THE CONCH CRONICLES: FROM OCEAN TO ORNAMENTS

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Shell crafts need a variety of raw materials, such as cleaned and processed seashells, plastic tubes, wires, and plates, along with cardboards, pastes, mirrors, beads, and reed mats. Among these, seashell is a highly significant raw resource. The hard exterior protective layer that marine aquatic organisms, such as snails, clams, oysters, and more, have is called a seashell. These seashells are stratified and composed of calcium carbonate with just 2% protein. The biological detritus left behind by the tides and waves along coastal strandlines is known as shore drift, and this is where seashells are usually found. Turbinella pyrum, also called the holy shankha, is supposed to hold sacred shells that belong to the god Vishnu.

  Turbinella pyrum, (source: Google)

The term “conch” refers to any kind of shell that is collected from the sea, irrespective of size. In every faith, this has significant symbolic meaning. “Shakha” is usually used to describe a white conch shell bangle in West Bengal. Traditionally, married women, especially those from the Bengali culture, wear the Shakha, which is formed using the conch shell used in the Indian Ocean. The “Pola”, a red coral bracelet, is worn with it separately. Both together are auspicious and sacred symbols that represent a woman’s marital status. A few regions in West Bengal, Orissa, and Bangladesh have seen the majority of the conch shell handicraft and industry, which ignores the localisation idea of commerce and trade. Among these districts are Bankura, East Midnapore, West Midnapore, Burdwan, Nadia, and Kolkata in West Bengal.

Purpose

There are two primary uses for conch shells in West Bengal. The actual conch is blown to ward off evil spirits, to start something fresh and auspicious, to complete a puja procedure or ceremony, and occasionally to commemorate successes. Second, married women wear “shakha”, or conch bangles, especially in this region. However, the Bengali conch craft is not limited to doing these fundamental tasks; rather, it encompasses a wider range of products.

Conch Bangles,
      (source: Instamart)

History

Sea snails, whether medium or large, are commonly known as conch. They are aquatic slugs or snails, rather, who belong to the family of Strombidae. Similarly, the  sacred Turbinells Shankha belongs to Turbinellidae family. popularly known as conch. Even the Triton’s trumpet belonging to Charoniidae may look like a horn but also known as conch.

Mythologically speaking, Lord Visnu is described with four attributes, Shankha (conch shells), Sudarshan Chakra (discus), Kaumodaki gada (mace) and Padma (lotus). The Harivamsa Purana states that Panchayanya Shankha was possessed by Lord Krishna. In the pitiless depths of the Prabhasa Ocean, a sea monster known as Shankhasur resided in the maze of a gigantic conch shell. He kidnapped Sandipani’s son, Lord Krishna’s preceptor. Regarding “guru dakshina,” or the preceptor’s fee, Lord Krishna murdered Shankhasur and retained the enormous conch shell for him. Between nine and fourteen jewels were churned up at Samudra Manthana, according to the Bhagavata and Vishnu Puranic traditions. Vishnu’s conch was one of them.

The Shankha symbol is commonly used in the two epics, the Ramayana and the Mahabharata. In the Ramayana, Rama’s younger brother Shatrughna is regarded as Shankha’s incarnation. In Mahabharat, Yudhishthira, Bhim, Arjuna, Nakul, and Sahadeva, with their conch shells named Anantavijaya, Poundra, Devdatta, Sughosha, and Manipushpaka, respectively, followed Lord Krishna’s declaration of the great battle of Kurukhetra with the blowing of the divine conch shell Panchayanya.

With excavations in the seashore of West Bengal, fragments or rather pieces of conch shells have been discovered especially in the region of  Tamluk. Archaeologists have unearthed the shells and concluded that theses assemblages were collected together and brought to the inland. They were then manufactured as shell bangles in the market which also became sacred to the Bengali culture eventually.

In West Bengal, the custom of donning a Shakha is mostly based on religious and cultural customs rather than scientific explanations. Rather than being founded on scientific ideas, it has symbolic and social meaning. The Shakha is formed from a conch shell, which has long been linked to certain scientific advantages and qualities. Conch shells have inherent resonance qualities and are made of calcium carbonate. Conch blowing during religious rites is one of the ways that the conch has been utilised to fend off evil energies since it is said to generate good vibrations in some belief systems. According to science, wearing a Shakha may therefore have a calming impact on the wearer’s body and psyche.

Procedure

The making of Shakha bangle involves multiple steps:

  1. Purchasing Conch Shells: The coastal region of the Indian Ocean is the source for the conch shells required for the production of Shakha. The size, shape, and quality of the shells are taken into consideration while choosing them.
  2. Cleaning and Preparation: After the conch shells are acquired, they undergo a comprehensive cleaning process to get rid of any contaminants or impurities. After that, they are cut to the appropriate length, usually a few inches. The conch is then divided into two parts from the middle, cut on the pyramidal top and its tail.
    Making of the Bangles (source: Google)

                                     Process of making
                                      (source: Google)
  3. Refining and moulding: the cut ends of the conch are then polished and shaped to produce uniformly smooth bangles. Their natural beauty and shape are brought about through various tools and techniques used by professional craftsmen. These pieces of equipment used by the craftsmen were mainly hammers, chisels, grinders, wax, etc. The shells are then intricately carved to develop complex patterns based on the consumer’s demand and preferences.
  4. Manufacture of the bangles: A bangle is created by joining the polished and shaped shell pieces. Typically, this is accomplished by  gently heating the shell ends and forcing them together to form a strong connection. After that, the bangle is enhanced to give it a polished appearance.

Motifs and Designs

These conch carving enthusiasts have dedicated their entire lives to adorning the shells with incredible patterns. Each shell either features amazing depictions of goddesses such as Durga, Laxmi, and Shri Krishna, or it features a whole event from an epic or mythical tale rather than a single theme. They also use the same skill to incorporate floral or decorative designs for embellishment.

  • Peepal Leaf: The leaves have been crafted to resemble the real peepal leaf, complete with intricate lines and a heart-shaped outline. They might be shown alone, in groups, or as a component of a more extensive flower arrangement. It represents the universe’s boundless potential and the circle of life. Conch shells’ carved design is a representation of defence against bad energy and negative influences.
  • Lotus: A popular carving on conch shells, the lotus motif is a revered and potent emblem in faiths such as Buddhism, Jainism, and Hinduism. It represents purity, divinity, and spiritual enlightenment.

                    Lotus Motif,
              (source: PK Sons)
  • Lily: A popular and exquisite carving on conch shells, particularly in Buddhist and Hindu art, is the lily pattern. It is frequently shown with elegant petals, curving stems, and occasionally other floral motifs like ripples in the water. It represents rebirth, heavenly favours, and spiritual purity. It is a potent emblem in religious and artistic cultures because of its associations with divinities, enlightenment, and harmony.
  • Fish: A famous and extremely meaningful pattern in conch shell carvings is the fish motif. It is found in many artistic, religious, and cultural traditions and is frequently connected to spirituality, fertility, wealth, and success. The fish, which stands for harmony and unending movement, is frequently shown swimming in circles, entwined, or in pairs.

    Fish Motif on Sankha
    (source: Google)
  • Swastik: The swastika motif has profound spiritual and fortunate significance when it is etched on conch shells. The conch’s outer surface or centre spiral is usually where the swastika is carved or embossed. To increase its holiness, lotus petals, mandala patterns, or ornamental borders are frequently placed around it.

Current Status

The lack of natural resources has severely hurt the conch shell handcraft and industry during the past few decades. But the Shankhakar community, which was endowed with a natural appreciation of craftsmanship and sculpture, was unable to be suppressed. The Shankharis, a particular group of artisans who have long practised conch shell making, are the ones who make them. They still contribute significantly to the creation of Shakha and different conch shell bangles.

Conch shells are sourced from South India by the market’s about thirty households. For decades, this family has been crafting conch shell bangles. A lack of competent labour and a paucity of raw materials have hurt their industry. About 150 households used to make conch shell bangles for the market. The majority have switched to different occupations and trades. Due to the low pay for long hours of boring labour, it is difficult to find employees. However, the popularity of alternative materials that are far less expensive than conch shells and their adaptability have made this age-old art and sculpting less popular.

Manufacture of Bangles (source: Villagesquare)

Conch shell-shaped clay trumpets, plastic bangles that seem more appealing than the originals, and other items that are far less expensive than the originals are selling well and making a good profit.

When the Indian government declared many marine species, including many molluscs and shells, endangered under the Wildlife Protection Act of 1972, it criticised both the catching of conch shells in South Indian states and the production of conch shell products, particularly in West Bengal and Orissa. However, amid intense pressure from groups like the “Shankha Shilpa Bachao Committee”, the government lifted the prohibition on Tubinella pyrum, a kind of sea snail that is frequently used as an auspicious object in several religious rites. However, the traders and employees engaged in the conch shell business and commerce suffered greatly as a result of the prohibition. They started using other materials, such as wood, clay, bamboo, and coconut shells.

Conclusion

Conch shells have profound cultural, religious, and economic importance in West Bengal. These shells have been very important in commerce, crafts, and ceremonies since prehistoric times. Conch shell bangles and other ornamental items are still made by craftspeople in areas like Bankura and Murshidabad. The conch shell sector has to contend with issues including shifting customer tastes, diminishing marine resources, and environmental concerns. For conch shells to remain relevant in West Bengal’s cultural and economic environment, sustainable harvesting methods and initiatives to maintain traditional skills are essential.

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