Introduction
Maharashtra and Nauvari saree have become so synonymous with the time that we think the saree not only originated here but also is limited to this region only. However, Nauvari is not limited to Maharashtra, instead women in entire South India wear it with different variations. In Tamil Nadu, the Madisar style of Nauvari is worn by Brahmins. Here Nauvari is associated with religious and ceremonial purity. Naturally, it is famous during weddings and festivals. In Andhra Pradesh and Karnataka, the Nauvari saree is worn with slight variations in the pallu, though the basic principles of draping remain the same. Thus Nauvari saree is part of the lifestyles and customs of various Indian communities.
In Maharashtra, the Nauvari saree became popular during the Maratha period when Marathas ruled over most of Deccan(17th-19th century). Women found it comfortable as it gave them freedom of movement for household chores or to join men on the battlefield. During the rule of Chhatrapati Shivaji, women were active in warfare and administrative works. It is believed that Jijabai, Shivaji’s mother and Rani Tarabai used to prefer wearing Nauvari while riding horses and using weapons.
Many women were allowed to practice sword fighting, horse riding and archery during the Maratha rule. According to some historical records, women were specifically assigned the work of helping male warriors during combats. The Nauvari saree allowed them comfort and ease of movement and helped them challenge the stereotype of women being fit for household roles only. Nauvari symbolized femininity with power. The famous Queen of Jhansi Laxmibai, who faught in the revolution of 1857 is shown wearing Nauvari in portraits and statues symbolizing feminine power. Nauvari has become the most popular attire for women in Maharashtra and stands as a symbol of gender equality.
Naming the Saree
The term ‘Nauvari‘ Comes from the Marathi words ‘Nau‘ (nine) and ‘Vari’ (yards), for its length. Kashta or Lugade saree are two famous ways of drapping Nauvari. In ‘Kashta‘ style Nauvari is drapped in similar way to a dhoti. Here cotton sarees are worn without a petticoat or the underskirt which is a necessity in other regular styles of drapping saree.
Cultural significance
Unlike other saree draping styles, in Nauvari pleats are tucked at the back and a pallu is draped across the shoulder. Nauvari is a popular attire during religious ceremonies, weddings, and festivals, such as Gudi Padwa, Ganeshotsav (Ganesh Chaturthi), Champa Shashti, and Narali Poornima, as a symbol of strength, challenging the notion that sarees are restrictive.
In Maharashtrian weddings, Nauvari saree in vibrant and bright colours, with broad borders often decorated with golden thread is kind of compulsory costume for brides.
Fabric and Motifs
Handmade sarees by local weavers who include intricate patterns and designs in borders and pallu, are famous for their delicate art. In paithan, weavers spend months crafting a silk paithani Nauvari featuring scenes from nature, religious characters, and other maharashtrian cultural aspects. Most popualr colors used in paithani nauvari are red, green, purple, yellow and gold. Zari work on pallu and border enhances the beauty of the saree. Original gold and silver threads are also woven to give original hue to the splendor and grandeur of the saree. No wonders, some of these sarees are as expensive as 7-8 lakhs per piece. These sarees can stay as good as new for years due to original threads and expensive raw material. Not to forget all the hard work of craftsmen, who spend days and nights trying to make each piece unique and memorable.
Originally nauvari was woven in cotton; however silk also became a popular raw material for it that added to the glamour. Silk is also more comfortable and breathable during the hotter months. Thus nauvari not only a festive wear but also a daily wear with grandeur displaying Maharashtrian pride and heritage.
Accessories
Accessories such as payal, nath, necklace, baju bandh, kamarbandh, mangtika, earings, jhumka, gajra are part of Indian clothing. Nauvari saree with these accessories is considered incomplete. On festive occasions women make sure that Nauvari is complemented with at least gajra, nath, necklace, earrings and kamarbadh.
Nauvari Saree Draping Styles
Nauvari Saree Draping Styles
The versatile nature of Nauvari is not limited to being different from other styles of draping saree. Within Nauvari also there are different styles of Nauvari specially how the pallu is left on the shoulder, or how much of midriff is visible. In some part it is dependent on caste. Brahmins prefer to keep the front part of pallu longer, hiding the midriff completely, Khastriyas keep it little neater with a kamarbandh. The working class women specially fishing community prefer to keep the saree little below knee level and pallu tightly secured. It is more conducive for their work where they have move around wetter surface and deal with water a lot. All these styles are clubbed under two headings traditional and Koli. There is no need to wear a petticoat or underskirt with Nauvari as it is worn like a man’s dhoti with a pallu to cover the upper half body. In Koli style saree is divided into two sections. One part is wrapped around the waist and the other part covers the upper body.
Conclusion
Nauvari saree holds has become an integral part of the Marathi culture. Though it became popular during Martha rule, it continued to remain popular among Maharashtrians even after decline of the empire. No celebration in Maharashtra such as Gudi Padwa, Ganesh Chaturthi or Navratri could feel complete without nauvari. The Lavani dancers in the 18th century made Nauvari more popular.
Nauvari sarees continue to be popular in modern culture. The contemporary designers also take extra care to blend traditional elements of nauvari with modern touch. Regardless of how it originated and flourished, nauvari has a timeless appeal and continue to be part of Maharashtrian tradition.
References
- https://soojidaara.in/blogs/news/nauvari-silk-sarees-the-traditional-maharashtrian-legacy?srsltid=AfmBOop7hXgknowngMTaFGOlvuh3Ul_qmYLAc01LFcZ_rbSZzKkRXeye
- https://houseofhind.com/blogs/9-yard-saree/what-is-9-yard-saree?srsltid=AfmBOoqF_jRe_etsj7YaXqXgooWmKhwLXFODcS9RCqDXGDvhOxNwImcn
- https://www.timesnownews.com/lifestyle/fashion/trends/history-and-significance-of-the-timeless-nauvari-saree-article-103778513
- https://readiprintfashions.wordpress.com/2017/11/27/the-history-and-culture-of-adorning-the-nauvari-saree/