Changpas and Their Nomadic Shelters: The Rebo of Ladakh

Many people driven by wanderlust have, at least once, dreamt of living in tents amidst the breathtaking beauty of Ladakh and stargazing at night. It sounds exciting and fun, a perfect detour from the hustle culture of the cities. But could you imagine living in tents in a remote corner of Ladakh, where winter temperatures can drop to a bone-chilling -40°C, and doing so permanently? It’s a thought that might make even the most Khanabadosh among us hesitate.  Yet, to our surprise, there exists a remarkable community that has made these tents their permanent home in the barren, secluded land of Ladakh. They are none other than the Changpas!

The Changpas of Ladakh, a semi- nomadic pastoralist community residing in the high- altitude cold desert region of eastern Ladakh, are deeply attuned to their natural environment and spiritual beliefs. They are divided into four main tribes: the Kharnakpas, Rupshupas, Korzokpas, and Anghoams. These tribes are further subdivided into fourteen groups, each incorporating an average of 130 families. Each tribe moves within its specified grazing area. Their tents, known as Rebos, are not just shelters but also the cultural legacy that represent their way of life.

Portrait of a woman from Changpa nomads in her rebo, Tso Moriri, Ladakh. (Image Courtesy: alamy)

The Rebo: The Pragmatic shelter for Nomadic life

The nomads’ tents (Rebos), crafted from woven yak hair cloth, are designed to provide excellent protection against the harsh elements of wind and snow. Despite their durability, the temperature inside the tent drops to match the freezing conditions outside once the fire goes out at night. Located at a towering altitude, the Changthang region of Ladakh experiences high exposure to UV radiation from the sun. During the extremely cold winters, when temperatures regularly plummet, the sun plays an instrumental role in moderating the daytime chill. Its warmth permeates the tent, making it more comfortable for the nomads and easing the shepherds’ daily treks. The tents are also highly water-resistant, allowing rain to flow off their surface without a single drop entering inside. The Rebo also features an opening in the roof to allow the chimney to vent. The tent is reinforced by stone walls for extra layer of stability. These features make the tents a crucial adaptation for surviving the extreme environment of Ladakh.

Tracing the Roots

The Rebos, or traditional yak wool tents of the Changpas, have their origins profoundly rooted in the nomadic lifestyle of this pastoralist community in Ladakh. The design of the Rebo reflects centuries of adaptation to the high-altitude environment, with its conical shape providing stability against fast blowing winds. The concept of the rebo likely evolved from the pragmatic needs of the Changpas, who traverse vast territories with their livestock, requiring shelters that are lightweight, easy to assemble, and resilient to extreme weather. Over time, the Rebo has become not only a functional shelter but also a symbol of the Changpa identity, reflecting their deep connection to nature and sustainable living practices.

Changpa’s shelter (Rebo), Ladakh. (Image Courtesy: flickr)

The Art of Weaving the Rebo: Materials, Process, and Measurements

Weaving and its associated tasks are central to the lives of the Changpa tribes, involving men, women, and even children. Yak hair or wool, a natural fiber is used to create various items including Rebos, namboos, floor coverings, caps, socks, saddles, bags, and blankets. However, the weaving of Rebos is exclusively done by men using a fixed heddle loom. Crafting a single Rebo is a labor-intensive process that takes at least two men an entire year.

The Rebo is crafted from yak hair, called Sitpa, which grows on the lower part of the yak’s body near its legs and hands. Some Rebos are made from a mixture of Sitpa and yak wool (known as Khullu), with the wool growing on the upper part of the yak which is predominantly in dark shades like brown, charcoal, umber, sepia, and mocha. It is sheared during the summer when it naturally rises above the yak’s skin, no longer serving as a winter coat. Sitpa is rough, while Khullu is smoother. Pure yak hair is preferred for better quality, but when there is a shortage of Sitpa, a combination of both materials is used. This process begins with a ceremonial ritual, and the fleece is removed in sections to help the animals acclimate to the changing climate. (Konchok 2024)

Yaks in the Changthang region of Ladakh. (Image Courtesy: ladakh tourism)

The process begins with Demnyuk, a pair of sticks used to clean the yak hair and wool. Yak hair is used as the warp (Gyu), while yak wool is used as the weft (Spun). The yarn is spun using a small wooden tool called a Vgha (spindle). For weaving a Rebo, approximately 16 thu (a unit based on the distance from the fingertip to the elbow) is required, measuring about 6 to 8 meters in length. This length is divided into two panels, or Nambas. A complete Rebo consists of 80 Nambas, with 40 for each side of the tent. Tough woven ropes braided from yak hair are sewn into the fabric at specific points to support the tent’s slanted walls. The crafting of a Rebo, therefore, requires meticulous craftmanship and patience on the part of male Changpas.

Changpa men crafting a Rebo, Ladakh (Image Courtesy: The Textile Atlas)

Types of Rebos

There are two types of Rebos: Tsurig and Balwa. The name “Balwa” originates from its frog-like appearance, as the word for frog in the local language is Balwa. The Tsurig tent is simpler in design and is supported by 11 wooden pillars. In contrast, the Balwa tent is considered more advanced and requires 13 wooden pillars for its structure. It is often referred to as “Thok Thupkan,” meaning “protector against dangerous lightning,” highlighting its superior ability to shield against harsh weather conditions. (Konchok 2024)

Organization of the Space

Inside every Rebo lies a structured space governed by traditions, superstitions, and gender-based rules. The tent is segregated into two sections by the central stove which provides warmth. The doors of all Rebos are always oriented towards the sunrise. The side facing the sunrise is conventionally designated for women, where food is stored, cooking is done, and utensils are kept. Over time, this side of the Rebo tends to age faster due to prolonged exposure to sunlight. In contrast, the sunset-facing side is reserved for men and guests, providing a distinct division of space for seating and storing saddles and riding gear within the tent. While men can freely move between both sides, women rarely cross into the male-dominated section. Despite these divisions, the Rebo serves as the epicentre of the Changpa family.

Inside the Changpa tent (Rebo), Ladakh. (Image Courtesy: Teh Han Lin)

Symbolic motifs: The Artistic Essence of Rebos

• Geometric Patterns

Design and Pragmatic Significance

Rebos are known for their geometric designs, which are sometimes woven or sewn directly into the cloth. Common themes include diamonds, zigzags, straight lines, and triangles made from yak or sheep wool in neutral tones such as black, white, and grey. These subtle patterns are often found on the tent’s seams, edges, or decorative panels, which are highly utilitarian, requiring little maintenance, and are resistant to wear and tear. Mostly, all the motifs or designs are featured in decorative cloth panels, prayer flags, or small stitched fabrics hung in or around the Rebo, while the outside base appearance of Rebo remains plain and simple.

Prayer Flags hung around Rebos featuring Buddhist symbols, Ladakh. (Image Courtesy: The Textile Atlas)

Symbolic Meaning

These patterns have pragmatic value since they contribute to the Rebo’s strength and durability. For example, zigzag stitching supports seams, reducing damage from Ladakh’s fast blowing winds and severe circumstances. Beyond practicality, the designs have rich symbolic value, expressing the Changpas’ relationship to nature. The repeated designs represent order and balance, reflecting the harmony between their nomadic existence and the natural world. Furthermore, some patterns may be influenced by Buddhist mandalas that signify continuity and connectivity, which are consistent with the theology of Tibetan Buddhism.

Cloth panel featuring different motifs including geometric patterns, hanging inside the Rebo of Changpa nomads, Tso Moriri, Ladakh. (Image Courtesy: alamy)

• Endless Knots (Shrivatsa)

In addition to geometric patterns, Rebos may incorporate auspicious Buddhist motifs, such as the “Endless Knots” (Shrivatsa), lotus flowers, or other elements from the Eight Auspicious Symbols (Ashtamangala).

Design and Craftmanship 

Known in Sanskrit as “Shrivatsa,” this intricate design, with no clear beginning or end, symbolizes eternity, interconnectedness, and the cyclical nature of existence. Its presence on the reibos reflects the Changpas’ strong Buddhist faith and their deep integration of spirituality into daily life. Positioned strategically—often on the entrance flaps or central panels—the design is both eye-catching and spiritually significant, symbolizing protection and good fortune.

Symbolic Meaning

The Endless Knot embodies the interconnectedness of all living beings and phenomena. For the Changpas, who live a nomadic life intricately tied to nature, this motif serves as a constant reminder of their reliance on harmony between humans, animals, and the environment, emphasizing their responsibility to maintain balance within their ecosystem. Reflecting the Buddhist principle of Samsara—the endless cycle of birth, death, and rebirth—the Endless Knot reinforces the Changpas’ spiritual acceptance of life’s impermanence and continuity. By incorporating this motif into their tents, they express their alignment with core Buddhist teachings. In Tibetan Buddhist philosophy, the Endless Knot represents the union of wisdom (Prajna) and compassion (Karuna). This symbolic harmony resonates with the Changpas’ ethical principles and their mindful interactions within their community and with nature.

The motif of Endless Knots. (Image Courtesy: Jaitly, J. and Sahai, K. (2000). Crafts of Jammu, Kashmir & Ladakh. New Delhi: Mapin Publishing, p. (167)

The Changpas’ use of the Endless Knot reflects their worldview, deeply rooted in Tibetan Buddhist principles. The harsh terrain of Ladakh demands a way of life built on interdependence, resilience, and spiritual grounding. By transforming their tents into sacred spaces, the Changpas highlight the role of art as an expression of spirituality and cultural identity. Being ardent followers of Tibetan Buddhism, they incorporate these motifs as an extension of their spiritual beliefs into their everyday lives. Additionally, these symbols signify the interdependence of humanity and nature, aligning with the Changpas’ sustainable way of life.

Balancing Tradition with Modern Alternatives

The Rebos of the Changpas are more than just shelters, as they are a profound expression of the community’s cultural identity, resilience, and harmony with their environment. The rudimentary principles of nomadism, entrenched in self-sufficiency and autonomy, have been increasingly challenged since Ladakh’s exposure to tourism began in the 1970s when it opened its doors to the outside world. As today, the increasing number of visitors to Ladakh seek to experience the nomadic lifestyle, the Rebo has become a symbol of cultural heritage showcased to outsiders. However, the demands of tourism and exposure to modern conveniences have also led to a decline in the practical use of Rebos, as many Changpas now favor canvas tents or prefabricated huts for their convenience, durability, and better insulation from harsh weather conditions. Preserving the legacy of the Rebo is crucial not only for understanding the Changpas’ way of life but also for honoring the rich cultural heritage of Ladakh.

References

• Anon, (n.d.). Changpa – The North People! [online] Available at: https://gaatha.com/changpa-weaving-tradition/[Accessed 13 Jan. 2025].
• Konchok, S. (2024). THE TRADITIONAL NOMADIC TENT OF THE CHANGPA TRIBE. [online] We are KAL Available at: https://www.wearekal.com/blogs/news/the-traditional-nomadic-tent-of-the-changpa-tribe [Accessed 13 Jan. 2025].
• ladakhtourism (2021). Changthang – Changpa Tribe and The Wildlife Sanctuary – Ladakh. [online] Ladakh. Available at: https://www.ladakh-tourism.net/blog/changthang/[Accessed 13 Jan. 2025].