1. Introduction:
Do you know about the silk capital of India? It is a district named ‘Kancheepuram,’ which is a part of ‘Tamil Nadu.’ In India, women love Sari. Why? Because, ‘Sari’ is the traditional attire of women in India. So whenever there is a marriage or festival in Tamil Nadu women always crave ‘Kanchipuram Silk Sarees.’ But why this particular saree? It is because of their royal look, perfect weaving, and amazing artwork, which mesmerize people. These sarees not only make a person look elegant, but they also carry the cultural heritage and the legacy of artisans who mastered the art of weaving 400 years before within their threads. These Sarees are also called ‘Kanchivaram silk sarees‘ or ‘Kanchi silks.’
2. The beginning of these masterpieces:
From the early days, people were very much interested and keen on selecting their dresses. The craze for dresses made artisans weave better. People have two different tales about its origin. Some say the weavers of Kanchipuram are descendants of Sage Markandeya— a person who was instructed by God to create the first-ever piece of cloth- a metaphor used for ‘eliminating the uncultured way of living.’
Others say the craft grew under the Pallavas around the 7th-9th century, then was patronized by the Cholas and later by Krishnadeva Raya. The Cholas were great patrons of art and architecture. They laid the basic foundation for the art of weaving.
The reign of Krishnadevaraya, the king of the Vijayanagara Empire, marked the flourishing days of these masterpieces. During his reign, two groups named ‘Saligars’ and ‘Devangars’ migrated from Andhra Pradesh and settled in Kanchipuram. These groups started showing their expertise in silk weaving. As a result, new patterns and new techniques were born.
Kancheepuram was a renowned city of India even before the origin of these silk sarees. The cotton cloth woven in Kanchipuram was already in trade with the Roman Empire. The arrival of these two groups just made the weaving industry better. The first silk saree was woven using lotus fiber by hand. The patterns used were mainly inspired by temples or nature—these patterns remain the same even nowadays. The Kanchipuram sarees were always a treat for the eyes, beginning from the early days.
3. Current Status and Global Transport:
Initially, artisans produced these sarees by hand. But after the era of industrialization, these silk sarees transitioned from hand weaving to machine weaving using power looms. This has both benefits and harm. While using machinery produces high-quality, low-cost bulk goods, it affects the people who traditionally weave the sarees. This problem is not yet solved. Similar to all the other fields, there exists a competition between humans and machines in this field too. Many people living in and around the city of Kanchipuram have weaving as their livelihood.
Recognizing the uniqueness of these silks, the Government of India gave a GI (Geographical Index) tag in the year 2005–2006. These silks are not only famous within India. Their fame has spread across the seas from the early days, and even now these silk sarees are exported to countries like the USA (the largest importer), Canada (a leading buyer), Singapore, Australia, the UAE, and so on.
4. Preparation and Motifs:
4.1. Initial stage:
Artisans have been using ‘mulberry silk’ as the main component traditionally. This makes the saree heavier, glossier, and more durable, which makes these sarees different from others. The creation of this masterpiece begins with dipping silk threads in rice water, which enhances their thickness and stiffness for a better final outcome. Then artisans follow a hallmark weaving technique—known as the ‘Korvai.’ The result of this technique helps in the seamless transition between colors and textures, which creates an almost embossed texture at junctions. This makes the saree a pleasure for the eyes. The above-mentioned ‘Korvai’ technique requires two skilled weavers to work simultaneously on the same loom, which is considered to be slightly difficult, and hence this is considered a unique skill.
4.2. Zari:
‘Zari’ is a fine thread that is woven into sarees as a part of decoration. This fine thread is made of real gold, silver, or even copper, which is the specialty of Kanchipuram silks. These threads are used for forming intricate or elaborate patterns on the silk sarees. The sari’s end part is called ‘pallu’ by the people.
4.3. Patterns:
The motifs and patterns seen on the silk sarees are woven based on nature and sculptures in the temples. In the context of nature, artisans wove Peacock, Elephant, Chakram, Yali, Winged Horse, etc. They come with rich colors. Scenes from the Ramayana and Mahabharata are also woven here.
5. In recent days:
At present, Kanchi silks are made by two bodies:
- Cooperative societies
- Private traders
Approximately 60,000 silk looms are said to be in operation in Kanchipuram. The district earns a revenue of more than 200 crores, and exports alone contribute around 3 crores. Nowadays, along with sarees, artisans also produce salwars—as people nowadays wear chudithars and salwars more than sarees. Weavers experiment with many new designs that are preferred by this generation.
5.1. Government initiatives and sustainability:
The Tamil Nadu Government has also established TIFAC, a testing unit for zari, ensuring gold and silver comply with the standards. The Department of Textiles and Handlooms of Tamil Nadu gives their best in spreading and protecting this profession. The world is shifting towards sustainability nowadays. The Kanchipuram sarees are also sustainable—they are durable, biodegradable, and made using natural fiber. These sarees are the symbol of both fashion and sustainability.
6. Pop Culture:
Nita Ambani, one of the world’s wealthiest people, was seen wearing a handwoven golden Kanchipuram silk saree at the pre-wedding of Anant and Radhika. This saree is a statement showcasing traditional Indian craftsmanship. Many costume designers collaborate with weavers to make new patterns, which become super-hits in movies, and people start to buy the same design sarees. In all weddings of Tamil Nadu, people prefer to purchase Kanchipuram silk sarees. These sarees are even displayed in global exhibitions.
Leading actresses in movies appear in scenes wearing Kanchi silks. The patterns with which they appear on the specific scenes inspire many people to buy the same designs, which ends up increasing the revenue of artisans. By showcasing Kanchi sarees in films like Ponniyin Selvan, Mahanati, and Sita Ramam, the directors reminded people of their love for the attire once again. Costume designers collaborate with Kanchi weavers to revive the ancient patterns like the annapakshi, rudraksha butta, and traditional temple borders. The rich and royalty of the saree never fade.
7. Conclusion:
True saree lovers love Kanchipuram silks. Any artist will love the patterns inscribed on it. The love these sarees receive from people will never end. People have dedicated a chamber of their heart especially for these sarees. People even acknowledge the fact that these sarees are the outcome of skilled artisans and depict cultural heritage. People who wear sarees are decreasing day by day. Yet, they are willing to preserve their tradition. The elders know that these sarees speak of tradition. So, they pass these sarees from generation to generation as a gift. Each and every saree is unique. They are the symbol of craftsmanship, cultural continuity, and emotional value. Let us give our best to preserve this art and its artisans.
References:
- https://vigyanvarta.in/adminpanel/upload_doc/VV_0625_36.pdf
- https://www.isbr.in/journals/An-Over-view-on-the-Growth-of%20Kanchipuram-Silk-Industry.pdf
- https://thesstudioonline.com/blogs/news/the-origin-and-journey-of-kanchipuram-sarees?srsltid=AfmBOor4kevAsVf2FmbHCeuxqCWLEp9DPYL4BmbfpBmKi3KfBWCZGmD9
- https://thenmozhidesigns.com/blogs/silk/a-look-into-the-current-status-of-the-kanchipuram-silk-industry?srsltid=AfmBOoou_7vgVmQPevd3s9i6PZxmGi2x4kXEGBtLMR0ZBkh5pQ-qEKOU
- https://www.financialexpress.com/business/industry-the-saree-trail-can-nita-ambanis-golden-kanchipuram-add-glitter-to-the-silk-weaving-industry-revenue-3412771/