The Gates of Delhi: Guardians of a Royal Capital

The architecture of the city of Delhi owes primarily to the patronage of the Mughal Empire, one of its most creative and richest periods. From Babur to Aurangzeb, leaders utilized architecture to assert authority and legitimize the dynasty. In 1639, Shah Jahan embarked on his most ambitious undertaking—the construction of a new city in Delhi, named Shahjahanabad. Delhi, referred to as “Dar-ul Mulk,” or the seat of government, held great significance for Mughals even before Shah Jahan declared it the imperial capital. A place of pilgrimage, it was one of the most important sites in the subcontinent for pious Muslims.

Historical origin

Shahjahanabad was a labyrinth of lanes and bylanes, where lives intersected in a dance for space as mentioned in Bernier’s account. The bazaars played a crucial role in showcasing power and authority for the Mughals, supporting diverse classes of artisans, craftsmen, and merchants in their livelihoods. The emperor regularly made appearances in the city, leading grand processions that commanded awe and attention.

This seventh incarnation of Delhi was guarded by about 13 mighty gates, of which only 5 remain as historical artefacts today. Each of these gates was connected by a 6km long wall which enclosed the main city; they are said to have been named after the cities they led to, thus we have the surviving Lahori Gate, Ajmeri Gate, Kashmere Gate, Delhi Gate, Turkman Gate (this one was named after the Sufi saint Hazrat Shah Turkman Bayabani who died in 1240) among others. In his account Waqiaat-e-Darul Hukumat Dehli, Bashiruddin Ahmad Dehlvi described the walls as seemingly talking to the skies. According to Safvi, the gates themselves also tell important stories of economic conditions and culture of the time because the gates were the markers of important trade routes.

Image Source: Lahori Gate via sufianart

Lahori Gate

The Lahori Gate, according to Rana Safvi, was the most frequently used gate of the entire fort and in keeping with the characteristic Shahjahani architecture, offered a clear view from the Fatehpuri Mosque till the Diwan-e Aam. The largest and richest market, extending from the Lahori gate to the Fatehpuri mosque, was constructed in 1650 by Jahanara Begum. This street, later named Chandni Chowk, was 40 yards wide and 1520 yards long, featuring 1560 shops and porticos.

The importance of the Lahori Gate is also reflected in the later use by the British who, in fact, renamed it Victoria Gate to signify their control. Following the Revolt of 1857, the quarters here were inhabited by the British army till the time of Independence, after which they were abandoned.

Image Source: Kashmere Gate via News18

Kashmere Gate

The Kashmere Gate or Kashmiri Darwaza, once an important entry point on the road to Kashmir, is more popularly known for its momentous role in the revolt when it was taken by the sepoys, who also used the nearby St. James cemetery as a meeting ground. It was heavily bombarded by the British in September 1857, after about four months of siege; it now bears extensive damage as a testimony to the beginnings of Indian nationalism.

Image Source: Delhi Gate via News18

Delhi Gate

The Dilli Darwaza or now Delhi Gate is located in present-day Mehrauli; it was also known as the Akbarabad Darwaza because it faced Agra and was renamed the Alexandra Gate by the British. This gate was used by the emperor and his court to access the Jama Masjid for prayer.

According to Safvi, the two elephants that are now part of the gateway were later additions by Lord Curzon in 1903, as the original statues built by Shah Jahan were destroyed by Aurangzeb in keeping with the prohibitions on animate depictions in Islam.

Image Source: Ajmeri Gate via News18

Ajmeri Gate

The Ajmeri Gate is located near the present-day New Delhi Railway Station, but it was once prominently used by traders and travellers heading off to Rajasthan. Just like the Kashmere Gate, it was also a site of battle during the 1857 revolt. The Gate is now surrounded by the urban chaos contributed by the railway line as well as nearby commercial and residential complexes.

Image Source: Turkman Gate via News18

Turkman Gate

Turkman Darwaza acquired its name from the dargah of Hazrat Shamsul Arifeen Bayabani, popularly known as Shah Turkman, who is said to have accompanied Qutbuddin Aibak into the Indian subcontinent. The real notoriety of Turkman Gate comes from the time of the Emergency (1975-77), when the surrounding area witnessed brutal riots and demolition drives at the hands of Sanjay Gandhi during his programme of Delhi’s beautification.

In Popular Memory

Eshan Sharma, founder of Karwaan, reflected, “These Gates without the context of the city have nothing to attract the audience. When you tell the story — that these were the gates that people used to come into the city and to leave it, that’s when it makes sense. Unfortunately, this is absent in our stories of Delhi,” he says. According to Rashmi Singh, much of the deterioration of these Gates also has to do with the lack of upkeep for lesser-known monuments. Recent policies of the Ministry of Culture, however, have announced measures to restore the heritage of the gate for tourists and history enthusiasts. The Ministry, along with the ASI, plans to install benches, ramps, tactile pathways and new signage.

Much of the original Shahjahanabad has been lost to the passage of time and in the tumultuous history of India’s colonial past and independence movement. Some relics such as the Lal Qila or the streets of Chandni Chowk have been reclaimed as national relics of a new age or re-absorbed into a developing urban environment. Yet, the once-traversed gates of Delhi stand as quiet reminders of a forgotten city that lies just beneath this one; these gates and their architecture also continue to inspire awe even as the neighbourhood around them constantly evolves in the modern age.

The historian R.V. Smith once quoted a popular saying in his article in The Hindu, which goes as follows, “Delhi had many gates of entry but none for departure” revealing the open and cosmopolitan nature of Delhi’s urban and historic culture. As an emblematic royal capital, it reflects many remnants of the mighty fortress it once hosted and the impenetrable gates that defined its stretch.