Weaved in stories : Baluchari from Bengal

 

Introduction

Spread primarily across the districts of Birbhum and Bankura , with weaving centres extending across Medinipur and others, Baluchari reflects the true essence of Bengal tradition wrapped in nine yards. It doesn’t really confine itself to merely sarees however. It is the style of weaving , painting and embroidery that gives it its uniqueness. Baluchari is primarily silk works hence silk production techniques find a relevance here. The areas of Malda, Birbhum, Mursidabad being prime spots in the production of mulberry silk, since the ancient times makes Bengal a climatic favourable area for the spread of silk industry , at ease.

  Baluchari sareees

Source : Wikipedia

 

Origin

Baluchari is believed to have been named after the place called Baluchar , which roots it’s existence back in the areas around today’s Murshidabad. The story goes back by nearly five hundred years where speculations say that this place Baluchar might have been washed away by torrential floods. Afterwards, the weaving units were shifted to Bishnupur and Bankura, primarily revolving around Bishnupur. Hence, people of Bengal, in general tend to relate Baluchari with Bishnupur out of the brink of instance.

Baluchari designs are extensive in nature. It is studded with dense artworks depicting stories. It is such a form of art that imprints a royal story by itself when looked at. This heavy nature of its design gives or makes it unique. Although in recent times, to keep up with the latest fashion , modifications are being made. Yet, the nature of heaviness and densely crafted work still continues to bear the essence of the craft.

Motifs / Process Specifics

Illustrative scenes on the social life of a common man is a common theme of Baluchari artwork. Previously , it used to be primarily based on tales from the epics of the Ramayana and Mahabharata. With time, it shifted to the daily life of the local and royal families. Geometrical pattern studded embroidery finds a place in the modern day designs. From cocoons dipped in hot boiling water, drawing the finest of filaments , the raw silk yarn is softened then put under process of design embroidery and story building. It is a complicated process needless to say, but weavers and villagers have been successfully doing the same for generations in the most fascinating way possible. There are few types of Baluchari that entails gold and silver threading which is finely done by the women folk of the area as a passed down profession across generations. It’s no less a treat for the eyes. The pallu is the main region of attraction where the heavy work revolves around.

A decade post Independence, saw a shift of weavers and craftsmen to Bishnupur to base their work out of the area. Jacquard looms were exquisitely set up for the same reason. It requires minimum two hands and around ten working days of daily eight hours of constant hard work to produce this masterpiece hence its high price range goes absolutely justified in the plethora of handloom products.

Challenges faced

These days, machines have replaced traditional looms to make the lives of artisans simpler. It can manage bulk orders in less time. However, this comes in no comparison to the hand crafted tire work that is absolutely original. But toil and struggle sees it take a gradual back seat. Artificial or machine made motifs are believed to lack the essence of the raw hand woven artistry. Attempts are being made so that proper compensation can be made to the weavers and encourage them to focus on originality more within the periphery of modernisation.

Men at weaving work

Source : Self Clicked at Bishnupur workshop

Cultural importance / contemporary relevance

Intricate designs have a basis of narrative story telling. The artistic grandeur of Bengal’s artisans are also much prominent. Often it is passed down the hierarchy as an heirloom possession. A craft that dates back in history to times of Murshid Khuli Khan , is indeed a work of immense pride. The vibrance and brilliance in the craft shows the immense pride of cultural Bengal. This truly reflects the history and tradition of the state.

Saree making in progress

Source : Self Clicked at Bisnupur workshop

The Baluchari saree received the GI tag in 2012. This was awarded for the uniqueness it has in terms of motifs, patterns and design. Although changes have been incorporated to include geometrical patterns and such other motifs other than the traditional ones, yet experts say they would always love to keep the essence of the heavy artwork embedded in the sarees intact.

The stories or patterns might alter but not the course of its original nature of type. This needs a lot of people and study to make sure what innovation is made is high upto the standards of integrity it holds.

Conclusion

Kanishka from Bishnupur is the licensed trademark for authentic Baluchari silk sarees. They are Government registered and licensed for the propagation and business of this traditional handloom art form. When people visit state emporiums, each state represents themselves with an allied nomenclature that helps people identify like Resham Silpi from Bengal flourishes in silk sarees. Similarly , this Kanishka franchise is typical to Bushnupur , excelling in Baluchari works. One gets authentic Baluchari hand crafted works here. They can even visit the artisans and witness this process, if permitted. The goal remains to take care of the silkworms which often face threats of varied nature so that the yarn produced can be of finest quality. Advents of global warming have had effects on them. This is being taken care of, especially in a manner that the craftsmanship of highest quality can be duely upheld.

References

https://www.telegraphindia.com/my-kolkata/lifestyle/how-the-bishnupur-baluchari-sari-weaving-tradition-survived-bengals-tumultuous-history/cid/1855543

https://www.perniaspopupshop.com/encyclopedia/west-bengal/baluchari?srsltid=AfmBOooFVhPB7ou0Sr65Fbg7MZdq548geNBsVus1_NS2rOSTpd5zxsBD

https://www.aevum.in/blogs/news/weavers-of-bishnupur?srsltid=AfmBOoqJzntnr2pf7N9N0rA50MlhQtvRDSZSiFb1XpPZPwPB7Dvb24OD

https://www.parinita.co.in/pages/baluchari?srsltid=AfmBOopUaDf4uaVbeyOSoruUy5K4O5BUqpDXcSUFKWXBvC2Q6bpIMY2u

https://www.wbkvib.org.in/index.php/khadi-d/baluchari-complex

https://nabannamela.com/craft_tal

es/bengals-baluchari-and-swarnachari/