Roots and Threads: The Tree of Life Motif in Kantha Embroidery
“Sewn into soft, worn layers, forgotten fabric of grandmother tales –
patterns of the past, secret memories, hidden designs,
intriguing patterns in silk strands dyed in delicate dreamy shades—
embroidered story-lines in exquisite, dainty kantha-stitch.” –
Borderless, Radha Chakravarty
Embroidery in India
Embroidery is the craft that involves decorating and patching fabric primarily using metal or wooden needles to stitch different types of threads. The process can also use multiple materials, and textures like beads, and sequins, for embellishing fabrics. India is a rich abode of craftsmanship with countless practices that are borne out of traditions and practices. The crafts of each community, family or state differ from one another. They capture the nostalgia and folklore of the lands they hail from. The practices have been passed through generations that offer visualized narrations of cultural diversity and traditional heritage. The embroidery traditions of the nation stand testament to the artistic excellence which is carried by every region with their distinctive styles, reflecting their environment, history and traditional upbringings.
The Origins of Kantha
Kantha embroidery of Bengal is a centuries-old tradition, that transforms old or reused fabrics into remarkable patchwork designs. It weaves stories and folklores with its customary “running-stitch” technique, exemplifying the simplicity and ingenuity of its craftsmanship. This technique evolved from the traditional practices of the rural women of Bengal – presently the areas divided into West Bengal, Bangladesh and Odisha. This is one of the most ancient forms of Indian embroidery forms, whose origins can be traced back to the pre-Vedic age (approx. 1500 BCE).
The earliest kantha referred to the most basic, straight running-stitch kantha. Over time, Kantha has adopted various foreign motifs and influences such as the Tree of Life and the swirling cosmos. Most popularly, it presents us with continuous images from the daily life in the villages and its ceremonies. Unlike most art forms, Kantha was always an act of self-expression and spontaneity. It was never commissioned by rulers or landlords, and no pieces were ever the same. It was a craft that was practiced by women of all classes. And it was passed down from mothers to their dear daughters, in learning and dowry.
“Usually made by a homemaker from an economically disadvantaged family, the kantha represents both devotion and labor, often achieved quietly and privately during spare moments snatched from a long day of domestic duties. This labor of love was an outlet for creativity and recreation for the amateur artist who never attended art school. However, there is nothing amateurish about the artwork that was produced, often as a gift for a loved one, just as in the West, knitting socks or a sweater or muffler can be considered an act of love. The kantha communicates this love as it envelopes you during the embrace of sleep, a constant physical reminder of sweet memories that linger for years.” – Embroidered Dreams, Pradipaditya Pal
How Geography Influences the Motifs
The Kantha was born in the fertile alluvial plains of Bengal, which is reflected in the muffled tones of the fabrics, only contrasted by the bright flora and fauna motifs that offer glimpses of life in the muddy terrains. Most commonly occurring kanthas represent bright black, red, and yellow motifs, strewed against brown, pink, and blue backdrops. Kantha is almost always a deeply personal art form, like a diary written in thread, where each stitch holds a memory, which then is converted to a story.
The Tree of Life
The Tree of Life is a universal motif that appears in diverse traditions across the globe. The motif holds profound significance, embodying themes of continuity, abundance, and creation. The Tree of Life, is seen in various historical pieces, and is believed to have evolved from folk and indigenous traditions that revered trees as the sacred symbols of life, fertility and the interconnectedness of the cosmos.
There is an ongoing argument about the origins of the motif and how it reached Kantha. The Tree of Life is a prominent motif used in Islamic art and architecture, hailing from Persia. There, stylised trees were frequently depicted as the symbols of abundance, creation, and infinity – similar to Kantha. The motif holds ancient roots, appearing in civilisations spanning Egypt, Mesopotamia, and the Indus Valley. The concept of this motif has evolved over the centuries, through various religious and artistic traditions.
History of The Motif: How it Found its Way to Bengal
In early Mesopotamian art, the Tree of Life was depicted as a sacred tree guarded by divine beings, symbolizing the axis mundi—the connection between heaven, earth, and the underworld. In Egyptian art, it represented eternal life and the journey of the soul, often depicted in tomb paintings. Similarly, in Hindu, Buddhist, and Jain traditions, the Tree of Life is associated with enlightenment, knowledge, and cosmic balance, as seen in the Bodhi tree under which the Buddha attained enlightenment.
Islamic art also played a crucial role in shaping the Tree of Life motif, particularly during the Mughal period. The motif appears frequently in Persian miniature paintings, carpets, and architectural elements, characterized by highly stylized floral and geometric patterns. Mughal artisans introduced refined versions of the Tree of Life into South Asian art and textiles, influencing Kantha embroidery through trade and cultural exchange. The Mughal Bagh (garden) designs, inspired by Persian paradise gardens, often featured the Tree of Life as a central element, reinforcing its association with prosperity and divine grace. As Islamic and indigenous artistic traditions intermingled in Bengal, the motif was adapted into Kantha embroidery.
How Kantha Visualised the Motif
Traditionally, women used to embroider personal and communal tales onto the Kantha textiles, making them visual narratives that were passed down through generations. Dowry textiles, ritual cloths, and sacred coverings often featured the Tree of Life, symbolizing blessings for prosperity, longevity, and familial harmony. The motif’s presence in Kantha reflects a fusion of local beliefs and broader artistic influences. This synthesis created a unique interpretation of the Tree of Life that is distinctly Bengali yet globally resonant.
The Tree of Life in Kantha is highly stylised and varies in execution – within communities and individuals. This may include floral variations, figurative elements and abstract motifs and patterns. The foliage designs are common in Kantha, but no two Kantha designs are the same. The foliage is highly dependent on the artisan’s immediate environment and creativity. Some representations feature lush, abundant foliage with carefully detailed leaves, while others adopt a more stylised approach, using simple stitches to capture the essence of the motif. The Tree is embroidered with abundant floral designs featuring hibiscus, lotus, or mango flowers, each carrying its significant symbolism. Many Kantha pieces incorporate birds like peacocks, parrots, along with animals like deers, elephants, and fish. Some Tree of Life representations might also include humans, interacting with their surroundings. The trunks and branches may follow a geometric pattern or an arabesque flow organically in curved forms. Certain depictions may appear in symmetrical arrangements, while others might appear to be free-flowing – mirroring nature’s unpredictability.
Contemporary Relevance
With the rise of sustainable and hand made textiles in global fashion, Kantha embroidery, especially pieces featuring the Tree of Life, has gained international recognition. Designers incorporate the motif into scarves, sarees, wall hangings, and home décor items, blending traditional craftsmanship with modern aesthetics. Moreover, the Tree of Life continues to be a powerful metaphor for environmental awareness, reinforcing themes of conservation and sustainable living.
From museum collections to luxury fashion brands, Kantha embroidery featuring the motif is celebrated for its exquisite detailing and meaningful storytelling. Many international exhibitions and craft fairs now showcase Kantha artisans and their interpretations of the Tree of Life, allowing this age-old motif to transcend geographical and cultural boundaries. Thus, the Tree of Life motif is a testament to the resilience and creativity of Bengali artisans, ensuring that their stories and cultural identity are preserved through each stitch woven into these beautiful textiles.
Kantha embroidery, once a humble domestic craft, has evolved into a powerful cultural symbol in pop culture, seamlessly blending tradition with modernity. In fashion, designers like Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Anamika Khanna have reimagined Kantha in couture, while global brands promoting slow fashion integrate Kantha textiles into their collections. Bollywood films such as *Parineeta* (2005) and *Bulbbul* (2020) showcase Bengal’s textile heritage, subtly featuring Kantha in costume design, while international documentaries and art films highlight its sustainable craftsmanship. Literature and visual arts have also embraced Kantha, with authors like Chitra Banerjee Divakaruni referencing its narrative-rich embroidery and contemporary artists incorporating its motifs into textile-based storytelling. Performance arts and folk music celebrate Kantha as a symbol of resilience, with embroidered fabrics playing a role in theatrical and dance productions. Meanwhile, the rise of social media has amplified Kantha’s global appeal, with influencers and sustainable fashion advocates showcasing upcycled Kantha jackets, quilts, and accessories. In home décor, Kantha textiles have become synonymous with artisanal elegance, gracing minimalist and bohemian interiors alike. Once rooted in repurposing worn fabrics into narrative art, Kantha has now become a global phenomenon, proving that heritage crafts can remain relevant in an ever-changing world.
In conclusion, the Tree of Life motif on Kantha textiles is a powerful symbol that connects tradition with contemporary expression, embodying the hopes and dreams of those who craft it while fostering a sense of belonging within their cultural narrative.
