as a center of handcrafted gold pieces by talented swarnakars. The elaborate and ornate naksha or filigree work which is still in demand developed as a signature style in this period. After independence too, the Bengali jewelry industry continued to thrive.

Materials and Craftsmanship

The hallmark of Bengali jewelry is its use of superior materials and meticulous craftsmanship.

Gold has always been the most representative metal for wealth, prosperity, fortune, and purity. The artisans of Kolkata and rural Bengal are known for their rich and warm creations in 22-Karat gold.

Precious and Semi-Precious Stones: Adding some beautiful colors and grace in the form of rubies, emeralds, and diamonds is a common practice. Vintage collections have semi-precious stones like turquoise and coral that add colors and designs to jewelry. Jewelry with Navaratna (nine gems, i.e.: ruby, pearl, red coral, emerald, yellow sapphire, diamond, blue sapphire, hessonite, cat’s eye) are not only about astrology and their beliefs but are very classy treasured heirloom.

Techniques used by the artisans are specialized and diverse –

Filigree (Naksha) : Delicate patterns resembling lace are formed by twisting thin gold or silver wires.

Repoussé and Chasing : Raised motifs are crafted by hammering the metal from reverse side.

Granulation : Tiny gold or silver beads are applied onto the surface for intricate detailing.

Meenakari : The Persian term Meenakari means enamel work or decorative art. This Persian technique was later adopted by Indian craftsmen including those in Bengal. This enamel work creates an extraordinary contrast of colors.

Motifs and Symbols

Bengali goldsmithing is rich, in terms of both symbolism and cultural motifs. Each piece is imbued with meaning, often taken from nature, mythology, or religious inference.

Floral and Nature-Inspired Motifs –

Nature has a pivotal role in the design of Bengali jewelry. Floral figures like lotus, jasmine, and hibiscus represent purity, beauty, and femininity. Leaf figures and creeper designs showcase fertility and prosperity.

Religious and Mythical Symbols –

Jeweler pieces often feature religious motifs, such as:

Shankha: A symbol of purity and auspiciousness, shankha bangles are worn by married Hindu women.

Chakra and Trishul: These are vestiges of Hindu deities, engraved on pendants and rings.

Deity-Inspired Pieces are jewelry pieces with miniatures of Goddess Durga or Krishna, much sought after for religious celebrations.

Traditional Designs

Iconic Bengali jewelry pieces include:

Shankha, Pola, and Loha: The bridal bangle set symbolizes marital happiness and longevity, a uniqueness bestowed upon Bengali women. In Bengali culture, being white, the conch shell bangle or “Shankha” is auspicious, while being red, the coral or lac-resin bangle or “Pola,” is holy. One commonly wears these two bangles on the day of the wedding as symbols of a woman’s marital devotion toward her family and husband. In-laws gift the loha bangle in homage to the wife.

Saat Noli Haar: Traditional bridal wear; the saat noli haar, symbolizing elegance and opulence, has seven tiers, with each necklace larger one than the other with a similar locket adorning the center.

Sita Haar: One of the longest necklaces in her jewelry vault, the Sita Haar consists of several fine chains of gold, which are fused together with a highly decorative locket generally adorned with floral designs.

Paati Haar – It a broad and flat necklace with elaborate designs, is typically given as a wedding gift. It takes its name from the Bengali language, where “Paati” means “leaf,” and “Haar” means “necklace.” The design of this necklace is inspired by the leaves of the betel plant, which has classically been auspicious for the Bengalis.

Chik: A Bengali term for a familiar type of choker-necklace, it is crafted in gold and is usually made with an adjustable fabric-based clasp.

Bala: These thick gold bangles are in floral or animal motifs, which are a fine match with Shankha Pola. The Amritapaker Bala has a shining spiral design; they are thick and elegant bangles. Worn on festive occasions, these bangles have intricate designs on one part. Bauti is a half-cut type of gold bangle design, instead of cut in a circle.

Ratan choor – Similar to the hath phool (hand ornaments) so ardently loved in North India, the ratan choor usually boasts of a minimalist design consisting of delicate chains and floral discs that connect a bracelet to several finger rings.

Mantasha: This is a broad wristlet delicately carved with golden filigree work and a dainty ring that is anchored on one of the bride’s fingers. Usually, if the bride chooses to wear a mantasha, the ratan choor is eschewed.

Ananta: A gold armlet with intricate lacework and an adjustable chain, the Ananta is usually a precious heirloom inherited by from the mother or mother-in-law.

Mukut: This Indian-style tiara  is a sign of wealth and prosperity and sits on the bride’s crown.

Tikli and Tayra: With intricate detailing, it is essentially a pendant worn at the center of the forehead just above the eyebrows. Tikli is considered to be a symbol of femininity, beauty, and grace, and is often worn by brides on their wedding day along with the ‘Tayra’ which is an exclusive piece worn like a necklace on the front part of the forehead draped on both sides of the central parting of hair.

Kaan Bala: A fusion of the two most popular earring designs found in India, the jhumka and the chaandbali, the kaan bala is a statement gold earring embossed with fine gold details that end with gold bead danglers.

Kan Pasha: Perfectly suited for round faces, the kaan pasha is a full-bodied earring that covers up the entire ear lobe with its ornate design.

Nath: The Bengali nose pin, known as  nath is a very impressive piece of jewelry. These compelling nose rings are a symbol of a married woman. It is usually a large gold ring that is attached to a string hooked to the hair.

Current Status and Trends

Despite the ever-changing trends in the fashion, traditional jewelry of Bengal continues to keep its relevance and charm. Modern designers are bringing the old pieces into the present, adding in contemporary flair to this ever-beautiful jewelry item. Gold ornaments, less heavy, fusion designs, and the special pieces studded with gemstones are definitely winning the hearts of the younger generation. Everything from jewelry brands in Kolkata and Bengal still progresses toward innovating, yet bringing forward tradition from modern craftsmanship.

References in Popular Culture

Bengali jewelry has been prominently featured in literature, films, and art, demonstrating its cultural and societal significance.

Cinema and Television

Often, traditional jewelry finds its way into the cinematic and television scenarios depicted in Bengali films. Some of the prominent examples include Chokher Bali, Antarmahal, Goynar Baksho and Parineeta. Such films in particular extol the aesthetic grandeur of elaborate Bengali bridal jewelry. In Chokher Bali (2003), a film based on Rabindranath Tagore’s novel, jewelry is symbolic of Binodini’s frustrated desires as well as the social constraints on widows-such as her desire for a pleasurable life, free and filled with companionship, denied to her. Jewelry, especially borrowed ornaments, represent the pleasures and status denied to Binodini as a widow; access to these symbols of prosperity and beauty is possessed by Ashalata, the married woman, while Binodini is relegated to a lower status. By “borrowing” and wearing the jewelry, Binodini subtly subverts the boundaries laid down by society regarding her status as a widow. She uses the jewelry as a way to express her desires and gain recognition, even if in a fleeting move of defiance. In Goynar Baksho (2013), screened as a young widow, Rashmoni (Moushumi Chatterjee) dwells at her parents’ house like an appendage. Having lost her right to wear colored clothes, she clings to her jewelry for her only happiness.

Literature and Art

Jewelry has been a source of beauty and wealth for the writings of Bengali literary stalwarts like Rabindranath Tagore and Sarat Chandra Chattopadhyay. They featured the broad social practices that accompany this ornament. Much of such imagery, through the paintings and sculptures of women bedecked lavishly with traditional jewelry, refers to the artistic legacy of the region.

Conclusion

Bengali jewelry carries inside it the aesthetics and cultural wealth of the region. In addition to exquisite craftsmanship, sculpturesque symbolism, and timeless cultural significance, jewelry has come to represent traditions, identity, and aesthetic expression. Although this kind of jewelry possesses an antique air from the times gone by, it is now getting into modern designs and aesthetics.

 

Sources –

https://www.todaystraveller.net/west-bengals-enchanting-jewellery-heritage/#:~:text=Saath%20Noli%20Haar%2C%20a%20cherished,serves%20as%20an%20exquisite%20gift.