Khatwa applique embroidery is a fantastic example of a textile-based craft from Bihar, especially the Sitamarhi and Madhubani districts, that creatively combines needlework and drawing. Applique is a needlework crafting technique in which pieces of fabric cut into various shapes according to a pattern or theme are stitched onto a base layer of fabric. In Bihar, the term Khatwa refers to intricately embroidered textiles that are either narrative or ornamental, depending on the artist’s preference. The word ‘applique’ is a French word that means applied or put on, and describes the process of putting one layer of fabric on top of another.
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Historical Origin:
Much early Khatwa pieces were frequently quite delicate and might have even been used to decorate the Mughal emperors’ palaces. Traditionally, royalty and aristocracy used this trade to create elaborately designed canopies (shamianas) and large tents (kanats) that reflected Indian folklore for religious ceremonies, celebrations, and other events like the shikar, or hunt. Bright and vivid colors were employed, usually a bright orange or red for the base cloth and white fabric for the applique work. Both geometric and figurative elements were included into the designs. Khatwa declined during colonial times as opulent tents and canopies were no longer constructed as previously and royal support vanished.
Process:
There are two methods for creating Khatwa applique: conventional applique and reverse applique. Conventional applique involves choosing a design or subject, then having the artist sketch out the desired design on both the base fabric and the upper layer of cloth. The upper layer is then coarsely cut into the shape of the motif or pattern, leaving a large margin. After that, this margin is cut into segments, folded down, and sewn into the desired shape. Stencils are occasionally utilized when there are repeating elements in the design.
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The applique designs make extensive use of silk thread embroidery in the forms of chain and flowing stitches. The embroiderer also employs quilting, cross stitch, and crewel work as basic techniques. Either a machine or a hand is used to complete the method. Although a variety of colors can be employed, earth tones and muted hues are currently the most popular palette for Khatwa. The waste material can also be organically dyed before being used for applique.
Characteristics:
Through women’s imaginations, the revived craft method of Khatwa has developed from its original forms to become a distinctive and occasionally uncompromising art form. The craft functioned as visual storytelling media. The craft’s scope is broad; on the one hand, it features commonplace objects like stoves, cutting knives, pots, and pans in its artwork; on the other hand, it incorporates educational paintings of men and women in the nuptial chamber, which is a crucial aspect of Madhubani and Mithila art.
Applique work comes in two varieties: commercial and personal. By using their patchwork technique, the Khatwas have taken elements from the private world of religious art and introduced them to the general public. It is a must-see for art lovers and cultural explorers because of its elaborate designs, brilliant colors, and deep cultural importance.
Motifs:
This craft was first commissioned in the late 1970s by the Ford Foundation and the British High Commission in Delhi. They placed an order for a number of wall hangings that reflected their observations and thoughts about the women’s lives. The history of these early pieces suggests that the designs were being dictated by outsiders. Insofar as they requested pictures of contented people, lyrical pastorals of village life, and male children (while the women were more worried about girl children).
Mughal-era designs demonstrate the influence of arabesque geometric patterns and Persian motifs. Khatwa applique’s motifs, which include human figures, trees, flowers, animals, and birds, are influenced by Bihar’s rich flora and fauna. The corners are quarter circles, while the inner patterns are circular cutwork. With the use of vegetable colors and tonal variations, the color scheme became more subdued in order to appeal to new audiences. There is a childlike quality to the motifs.
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Elephant Motifs:
The elephant theme is the most frequently encountered of the animal motifs. The elephant, sometimes referred to as Yanai, Hathi, or Gaja, is a symbol of aristocracy, riches, intelligence, and power. Indian textiles frequently feature elephant themes, especially given the graceful animal’s noble standing in mythology and history. In Mauryan Indian history, only monarchs were allowed to keep elephants, which were seen as a sign of wealth and authority. Elephants were said to have frightened Alexander’s troops when they reached the Indian boundaries. Based on historical references discovered in India, the elephant was more than just a majestic beast.
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Motifs showcasing Everyday Objects:
In the villages, women traditionally perform the Khatwa job. The women depict their own lives, goals, and hopes using this craft as a canvas. Everyday items from their homes, such chulha (stoves), hasiya (chopping knives), and several pots and pans, are frequently drawn by rural women. The everyday routines of the villagers are also depicted for us. Khatwa adornment frequently includes tasks like farming, cleaning, and pasture maintenance. These days, the ladies have also started creating khatwas that portray contemporary topics including women’s rights, HIV/AIDS, and social ills like dowries.
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Inclusion in Pop Culture
Khatwa is also becoming more and more popular among designers who are experimenting with themes, colors, and materials, such as silks dyed with vegetables. Khatwa and designer Anavila Misra have been collaborating closely. Patch stitching has been used to embellish the brand’s lightweight draperies and outfits from her first runway collection to her most current presentation. She says, “My association with the Khatwa artisans is as old as the brand. My first ever solo exhibition in Mumbai was a collection of artwork with them based on trees and flowers. It was a beautiful showcase and furthered our association and created a continuous workflow for them. Our very first collection, Secret Life of the Forest, was inspired by them and their daily lives which revolve around wildlife—and the adventure of going to the forest for a basic need like wood. Their folklore and experience helped me develop my first-ever runway collection.”
Current Situation:
After declining during British rule, the art form saw a resurgence in the 1970s because to the backing of fashion designers like Anavila Misra and non-profit organizations like the Ford Foundation. Craft fairs, workshops, and exhibitions have all contributed to bringing Bihar’s Khatwa’s beauty and artistry to a larger national and worldwide audience. In order to ensure that Khatwa artisans maintain their livelihood while upholding the heritage, these textiles were granted a Geographical Indication (GI) certificate in 2015.
In addition to showing the everyday lives and rural settings of the artists, contemporary khatwa occasionally include depictions of societal issues, such as women’s rights and the spread of AIDS, which are frequently woven into a story. Nowadays, khatwa textiles comprise wall hangings, bags, and cushion covers in addition to sarees and blouses. Mohammed Ansari, renowned for his portrayals of traditional village life, and Rahima Devi, renowned for her proficiency in geometric designs, are two examples of the skill and commitment of people who contribute to the enduring legacy of Khatwa patchwork, upholding Bihar’s artistic traditions.
Conclusion
There is no denying Khatwa patchwork’s influence on regional craftspeople and the Bihar economy. In addition to giving talented craftspeople a means of subsistence, this traditional art form supports the region’s economic growth and cultural legacy. Bihar can continue to present its rich cultural legacy to the world and provide its craftspeople with prospects for success by promoting and conserving the art of Khatwa patchwork.